So... Since I started driving my 55, I noticed it would sometimes want to pull as I went over a bump in the road. Didn't think much of it because I was told that strait axle cars all ride different, but all ride like shit. Haha. But the other night when I had my 9 yr old daughter with me... I went over a group of pothole fixes the car violently started shaking out of my hands. I let off the gas and about 10 mph it stopped. Now the car has been a drag car since the early 60's. So it's always just went strait on a perfect smooth track. So far I have checked the axle... It's at 10 degrees ... And the front tires are facing in about a 1/4 inch.... Do it's got to be the steering arm right? It's on a pretty big angle down. Should it be level? Check the pics... Thanks
The steering looks sketchy to me,,is that a bolt where the rod attaches to the spindle ? Is the rod bent?,have you replaced all the tie rod ends? HRP
Steering geometry looks questionable! Usually a combination of worn parts, an incorrect alignment setting, or offset rims, will promote a rattle.
The arm looks like it was extended by sliding a piece of round stock and welding it. I always wanted to replace it... But the guy I bought it from told me that it has always been like that since he bought it. So I thought it was ugly, but ok. I guess my question is, does the steering arm have to be level? Or does the angle down have nothing to do with the Death wobble?
the drag link needs to be parallel to the ground on a car with parallel leaf springs. Serious bump steer results if it's set up like that. See if you can change the steering arm to locate it on top of the spindle. And you'll want to get the pitman arm so it's vertical at the center of travel, as well.
Low speed wobble is a combination of many things, going by all the many threads on here. I don't like that drag link, BUT...I don't think it is the "only" thing causing it. It sure looks iffy for strength, and should be redone soon. If it was me, I'd get some axle shim wedges, to get the caster back to 3 to 5 just to see if it improves. Too little caster as well as too much, can induce wobble. I'd also consider a steering damper...even though it is "a masking" of the real issue Wheel offset sometimes adds to wobble. Too many things to list, can add to low speed wobble. Once a wheel hits a hole, things start moving, sometimes flexing, and increases the movements. The damper usually will stop that "First" movement before it can multiply.
Squirrel's right! (as usual)drag link is typ. (but not always) horizontal. How tight are the king pins? The caster sounds like it's within setup value. Wheel offset creates a big lever arm, to catch a tire and induce a wobble (if this is the source), Wheel/Tire balance, wheel bearing clearances, (and wear)...etc.
true, arm vertical at straight ahead. one comment on excessive caster; When one wheel hits a hole, that wheel tries to toe out rapidly. That pushes a rear mounted tie rod with great force, trying to turn the opposite wheel. When the caster is heavy, that opposite wheel wants to stay straight, and that can cause the tie rod tube to flex/bow. Some salt racer on here, had to use a massive tie rod to tame his wobble with the extra caster he had. Hamber "Tudor" also had that tie rod flex. this is why an incorrect wheel offset, can be just enough to cause a sketchy front end to start a wobble. That offset is not the cause, but just adds to the mix of things that are wrong Some guys here have cured a minor low speed wobble with lower tire pressure, and some with a bit more toe. These are also sort of "masking" a series of other issues. I agree the drag link needs relocating...Looks like a big job to me
Cool looking ride - so, you are you just using it as a street car? if so, while under it should rethink flat springs and HD shocks. did you put current wheels/tires on it?
er, in the photo, it appears your steering box is about to fall off. The nut in the photo is very loose, showing a floppy lock washer. And yes, a drag link mounted at such an angle will allow the steering arm to have a lot of leverage on the pitman arm which could certainly cause steering parts [like the steering gear mount and/or the frame rail itself] to flex, inducing a wobble. Gotta get the drag link parallel to the ground and make sure the drag link welds are safe...it looks "sketchy" as somebody else has said.
I'm with f&j, I also think 1/4 inch toe in is excessive, I'd run 1/8, short fix may be a damper, but there's a lot not right there. Do some research on the net as to how the front end should be set up, there's lots available, it'll give you a better idea of where to start. Remember, drag tracks aren't real roads full of lumps and bumps. It's repairable, with a little work you'll be pleased.
HRP is right. That appears to me to be a heim joint with a jam nut & a bolt with a nut going through the steering knuckle. If that steering spindle hole as got a 7 degree taper fit for a tie rod end between the taper, the bolt, & the heim joint its probably all over the place. Do you have a picture of the inside of the frame rail where the steering box is mounted? It looks like it is just bolted to the c-channel of the frame? Just redo the whole thing right.
Nobody mentioned it; but that Corvair box is probably pretty light duty for a street driven '55. Since you are having trouble with the current set-up, a better option may be to set it up with cross-steering using a 525 box, stronger and would help the geometry too.
I would move the steering box forward of the axle and below the frame rail so the link is level. Also, get some actual tie rod ends! And you have too much toe in, the box is loose, the pitman arm is angled so much I doubt you could turn very sharp to the right........I would be very surprised if any drag strip ever let that car make a run with that setup under it. The globby welds alone would never pass inspection at any strip I have been at. You need some expert help, and soon! Check the rest of the build, who knows how many other Mickey Mouse methods have been incorporated in it.
Even though most of it needs replacing, you could, in the interim, lay under it and let someone move the steering wheel back and forth to see what is moving around. Might be able to improve it some temporarily.
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