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Technical Polishing Stainless Trim - Micro Scratches

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mattilac, Feb 11, 2022.

  1. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,156

    Mattilac
    Member

    I'm trying to restore my '64 F100 dash trim panel by myself after a local shop nearly ruined the part (semi-long story). It's some grade of stainless steel even though it's magnetic. I noticed the windshield trim is the same material.

    So I sanded the crap out of it starting with 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000, and then started polishing with Chemical Guys Heavy Metal Polish. After cleaning it off, I'm still seeing scratches up close.

    Any tricks to this? Just sand more? Polish more? A friend suggested sanding it with the polishing compound.

    I mean, it looks great from 6" and further away; maybe I'm being too obsessive.

    (Don't mind the flat area with holes - that will be painted Ford argent silver)

    IMG_0112.JPG

    IMG_0121.JPG
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  2. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 33,702

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    what type of polisher are you using?
     
  3. A 2 B
    Joined: Dec 2, 2015
    Posts: 551

    A 2 B
    Member
    from SW Ontario

    It looks like you moved on to the next grit a little too soon. Repeating the process is what it takes. Find out what grit will remove the visible scratches and go from there.
     
    Dino 64, Just Gary, rockable and 2 others like this.
  4. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,156

    Mattilac
    Member

    Just a dremel with the included felt bits. I also tried polishing it by hand with a micro fiber cloth.

    I'm a noob.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2022
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  5. To get a mirror shine it's been my experience you need to use a buffing wheel, particularly on stainless. You're close, I'd hit it with a sewn cotton buff/red rouge and follow up with a loose cotton/white rouge.
     
  6. Jones St.
    Joined: Feb 8, 2020
    Posts: 3,364

    Jones St.

  7. Jones St.
    Joined: Feb 8, 2020
    Posts: 3,364

    Jones St.

  8. Jones St.
    Joined: Feb 8, 2020
    Posts: 3,364

    Jones St.

  9. Jones St.
    Joined: Feb 8, 2020
    Posts: 3,364

    Jones St.

  10. Jones St.
    Joined: Feb 8, 2020
    Posts: 3,364

    Jones St.

  11. Jones St.
    Joined: Feb 8, 2020
    Posts: 3,364

    Jones St.

  12. Jones St.
    Joined: Feb 8, 2020
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    Jones St.

  13. Jones St.
    Joined: Feb 8, 2020
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    Jones St.

  14. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,330

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't hit the wheel until I have completed 5000 dry sanding. Yours looks pretty good I have to say. Just a bit finer sanding before the polishing steps. I like using different wheels for black, white and red compound. Wear gloves, if the material isn't hot, the magic isn't 'appening.
     
    VANDENPLAS and loudbang like this.
  15. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 33,702

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    good advice above - Dremel OK for very small parts
     
    loudbang likes this.
  16. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,905

    5window
    Member

    Thanks for the videos.
     
    LWEL9226 likes this.
  17. Be very careful with the buffing wheel. We had 2 guys locally in Connecticut that ended up with a 1931 Ford radiator shell that caused them a lot of physical damage.
     
  18. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,156

    Mattilac
    Member

    I had watched most of those videos. Pretty helpful, although it's tough to tell just how polished those parts are getting without having close up shots to examine. I've discovered there's a big difference between good & shiny and a true mirror finish.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2022
    loudbang likes this.

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