I used Por 15 on restoration projects for 20+ years, and NEVER had an issue. I have an OT vehicle that had bad rust that I treated with it 20+ years ago, and it STILL has not returned. That stuff does exactly what they say it does...FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS and it will last longer than you & me... EW
I used some on the panel behind the seat of my pickup about 8 years ago. I figured it would be ugly since I was brushing it over rust, but no! The can said it contained "levelers".after it was brushed on rough metal you would have thought I sprayed it on a decent panel! UV's weren't an issue because of where I put it, but if it were to be exposed I would definitely cover it as per directions. Seems to have enough consistency to fill pinholes and such. Next time I do something like this I want to try Rustbullet. It makes the same claims but is also UV resistant. In the ads treated metal looks kind of like aluminum. Probably not your final finish, but should hold up until you paint.
So you come on here, singing the praises of POR-15, and then say you will try something else next time? Doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
That's bogus, I used Eastwood's encapsulator on a lot of restos and never had a problem. In fact, I just went outside to my lawnmower that has some encapsulator on it and scraped the paint with a metal putty knife - hard as rock!
As a long time POR 15 user and a reader of their website, this is simply not true. Their website claims that the rust inhibiting characteristics are not degraded by UV, just the surface finish of the paint.
Ditto, what charlesincharge said; Directly over rust (rough surface), or, on freshly sandblasted metal. Either give a surface the "bite" that POR 15 needs. I did put some on clean sheet meta, to see how that would work; It peeled. 4TTRUK
Tubman, I like POR-15, and would use it again if it fits the purpose. Rust Bullet looks good, too, but I won't know for sure unless I try it. I can't think of any more concealed surfaces I need to coat, but have a few exposed surfaces on my list. If Rust Bullet works it would be my choice, it's doubtful that I would get around to painting immediately, I am pictured in the dictionary beside the word "procrastinator".
Always had good results with POR15. If you are not using the entire can, transfer the rest into a plastic container (I use the old coolaid ones with the screw on cap), label it and keep it in your refrigerator. I just used some for a small rust repair yesterday. The POR15 has been in my refrigerator for over a year. It still looked and brushed on smooth with no problem. Clean the edge of the container before putting the cover back on. If it dries in the cover your container will be very tightly sealed and you might have to destroy the container to open it up again. The instructions do say that it is UV sensitive. When top coating you should give it a light sanding for proper adhesion of any top coating or body fillers.
X2 off in sheets over a sand blasted frame with the frame paint type yet so many others never had a problem,.
I found out if you want to remove Por 15 put a little brake fluid on it. Found out by accident, little issue with a pressure bleeder I was using, ran a little fluid down the frame rail and the Por 15 bubbled right up. Not as bullit proof as they claimed IMHO.
Used to live in Shreveport, La. and wouldcommonly see cars that had been vandalized by having brake fluid poured on them. Metal would be clean and paint would be flapping.
Not defending POR15 or anything, I've only used it a few times, like anything, prep prep prep and the right kind of prep! I own a powder coat shop and the same applies there. If it's not prepped right it will fail period! The people that have had bad experiences with POR15 or powder coat for that matter I believe are caused by the substrate not being prepped right. We have 2 large local powder coaters and their finishes fail more times then I can count from their customers telling us that the finished coating is peeling off and not sticking. A lot of factors come into play. We always sandblast our pieces that are going to get coated even if it's new metal and use the right prep solution, they also get cooked out in the bake oven before they get the final finish. Not trying to make this about powder coating but same principles apply!
Exactly - Which is why the KBS Coatings products made sense to me, they sell products for prep and stress PREP. Here's the ritual I have been doing on the Dart roof this week.... Pic below of first coat of KBS "galvanized steel" RustSeal coating, still wet. It dried a flat metallic or galvanized look. Prep: AquaKean (KBS). 150 DA to bare metal. AquaKean. Evapo-Rust over night soak. (Paper towels under plastic sheet). Aqua-Klean. 150 DA. RustBlast (KBS) 1 hour soak. AquaKean. Application: Reduced 10% and HVLP shot at 35psi. 24hr dry. Knocked off any dust nubs with 320grit. 2nd coat laid on a little heavier now that I have a feel for it. After 1st coat your could still see the minor pits where rust was, after 2nd coat they are gone - Talk about flow out! Used a guide coat and sanded to verify everything is filled, no sign of the pits at all. Then a 3rd double wet coat reduced a bit more for a smooth finish. Really did not need the 3rd coat for filling, could have left it at 2 coats and skipped the guide coat. Heck I was expecting to use 2K primer surfacer to get it all filled and smooth. Thought all the KBS products were very easy to work with, even the paint can spouts. First time I ever had a can of paint after pouring without a drop of paint in the groove, The Evapo-Rust I bought at AutoZone and really like it too. Non toxic! The paper towels turned red from the rust it dissolved, even in areas I thought were rust free.
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