I'm looking for some smallish hex-head bolts with holes drilled for safety wire. Also ANY sort of bolt, nut, washer, or latch made from copper.
Smallparts,inc,aircraft spruce, columbia aeromotive, MSC industrial supply all have ranges of neat stuff. All these catalogs are great reading when fishing for a problem solution or just looking for an alternate way to do something. All will show you widgets, materials, and tools you never even suspected existed. Ray Nacewicz (spelling?? no website) makes repros of Ford fasteners with original type finishes and all the odd double fine threads and funny heads. Perfect original fasteners can be really neat on running gear.
McMaster-Carr shows some drilled hex head bolts here... Drilled Hex Head They have all kinds of neat stuff and have great service. They have real simple on-line ordering also. You just send them a picture of your car showing the license plate, they then get your credit card and shipping address from there. Neal
Grimlok, I have an Aircraft Spruce catalog that I can bring buy this weekend if you want to look thru it. Also look in the yellow pages in KC there is a aircraft parts supplier in KCK that you can Cash and Carry. Or check str***er's. Chris Nelson Kansas
What sized bolts - besides smallish? There are drill jigs that are reasonable in price so you can drill your own. I have a few silicon bronze 3/8-16 bolts about 1" long or so. Would those help? You can get bronze latches from marine supply stores and sometimes from woodworkers supply outfits. The marine stores have the best selection.
Most of my running gear has original Ford hardware. Cotter pinned and wired as it was before. It should look nice. Bruce - I'm giving serious thought to your bellypan idea. So far the only thing I've lost are all four castle nuts and both bolts and nuts that hold the Torque tube pivot to the trans. But I think I have some new ones located. I'm thinking of ways to fasten an aluminum belly pan. So far I've come up with this. Tabs welded along the bottom of the body just behind the bead. Drill and tap the tabs or drill and spot weld a nut to the back. Pan will slide between the very bottom of the body and the tab. Fasten from the front with the hex bolts backed with copper washers and safety wire the whole thing. I saw some panels on a Bugati (maybe?) done the same way. (all stainless or chrome hardware) Hood sides could be done this way as well. Sod - Definitely stop by with that catalog if you want. I'm sure I'll find something in there. I can give you your Flat Out book back...good read there. Call from the cell first if you can since Amelia might be in mid nap. Nealin - Thanks for the link. Hmmm...I might need bolts drilled on every flat to make it easier to thread the wire though. You won't catch me typing BS about spitting Coke and cleaning monitors but you definitely got me with those last two lines. Any better ideas for fastening a pan? Along the bottom I figured I'd use a sort of post to space it away from the frame with the same tab setup.
Kevin, If you check this on Sat., PM me your cell number. It will be Sunday afternoon, I have to work on Saturday. Chris
[ QUOTE ] So far the only thing I've lost are all four castle nuts and both bolts and nuts that hold the Torque tube pivot to the trans. [/ QUOTE ] Far as the castle - castellated? - nuts go, you can probably find them in the Dorman bolt ***ortment at your nearest real parts house.
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