Technical Posie reversed eye spring under a '48 Ford

I've read several threads about this subject and still don't have an answer. Besides the spring, what else will I have to change to make this work with a flathead? I've seen answers referring to splitting the wishbones, cutting the wishbones to change the caster and a whole lot of other stuff that doesn't sound right for this application. Before I get the front end torn apart, is the new spring going to interfere with anything, and is changing it worth the effort?

 

I don't know how applicable this is, but I put one under an otherwise stock '36 Ford. I didn't have to change anything else and it worked fine. The '36 and '48 are similar, soooo....

If I had thought that I would have to do anything with the wish bones, I wouldn't have done it. IIRC, I got about a 2 1/2" drop at the front bumper and it rode as it had before.

 

Panhard bar length, clearance between the wishbone legs where they p*** under the frame, caster change, drag link length, and shock length are a couple things to look at, depending on the amount of drop. Drop may not be as much as anticipated depending on the "sag" of the original spring.

 

Here is the mess I made. '48 axle, CE shocks on fabricated mounts, Posies spring, Weedetr sway bar, homemade Panhard bar with adjustment on other end, and custom drag link switched to bottom of steering arm.

There are a other modifications due to what was probably a poor choice of using a '40 Fort dropped crossmember.

Someday I hope to get the car drivable and see if it all works.

 

I put a posies super low on the front of my 46 and all I changed was tweaking the end of the pan hard so it fit at the lowered height correctly.

That’s it.

 

Thought I remembered you used a Posies spring and hoped you would post your info on this thread.

 

Yup. Be forwarned that it may be taller than your worn out stock spring but it will settle quite a bit the first couple of years.

compared to a 40 ford a 46-8 sits like a monster truck from the factory.

I still use the stock sway bar and ends. Back when I was still using stock lever style shocks I used a shorter sway bar length dog bone to keep the shock clocked correctly at the lowered ride height.

you really only need to start worrying about wishbone clearance when you get into using dropped cross members.