I'm more familar with Ford transmissions, but I"m putting a 401 Buick in my '49 Ford coupe. I've got a 4spd bellhousing and I had my heart set on an M20-21 Muncie which seem hard to get at a sane price around here. I've seen a couple of Super T-10s for sale and I'm wondering if this is a better option? So... I need some help since I don't know anything about these transmissions. 1. How strong is a Super T-10 vs a Muncie M20-21? Would it stand up to a mildly warmed over 401 Buick? 2. Advantages, disadvantages. 3. Any help with identification (i.e. numbers, codes) so I know I'm getting the real deal. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
as far as i know the T-10 is a good tranny. i have friends that run them in their mustangs and nobody has killed one to the point of not being able to fix it. and they love NOS (the bigger the shot the better according to them) so that should tell you they are durable.
I don't know if I can be of much help, but there are a few things I know about the super T10. I am building a 54 Willys Aero streetrod and purchased a super T10 from a fellow hot rodder. I got the info off the side of it and did a good bit of investigation on the internet. From what I could find, the super T10 is supposed to be a lot stronger than the older version. The one I have is out of an 81 TransAm. It is called an Ultra Low Super T10 with first gear at 3.42, second at 2.28, third at 1.46 and fourth at 1.00. It has a 26 spline input shaft and 32 spline output shaft. The non-ultra low units have different ratios. If you have access to one that you are considering purchasing, get all of the codes off of the unit (several places) and do an internet search. Hope this helps some.
Super T10 is a good, strong alternative to the M21/M22 It'll live behind your 401 if it's in good shape, and you don't run steep gears, sticky tires, or launch the car at 6K. Good info here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=210910
I've had a ST-10 in my '55 Buick Special with a 401, 2x4 AFB's, etc., for about 6 years now. I don't baby it and have gone down the track maybe 10 times just for kicks, as well as putting 3-5k miles a year on it on the street. Never had a problem with the transmission.
got a super t10 behind my 401 in an old chevy pickup, bitch to install and get everything working, but now it's great, and yah, it's been beaten on, holds up well
Good reading on the Super T-10's on this site. Helps identify them http://fiedlerh.home.att.net/BW.htm Borg warner also had a Power Brute super T-10 with an iron case and high nickel gears instead of the aluminum case. These are really strong. Not indestructable though as I bought one that was trashed. Richmond later picked up the manufacturing and stiffened up the aluminum case so these are quite good as well.
they supposedly stiffened it up, but it's still rated at a VERY low torque rating for a richmond.... like 260 or something like that.
Yeah give or take... http://www.richmondgear.com/07pdfs/RG25.pdf shows 300 to 375 FT LBS depending on the ratio.
You gotta take into consideration though that Richmonds ratings are for 1) heavier cars than ours, and 2) Racing. If you've got MORE than those numbers in torque, less weight, and don't plan to drag race it all the time... (which is a pretty good description of average usage of a hot rod), you should still be fine. :thumbup:
I had a T-10 behind by 425 Nailhead in a full fendered model 'A' coupe, which I drove hard. I had since sold the model 'A' and purchased the T-10 back. I have a super T-10 behind my supercharged 409 in a high boy deuce coupe. I have beat this transmission up for 9 years and it is still holding together real fine. I wouldn't worry about the T-10 behind the 401.... You'll be okay....
I'm sure the muncie trans guys will hate me-but Ive rebuilt both. They are both great smooth shifting trannys. The t-10 is designed slightly better due to a mid plate addition. If you study one when apart, you can see it's slightly better. Guys-only slightly better-OK?
Thanks for the input/information. This really helps me with my decision. Now it's time to look up a few ID numbers and have a look at a couple for sale locally. I'm not into drag racing and I'm running stock rims, so I can't see me launching the car hard enough really start breaking things. I don't baby my cars, but I find you can't really let them loose in the city without getting into trouble.
for a cruiser/driver T10 will be fine, just put in the richmond gears if you get an older one (always heard they liked to scramble 2nd gear when stock). good site to check out is http://www.wrightconnection.net/ if you dont have your eye on anything particular yet, i have a buddy with a T10 that should be ready to drop in for $400
i have one of the late model ones 6 ring input shaft 3.42 1st, that i swapped into a cast iron case. i've never had a problem with it... but then again i've only had it behind small blocks... just freshend it up and will be reusing it behind a healthy 327 with maybe a shot of N20... looking for a steel midplate but dont think its available???
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