Technical Pipe Hanger Idea, (or; how to ruin a good set of rods)

So, when I purchased my 8BA block a couple years back the seller tossed in a couple sets of connecting rods. I used the nice set in the flatty and I had the other set lying around the garage waiting for inspiration.

That inspiration arrived at the bottom of a cap'n and diet with the idea to repurpose the rods and make some cool pipe hangers. So I did some measuring, drinking, cutting, welding, drinking and grinding and made them a bit shorter.

(Caution: Next section rated NT for non traditional content, please be advised) I hope you do not take offense to the newness of the Darrel Schroder frame but it is what is, I'm not building a "traditional" roadster in the pure sense but rather a car with a lot of traditional elements that I am deeply fond of. I made up some bungs threaded to accept 7/16 bolts and welded them to the frame cross tubing to accept my pipe hangers. I also added a couple in back to hang the tail pipes. I made the latter two rods with the wrist pin end flipped around so they could bolt sideways to the boxed frame. I mocked it up with a couple of Smithys that I got with the block and thought I'd share with my HAMBsters.

I don't like the offset these mufflers have and will purchase a couple of straight Porters for final****embly but you get the idea. You can also see from this angle that the bungs were welded all the way through the tubing so as not to take away from the strength of the frame and ground flush on the back side.

I hung them low enough so as not to heat the floor up, stay away from the fuel and brake lines that will share the frame rails and keep them up so they are not an eye sore from the side. I also had to avoid the semi elliptical leaf springs that hang the rear end.

I used the original ford bearings but I had to "re-size" them slightly as the 2.250" pipes were too snug (and too loose without the bearings in). I also re-sized the bolts so the rods would be easy to take apart. I inserted a length of tubing in the wrist pin end that is almost press fit and it is also snug against the 7/16 bolts. That will allow for some insulation rather than solid mounted to the frame. I plan to add a rubber washer between the bungs and the chrome washers you see for added insulation against vibration.

Here is one of the rear tailpipe hangers that will shoot the pipe out at a pleasing straight line between the frame rail and the tank and will terminate just below the spreader.

And for effect I slid a length of pipe in just to get a perspective of the finished product. It will be a bear to get under the panhard rod, around the shocks, over the axle (missing the QC champ) and hit that tailpipe hanger but if was easy everyone would do it. I am purchasing a steel mandrel bend kit that "should" make it easier and look good (I'll need more Cap'n Morgan's too). I also bought a set of V clamps and flanges to make the system easily removable. When done, everything will go to Russ Meeks at Finish Line Coating in SE Portland for ceramic coating including the red's headers and the rods. The fuel tank is out of the car in these shots but I already measured the clearance to make sure the pipes would not come near the 32 tank that I modified to fit this 34 highboy build but that, as they say, is a whole other story.

The seasoned ice in my glass says it is time for a re-fill, I hope you enjoyed today's contribution. I'm 10-10 on the side good buddies.

 

You should have them babies chromed.

 

Hey, you got'em use'em or go buy something, right?
Probably would have been done back in the day, but most probably wanted to keep those rods for future use.

Been many a rod used for a column drop, why not for exhaust?

 

I thought about Chrome but the Ceramic coating looks more like polished aluminum and will take the heat better I'm told. They get about 75 bones for a set of rods on epay so I figured why not?

 

The old rod looks better.

 

BB,
I like the idea......Plus my Capt. M is about gone so I am off to pour another. PS, I like fresh ice in mine.

 

No rubber for flexing/vibs? Rods do look neat..

 

Very Kool. I used a set of geo metro rods on my T modified years ago. They are damn near a perfect fit for 2 inch pipe.

 

I used 283 rods, with bearings, for 2" pipe once. The small end was rubber bushed with rubber hose. I don't know if I needed to or if it helped, but I drilled the beams with a row of holes to help dissipate heat.

Gary

 

Never toss out good seasoned ice 383. There are polar bears out there suffering, we all have to do our part.

Seb Fontana, I did use rubber in the wrist pin end, I still might add rubber flat washers. Between the blown flathead and the QC, I don't know if it will help but worth the effort.