Technical Pinion seal leaking....again

Well I’m going to respectfully disagree but as long as you have no troubles doing it that way then good! I personally will not reuse a pinion nut either, I set them up with the old one then use a new one for the final ***embly. I just did a Dana 80 differential an torqued the pinion nut to 450 lb/ft laying on my back in the gravel so I am familiar with the procedure.


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Well. I have it all apart and am talking a break. It really looks good. Pinion and ring look great. Pics to follow. The pilot shaft at the end looks great. Even the taper bearings( Timken ) and races look and feel great. They are being replaced anyway. It did have the crush spacer so for the heck of it I tried to run the nut down tighter and my impact would just start to crush it if I let it hammer. At least I know my impact ( a good Ingersoll) will do the job for the solid spacer and shims. The Benda seal is much sturdier looking and it matched right up to the wear marks on the Yoke so the speedi-sleeve should give it a good place to seal. Speedi-sleeve is already installed. All the RTV that someone mentioned was done due to them reusing the O ring, which was nicked last time, to make sure it was sealed. There was a shim there so thats good.
I do have New Timken bearings and races coming. I'm still on the fence about the pilot bearing. It looks and feels good but when I place the Pinion in there and feel by hand I 'think' I feel a little up and down play.
OH!!!! Thanks to the guy who mentioned U Joints. Even tho they felt tight The one at the Pinion had bad wear when I pulled the caps off so it has been replace also.
Thanks again for all the help, I'll keep you posted and will post pics for evaluation later.
Back to work

 

Here's some pics. I went ahead and ordered a new pilot bearing and retainer but I cant for the life of me figure out how to get out the old retainer. I've tried screwdrivers, grabbing with needle nose vice grips and I cant get it to budge. After watching some videos, it looks like it needs to be driven out from the backside along with the bearing. I might just not bother for fear of messing up something else.

 

I gave up on the pilot bearing. I tried a slide hammer with the jaws gripping the race from behind. I gave it a couple of light to moderate hits and then felt like I might damage it so I stopped. Everything I see says you need to drive it out from the back side. I just hope I didnt mess it up trying to get it out. It still rolls smooth so we'll see. With proper preload on the tapered bearings I doubt the pilot does much anyway. Especially how easy I drive it. No Burn Outs for me It's just a little 2.4 Nissan motor so the 9 Inch Rear is way over kill.

 

Smart move.

 

You're supposed to drive the pilot bearing and retainer out together from the back but it takes a lot of force and a slide hammer probably doesn't give you enough.

 

Yep, I wish I hadnt even tried the slide hammer, I'm afraid of chipping or stress cracking it but then again....I Worry too much I was very relieved to see how good everything looked. The worse thing I found was the U Joint
I ran a magnet all around and all I found was some metallic 'fuzz'

 

Update, everything is apart, cleaned and ready to ***emble. I was sent the solid spacer for the Daytona by mistake which is longer. They are suppose to send the correct one but if I dont get it by Friday then I'm taking everything to the shop and machine the Spacer on the Haas a couple thou at at time until I have the preload spot on. Probably better than shims anyway. Wish me luck.

 

Good Luck......

Ray

 

Thanks Ray,

 

Well, It's all back together .
Since I havent received a replacement spacer I decided to mill the longer spacer down to size. I milled the spacer height to .460", TQ the old nut to 125 ft/lbs . This yelded aprox .010" end play. I machined down further and when I got close at aprox 15 in/lb preload, I kicked the TQ up to 140 ft/lb. Preload went to 16 in/lb. I used 140 ft/ lb after that and machined the spacer down another .001"
This got me a spacer height of .447" and a preload of 20 in/lb. I stopped there, did final ***y w/ new seal and nut and tq to 140.
Final preload w/ seals was 24 in/lb.
Everything went back in smooth as gl*** and I'm leak free (again) after an hour of driving.

Thanks to everyone's help. You are all a great group.