That's funny. I wish I had a kit car. I do have two beetles (but not with the pansy-*** struts). But hey yeah you do need to find something else to autocross; maybe the kit when it's done... Here's the thing: I'll bet you're going to be re-doing the entire car within ten years, 'cause you're not satisfied with the way the por 15 "painted" parts are looking/holding up. Just my opinion... ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!
Rich How do I clean the wax/grease remover off the steel and should I use bondo and do the bodywork before I shoot with epoxy primer or after? Any help would be great! Thanks Colin
man oh man.. what a thread. Let me just be blunt. NO matter what you paint a car with, be it primer, or semi gloss, or POR15, or candy, or metalflake, or a 50 thousand dollar gloss job.. IT WILL RUST. Paint is a time extender. A good polished gloss will provide the best seal from O2 that I know of. But if you polish it too often, it will wear through, and if ya dont, it'll get dull, and open up to air, and rust. CARS RUST!!! It happens. The only guy who had an idea to stop it, made an ugly looking sports car, that wasn't too sporty, and the inside rusted all to hell anyways. Plus it looked pretty funky going back and forth in time. Anyway..that's beside the point. If you have a car you want to last "forever" you are kiddin yourself. IT wont happen. If you really want it to last forever, learn how to make new metal panels, new floors, new frame, and new rubber seals, cuz they will ALL eventually need replacing. Look at the show cars that are "survivors" from the 50's and 60's. Most of em look like **** if they were ever driven. Sure.. there are some nice 1930 whatever cars that have sat inside, in a dehumidified, temperature controlled environment for 60 plus years... but that aint a car, it's an investment. If you have a car.. that you drive.. and enjoy.. then Do that. Enjoy it. And don't ***** when something brakes, rusts, or quits workin. FIX IT... and keep on cruizin. if it's really bad.. save the dough, and fix it when you can afford it. If it pisses you off enough.. get rid of it and get it to somebody else who will fix it. Just don't crush em... it's sad... but I HATE seeing junked cars get crushed. I'd rather see yards stacked 6 cars high, then see em crushed. What a waste. Peace Chris
I used POR-15 inside the doors and around the windshield lap seam on my '50 Fleetline. It really sticks to the rough surface inside the doors. But on anything smooth, once dry it can be peeled right off. Using it on unrusted, clean metal is a waste of time and money. When I was done, I used up the little bit on the brush and in the paint cap I used to paint out of, on the rust spots all over my beater Suburban. Some places got two coats, some just one. I never wash this truck, and I drove it all winter. I can see in some spots the rust is creeping back under the POR, and it's hard to tell if it's cracked in spots or just the UV exposure is turning it clear. But from the looks of it, for the most part if I wanted to wire brush the thing down all over and cover all of the rotted spots with the POR-15, do it in the morning, and primer over it at the 5 hour mark out of a spray can, I think I could make the truck actually look halfway decent. Except for the missing rear wheel arches. And it would stay that way at least as long as this truck is going to last. But I'm not sure I'd use it on something I wanted to stay nice, for a long long time. Except in those hidden spots you just can't get to any other way - if I had a clean, bare frame I'd see about painting or powder coating it first.
I did the frame of my 85 F150 a couple of years ago and it still looks great in the land of snow! BUT As Neil Young has said " Rust never sleeps"
Haha! Thread back from the dead! Its five years latter and the POR-15 is still holding up fine on my old Studebaker, and everything else I applied it to. Wonder if rlackey ever did manage to get his rust-bucket to that level of BC CC candy coated perfection he endorsed?
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