So I've sorta been collecting bits to build a '32 based project. Whenever I could find/afford some random piece. Today I had to be at work while a contractor works on our Nitrogen system for the shop lasers. The other thing our shop has is several high dollar dead flat welding tables with all kinds of clamps, stop blocks etc. I figured what the heck, salary man needs some kind of compensation. So last night I loaded all the rusty frame rail sections in the truck and brought my spankin new Miller helmet. Let's see what we can do with this mess.
Now I absolutely do not claim to be a good fabricator, welder or rod builder. I'm a hack at best, but will try to be precise with measurements before making my goober welds. I bought the frame pieces off of Craigslist in Austin. The gent is on the JJ and had these after deciding to take a different approach on his project. The front 2/3 is OG Henry with a legible S/N and the rear rail sections are repro with a built in notch. He also included boxing plates. I accidentally had a 40" piece of 2" tube to set the rear width and height. So with innocent arrogance, a Wescott frame drawing and a shiny new tape measure, I started from the rear and worked forward.
Of course the tables are metric, but measurements fell into place pretty well. I worked from a centerline and reference blocks secured to the table. Not gonna lie, this was SO MUCH easier than a garage floor. Lookit them little stubby fingers.
The plan B name has been used before by a much beloved member of this board. It may even be copyrighted and trademarked! His goon squad is as squirrelly and nuts as he is! You have been warned!
Does this jig make my frame look rusty and crooked? Actually the pieces were not bent or twisted, which helped immensely.
Title changed, but mine's not from outer space. But I do work next door to Inner Space Caverns, so yeah, that.
Push, shove, measure, measure, measure. The welding crew was entertained to say the least. Pretty nasty gaps at the joints when the hole positions are to print. I've read that the Wescott drawing isn't accurate, but it came out ok.
After welding - skipping around to minimize warping - I added some temporary cross braces to hold it still. Pic is after cleaning up my mess.
Looks pretty good to me. Media blasting before the welding would have been nice, but just the same...
Long range plan is: So-Cal Model A front crossmember (in hand) Now installed OG Model A rear crossmember (in hand) 35-40 x member pieces with '39 pedals (in hand) 389 tri power Pontiac with a T-10 (got lotsa pieces bits ) 35-36 front axle that I need to send to Sid's, hung by wishbones. Buick 90 fin drums with Lincoln backing plates in front and '40 backing plates in back. 90 fin drums are prettier. There, I said it. 41 rear diff (have) with an open conversion hung by ladder bars. Maybe one day a quick change, hence the Model A rear crossmember. I don't have a body and that's not in the budget right now unless I win the lottery. I'm not ruling out a Model A coupe either. I'm going for a '60 - '65 vibe with Rader style wheels new Rocket Racing Strike or used and Piecrust cheaters on the back.
So there it is. Not a bad mornings work. I did this mainly because I could and was tired of looking at the forlorn pile of pieces. Much grinding to follow. I could (and have on other projects) just hauled it to Austin Speed Shop or Dirty's or N. TX Customs or Rex Rods. Just had to prove it to myself I guess. The chassis plan is very much inspired by one from Dirty's shop. I'll try to find an image to post.
Totally agree. Three jobs ago, I had access to a full blasting room and separate booth with garnet media. And I did take full advantage. At my current company, we only use fresh cold rolled material that goes straight to powder coat, so no free blast cabinet. I'll figure out something.
People have started with worse, MUCH WORSE, you got bigger nads than me but good on ya, should work great, anything 32 Ford gets extra points in my book.
OK, couldn't stop myself. So-Cal crossmember just popped right in there. Also did a bunch of grinding to disguise my sorry welds. I'll be placing an inordinate amount of faith in the boxing plates.
I have an X-member chassis with belled holes under my latest 32 build and found that it posed a big problem with running the exhaust, brake and fuel lines and the heavy wire from trunk mounted battery to engine. I now understand why most of the 32 frames use the tubular center members as it makes those jobs so much easier. Keeping everything up above the bottom of the frame rails was not an easy job. Compare the first chassis pic you posted to the other two. The X-member definitely gives you a better and a traditional frame but is it necessary and who will see it? just my thoughts and experience.
Dropped off two sets of '62 Pontiac heads at the machine shop for evaluation. Hopefully I can get one good pair out of the four. I'm using these so I can run the '62 tri-power intake I have. 'cuz what's a hot rod without multi carbs? If you need excellent work in Central Texas, check out Texas Engine Machine in Llano. Jeff and his crew are outstanding.
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