This may seem like an obvious answer but..... I am gonna try and run my airline for the shop tomorrow. My father-n-law bought one of those Harbor Freight pipe benders. Will galvanized water pipe bend? I am looking at 3/4". I know these benders are made for pipe but does that pertain to ALL pipe?
Yes it will bend Galv.3/4 pretty good. Minimum radius would be about about 10" though. They don't work well with tight bends. The thicker the wall thickness the better also. I did my roll bar with one. I used 1 3/4" mild steel tube 1/8" wall. I had to kind of 'walk it' to make the tight bends. Sparky
don't know about the bender but you want to use black iron gas pipe not galvanized pipe for air lines
I'm not sure of why you would say that. The problem I(and others)have have with black iron pipe for airlines is that it rusts on the inside from the moisture. Any air compressor is definitely gonna throw moisture into the system(esp. in humid climates). If you are painting, or even just running airtools, rusty airlines are a big no-no. I've plumbed two of my shops(my old shop and current one) with galvanized pipe and never had any problems at all. Just wondering what problems you have had with galvanized?
I agree with you on this. Speedway, I'd be interested too in why galv. is a problem. I also gotta agree on not using a pipe bender for tube. Pipe is measured by id, tube od so the mandrels are set up differently. Crimping and poor quality bends result if you are not careful. Many people do it, however, I'd just be careful on what you use that for.
Dude(s); save yourself some time & money & use PVC! 3/4" or 1" pvc works great, is easy to run, turns tight corners, holds plenty of pressure, & all types of fittings are available to use the quick-disconnects. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!
And it can shatter into little fragments and blow sharp pieces everywhere........NOBODY should ever use any pvc to plumb a shop. I've actually seen a friends shop that his pvc system blew on(thanks god it was overnight, nobody was there)and it threw shattered pieces INTO his wooden workbench, and completely thru his drywall walls. And its not like he is the only one this has happened to, it does happen. Yeah its easy to use, but the wrong tool for the job
Geeze guys; it's rated at 480 psi - how much pressure are you using?? I've seen it used in several shops - two of my own - with no problems. Of course, I only run about 125 psi & I turn off both the compressor & an inline valve every night. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!
The failure issue with PVC seems to related to age and continuous pressure cycling. It sorta workhardens and becomes brittle according to the info I've found on it. NEVER had or witnessed issues with it BUT I wouldn't use it regardless because pipe is just so much better. One thing pipe has going for it, is that its a heatsink to cool and condense the natural water vapor in the line. ANYTHING that will help remove water is a godsend! PVC.... Lots of guys have gotten away with it and will continue to do so. Its the guys who have had issues you need to listen to. Use threaded pipe or heavy duty 1/2" soldered copper (in a smaller shop) and the potential for explosive failure disappears. PVC just makes me nervous...not a good feeling when your trying to enjoy your shop space!
I like copper also. I plumbed airlines for the new workshop at the Navy Brig. here in Charleston. I figure if the Govt/Military spec it, it must be okay.
I don't understand moisture traps going up. The best way is to run a trunk line in the cieling with a slight slope towards the other end of the shop. Turn the end down (called a dirt leg) with a pet **** on the cap at the bottom. That way the moisture condenses in the pipe and travels down the bottom of the trunk line and falls into the dirt leg on the other end where it can be removed. All the branch connections should be taken off the top of the trunk line and then turned down the wall with a pet **** on the bottom of that leg. You can't eliminate the moisture. You just need to control it. The shoes and radius of the bender need to be tight fit on the pipe OD. I doubt that the shoes will fit iron pipe galvanized or not.
i have never seen galv. pipe specied on a commercial job, i ran about 40' of pipe to cool the air before it goes to the filters. from there i ran schedule 80 pvc (the gray stuff, have to buy a plumbing supply house) have all the lines and the tank on drain lines so any water would collect there. speedway
PVC piping deteriorates in sunlight. It will dry out and become brittle. While it has many good applications air systems is not one of them. It's doesn't matter if you use sch 40 or 80. It's an illegal application because it has burst and killed people. Paul 25 years in the Plumbing and Pipefitting industry.
Root -- Galvanized pipe will work fine but here's a few tips. Dont be surprised if bending 90's the galv comes off it. It cracks and flakes off on the outside of the bend. It doesnt stretch like the pipe. Also its seamed pipe so look inside the pipe and position the seam ( You can see and feel it) to the inside of the bend. Ive had it split on the sides and top when bending 90's. If You have the room do it in 2 steps a 45 and a 45, You wont lose any zinc on the outside. Hope this helps FEDER
I would use copper but it doesn't look much cheaper and I can't sweat a joint to save my life. I figured black pipe would rust, pvc would shatter so I settled on galvanized. I wonder about the new polyethylenne lines. THat's what my new house is plumbed with. I have a plumber across the street. I'll ask him. Galv. pipe is expensive though. About 10 bux per 6 ft in 3/4".
I'm a plumber, we use PEX(polyethyl) pipe every day. When we test a building we can put as much as 250psi on the water lines, and that can be on there for up to a couple of weeks. But I am not sure about the cycling of pressure it would be experience in an air system, in most cases it sees a constant of about 50psi of water pressure. If ya think about it alot of the coil hoses for compressor are made out of similar stuff. I would check with manufacture first though see what they say.
I don't want to get inot all the issues of PVC vs. Steel blah blah blah.... I have seen what PVC does first hand after it explodes. I will not be using PVC in my shop....ever. I just wish there was a less expensive alternative to galvanized pipe.
Pex would definately be cheaper, and it would not shatter. I honestly think it would be fine. If I remember correctly a 20' stick of 1/2" is about $2.00 from the supply house. You can figure about 1.50 per fitting used and .25 per srimp ring used. Very economical. You should be able to rent the crimpers from your local rental equipment place.
Does it come in a roll? I have a dude across the street that is a plumber. He has all the fittings etc. I may give it a try and report back to ya'll. Can I get it in 3\4 or 1" ?
Yup you can get it in rolls of a 100'. Yup 3/4" and 1" are available but of course they do cost more.
What about going to pipe? Here's what I was thinking of doing. Plumb up 6' with steel, so that I can have my rigid pipe for the heavy use areas. Like where the air T's will be etc. Then convert to the PEX to run through the rafters etc.
When I used to sell plumbing fittings, galvanized wouldn't p*** code for natural/propane gas. I had always heard it was because the galv. could flake off....dunno!
No problem just use what we call female adapters, one end is female NPT the other is a pex barb which sorta looks like a heater hose ******. Your neighbor will know what I am talking about.
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