One of my friends has been playing with pinstripes lately and I let him come over and practice on one of my cars. When ended up wiping it off at the end of the night because we just wasn't happy with how the lines were laying down. I had ordered "House of Color" silver lettering and pinstripe paint. He broke out some 1 Shot lettering enamel and the difference was night and day. The lines looked much better seemed to "lay down" nicer. The color was wrong (red) but the lines looked so much better. What have you guys experienced with the different pinstripe paints? He handed me a brush and let me play too. I think I might want to play some more (just not on my car). What should I buy for a learner set? What size brushes to play with? Any good videos or books for pointers? I have a bunch of junk laying around so I already have stuff to practice on!
No matter what we did with the House of Color stuff didn't seem to make it as nice as the 1 Shot. My friend was a little disappointed because he loves all their paint. He has shot his OT Caddy three times with their products and the paintjob is a work of art. Anyone else ever use "Houses" pinstripe paint?
What CRAHNBURNS is saying is that the HOK was too thin when you used it. One shot is pretty close to use right out of the can. You want your paint a little thicker when using it. Its better to let the paint set up a little and add a reducer to it to get the right texture of the paint. All HOK, 1 shot, and other striping paints are good if you get the mixture right. Thickness is the key!!!
I was talking to a friend of mine at a car show about HOK vs 1 Shot this weekend. While not the same issue you have, it may shed some light. I asked about urethane vs enamel and he immediately let me know that he had had problems with 1 shot several years ago after using it for 20+ years at that point. His complaint was that it faded in a relatively short period of time and the folks at 1 Shot basically said "so sorry, not our problem." He also likes the fact that HOK comes in 4 oz cans, and when he adds the hardener, he can stripe smudge free with different colors pretty much immediately.
I have only used 1 shot I use Japan drier to cut drying time in half have had no fading problems and have not thought of changing to HOK.
1-Shot is usually more forgiving for beginners. If you have the experience, you can use almost anything.
I find metallics are always a little trickier to lay down than solid colors. The metallic particles seem to move around, and flow away from the edge of the line into the center, leaving a deep line with feathered edges. It can be done, but I find it needs to be applied a little drier than solid colors do.
I prefer 1 shot paint dried a bit with high temp reducer to thin it a bit. Mack swords and usually use a 000 or 00 since I am just doing small panels. Good books are Pinstriping Masters 1 and 2. The best way to learn is buy a brush and some paint and try what works. There are now weekend classes to attend to teach you the basics. After striping/lettering for several years I went to a class in Lee Summit, Mo and learned some new tricks. In the class there were students who had never picked up a brush and were striping by the end of the day. Worth the money.
Get yourself a Mack Series 10 (Blue Wrap) 00 and some 1 shot. Coast Airbrush has kits for both HOK and 1 shot. I recommend Wizards pinstriping videos (Wizards Pinstripe Boot camp), also available at Coast Airbrush. Teaches you everything you need to know. Both HOK and 1 shot have worked excellent for me. Using the proper reducers and hardeners is the key. Hope this helps. Thanks, 107
Try here for some ideas and how to. Kafka has some good vids. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=pinstiping&aq=f Also here. http://www.pinheadlounge.com/ Good luck!
AHHH! The battle of HoK vs 1-Shot continues............. Here again is my take on it for what it's worth: For someone who is just starting out(and experienced people as well)I believe 1-Shot is much easier to work with than any of the urethane paints;it is easier on the brushes(natural hair brushes tend to damage readily when used with some of the urethane reducers;the urethanes have a tendency to dry to a flat or semi-gloss finish(even with the catalyst added);and if you are working over a freshly laid down surface it is near impossible to remove an error without damaging the base.The upside is they are easier to clear over afterwards. 1-Shot paints can be cleared over but it is sometimes a tricky process and not 100% successful.They can be removed readily if a mistake is made(even over relatively fresh paint)and dry to a nice glossy finish.As for deterioration over time,it is usually caused by excessive use of a car wash(and it's related caustic chemicals)or polishing with a wheel.Granted the red pigmented colors do seem to degrade faster but that is true with most red pigments. I will use urethane paints if asked but require that the customer supply all the necessary reducers and paint as I don't keep any around.I do keep a few synthetic hair striping brushes as that is the only thing you should use with urethane paints.Just my opinion folks.
Practice on glass panes, you can shave it off with a razor blade, or wipe it off if u don't like the results. I like to cut the 1-shot with mineral spirits but it takes very little to make it too slippery. one dixie cup with m/s and one with color, dip dip, and a magazine page. though it says lettering enamel it's oil based.
The class that "Bilt" referrred to is the one that Bob Bond from Auto Art magazine does. I've known Bob a long time , and he will start you down the right path . Safariknut and Unkl Ian are always on track with good advice . Good luck
I've only used 1 shot in over 30 years. Never had a need to change. Thinners,driers,retarders etc..and especially good brushes make all the difference in the world. I buy Mack brushes 6 at a time and try them all to find the one I like best. I use those for striping the finer stuff. The rest I saved for everything else.. You can also practice on a piece of mirror/glass, It's harder to stripe/letter on glass but is good for practice.
Reading some good books, watching a few videos etc will really help. I've been striping for just over 3 years, just stuff for myself and really enjoy it. There are many ways and tricks to use making/transfering patterns that you'll pick up aswell. I've only ever used Mack Series 10 (Blue Wrap) 00 and 000 brushes along with One-shot products so far. It's expensive stuff here so i'll build up my box bit by bit as i try new things. I found practising on alot of different things, not just flat stuff helped alot. Stuff like old bottles, car panels, toolboxes, old helmets etc. Just a lot of practise, keep at regular and look after and oil your brushes. Good luck
Per a former thread and something I've found really works,play your favorite music while you stripe.It helps to relax you and time your design.Sounds goofy,but a welding instructor told me to think or hum a happy tune while I welded and it worked.
Yep i find a good tune helps. What also helps is a glass or 2 of bourbon. For some reason some i seem to pull better lines and go for it a little more. Either that or i simply drink too much and any excuse will do!
One Shot for me is the only way to fly!!!!!!! It works every time like a charm and yes there are a number of things you can add to make it flow a little better. I must say that I never it use it right out of the can without adding a little something to it first. Want some inspiration to get you going? Auto Art Magazine Jimbo
OK - I guess there goes my Paypal load! I am going to order a few colors and some brushes and see what I can do. I'll see if I can find a nice piece of glass to practice on. If I can find a piece of glass I have 34 windows in my house and as long as I keep the blinds closed the wife won't notice for weeks!
Pinstriping and lettering are unique in that you have to have the perfect mixture of paint and thinner to achieve good results. Lettering enamel, such as One Shot, are shipped slightly thicker to assure that they will cover. They must be thinned to work well. Most stripers and letterers mix on the palette. I learned early in my sign lettering days to mix to the closest I could to the perfect mixture before paletteing. Never mix in the can as you can quickly ruin the whole can. Mix in a separate small container. If you get it too thin, add a few drops of unthinned paint until you get the correct mixture. This involves some expertise and palletteing, but it works. When you have it right, you seldom have to add thinner when paletteing just refreshing and filling the brush. Occasionally, as the paint naturally dries and thickens, wipe the brush clean in a rag or paper towel, and repalette. Paletteing is working the brush back and forth and wiggling the bristles to evenly distribute it in the brush. This method keeps you closer to the perfect mixture than dipping in the thinner and then the paint and then trying to achieve the perfect mixture every time you pallette. This is especially important in lettering. Most stripers will not do this because it takes a few moments time at the beginning of the job and they want to get right to it. My way of doing it.
When I first started it was alot of trial and error, and all done on glass. I refused to touch anyones ride for at least a year and a half. I searched alot on the net, YouTube, and bought some (sort of useful) books, ie: Pinstriping Masters 1 & 2, How To Pinstripe and Adcanced Pinstripe Art. There were definitely some tidbits of quality info in them. About the best thing I came across was Rocky Burris' site which I will post below. I have used primarily 1-shot, but do have a dozen or so tins of HOK. I like the HOK, especially for doing plastic helmets, snowmobiles or anything else thars plastic as this bites right into the surface whereas enamel sits on the surface. It does take a bit to get used to mixing the to the right viscosity. At the end of the day it comes down to attitude. Attitude towards practicing. Its not fun, I hated it, some days I didn't want to do it and had to force myself but always keep in mind what it is you are working towards. Hell I still practice occasionally but I stripe enough anyways to keep sharp. So in closing, both paints have their specific purposes and yes 1-Shot is more forgiving. But, practice, practice, practice ....just not on cars. Here's that link http://www.rockyburris.com/Pinstriping_Lessons/Lesson_2_MaterialsYouNeedToPractice.aspx
My best advice is find someone in your area who's a proficient striper and ask if you can hang around and watch, sort of a mentor deal. I've been striping for years and never pass up a chance to watch another striper work - I also never turn down someone wanting to hang around and watch or ask questions. The other best advice? Just do it. Unless it's a special deal (clearcoated, custom paint) I've always used Oneshot, and cut it with plain old mineral spirits. No need to go get every color in the rainbow right now either, just a couple of contrasting colors to start. I also use Mack blue wrapped 00/000. For me they seem to turn better than the green. I don't go trimming the shit out of them either, just nip the tip. I've seen guys 'trim' their brushes till there's like two hairs left. I wear brushes out fast enough without giving them a shave and a haircut. I personally don't advise practicing on glass, although I have done it. Glass doesn't have the 'bite' of a painted surface and your brush can tend to slide around or push while you're trying to turn corners, which is hard enough to learn. Some guys will tell you to put glass over a design and 'trace' it, or over a piece of graph paper - I don't recommend that either. I'm not saying it's bad advice, that's just my opinion. Also, if you keep wiping off your work, how are you gonna see your progress? Look around, I bet you can find plenty of shit to practice on. Once I got even a little proficient I started 'practicing' on cheap $15 metal toolboxes from the hardware store and selling those - I used that money for more paint and brushes. However, if you do wanna use glass you can pick up a cheap picture frame for as little as $2-$3 buck and take the glass out of that. Take some duct tape and wrap the edges so ya don't cut yourself. Good luck, and keep at it.
My advice to practice on glass is due to the amount of practice I am talking about. Eventually you are going to run out of shit laying around the house to practice on. and why not leave it to stripe for when you actually get good enough to do something you will want to keep. I used a 24"x32" storm window, and using those drill sheets taped on the back side, I would stripe all 4 pages worth...3 or 4 times a night. Everyone wants to jump right in doing the fancy stuff without learning the fundamentals first, and this is wrong. Not if you want to be any good. Yes, the glass is difficult to manage. But...once you can handle it, just imagine how much easier it will be to stripe something that isn't so slick. As for brushes, 00 Mack, 000 Mack, The 0 Mack-Norris Trickster, and the 0 Kafka scrolling brush are my main ones, but have bought all sorts to get to that conclusion. You may have to as well. everyone has their own preferences. I also thin with turpentine (I don't mind the smell) as it flows better then mineral spirits and I have been hand painting for over 27 years now.
I personally do not like practising on glass as it does not act anything like any other surface you're bound to paint on unless you end up doing glass. Far to slippery, I tend to use a take off fender that just about any local bodyshop will give you for asking. Much more acurate feeling for those times when you will be working on a car. Mount it on the wall and then you will learn how to stripe on your side, up ,down etc.. I learned early on that striping at a table as I'm often found doing now if very wrong in the beginning. Very hard to turn a car upside down to get around certain obstacles etc.. like a small panel or pane of glass. Oh yeah, back on topic, I have learned from many of the older stripers, paid special attention to them all using One Shot as the preffered medium and have never gone wrong with my choice, on the other hand when listening to guys such as Ray or Unkl Ian tell about ruining brushes etc... this bothers me when I think of all the brushes in my box have been with me for years, I 'd hate to think that after I've found a "favorite" that the HOK had ruined it over using something other than good ol One Shot. And besides, HOK doesn't have Tramp Warner out there at the shows to entertain us and that I can't have! Get practising , looking forward to seeing some progress shots, join Pinhead Lounge for inspiration and get to as many jam sessions as you can, the real learning starts when you watch the masters up close and personal as I plan on doing for the weekend starting tomorrow.... See you this weekend Danno, Unkl Ian and the rest of you crazy stripers.....
Oh, I forgot to mention. It was suggested on another thread to try and track down an old washing machine or dryer door, in stead of glass, for that very reason. The enamled surface better replicates the "bite" and will hold up to light cleaning with mineral spirits. Just something to think about, if you have a scrap yard near by.
Great idea. If I sneal into the laundry room while the wife is at work I'll have days worth of practice "canvas" and she'll never be the wiser!
To save a little money as everyone is trying to do in this day and age....buy Red, Yellow, Blue, Black, and White to start with. (Primary colors). I also practice on metal surfaces which have a good clear coat on them. Good clear coat being the key. My reason for this is the clear coat seals it and if I don't get the 1 shot cleaned off before it dries, I grab some "Oven Off", spray on the 1 shot, and it comes right off. Trick I learned from Bob Bond!!!!
A guy I used to work with owned a sign shop in Pennsylvania. When i told him I was trying to learn he told me to use Kerosene with one shot paint. He was right it flows alot betterand doesnt dry out as quickly. I just bought a jug in the camping department at wal-mart.
Just reading some of the newer posts and would like to make some observations: First off I like the idea of using an old washing machine(or similar)door that is enameled(a lot like powder coating)for practice.The plus side is the easy cleanup and no sharp edges like a piece of glass.The minus side is I don't think it will replicate the "bite" of a painted surface any more than glass will and it isn't transparent. Secondly someone mentioned using turpentine and kerosene as a reducer and to get 1-Shot to flow better.This was practiced when it contained lead but the newer formulations will not allow this. Kerosene is basically the same as regular mineral spirits(maybe a bit more highly refined)but I have experienced it causing separation in 1-Shot when used as a reducer;especially in cooler weather.Regular mineral spirits does the same thing.Odorless mineral spirits seemed to work better but with the new formulations they started to do the same thing. As for turpentine;I won't even allow it in my shop.The smell is bad enough but the really dangerous part is that if you use cotton cloths(like old T-shirts for instance)to clean out brushes and they have any turps in them they will actually spontaneously combust unless stored in an air tight container. Unless you want to turn your shop into a large barbecue pit I would advise against keeping turpentine around. One good idea I found out about was using an old refrigerator as a storage cabinet for paints and other flammable substances such as reducers and paint strippers.They seal air tight and if a fire is started in the shop will keep the flammables in check for a little while anyway. For used paint rags(I use paper towels exclusively)I have two 20 gallon barrels with snap tops on them to put them in.Used thinner goes into one of two vintage gas cans with the spring loaded tops.Again an airtight seal. Sorry for the rant but I would hate to see someone just starting out get into trouble.You can never be TOO safe.My shop is 24x36 and I have at least 10 fire extinguishers including 20 lb.ones near the doors.The smaller ones I change every two years;the big ones I discharge and refill.
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