I have some reservations and would appreciate some input. Here's my situation... I have the possibility of picking up a 1930 model a sedan and beginning my first build... my dream resto-rod! But ill have to sit on the car for a while to save up and purchace parts here and there...not that big of a deal for me. Here are my main concerns: 1. Should I buy the car whole (frame and body) or just get the body and buy a new frame already boxed and made with new steel and crossmembers already in or have the old frame cleaned and boxed? 2. How much horsepower is too much for the car/frame? Im looking at some motors in the 350 to 450 hp range. 3. Back to frame question...I have seen many types of front suspensions for the model A... mustang II kits, some with small shocks and a leaf spring in the middle in the front with disk breaks in front... which is a more general type found on these cars/frames? I greatly appreciate your input. As said before, my first build. (I posted this in the Ford Barn forums as well)
If I were you I'd buy a new frame and get it they way you want it.. New Model A frames can be bought for not that much money and you can sell the original frame to off set the price of the new frame.. I personally think a Model A needs a traditional(straight axle) front end....
I would get the whole car and then you would have more options. I dont like the mustang II kits on these---especially if not running fenders. Look at Speedway motors for some of their front suspension kits.
kinda what I was thinking about the frame. I'll have to look into the straight axle front end. Used to late 60's cars... to point out the obvious...totally new era for me but I cant wait!
Buy the whole car. The A frame will easily habdle 450 hp boxed. Spend some time looking around and asking questions here before you make any real decisions on what to do with it. When you have settled on a build type then start collecting parts to make that build come to life. Oh don't buy suspension parts from speedy bill.
The first thing is to study the cars on this site. If you have the skills you can box and A-frame or add an x-member kit such as Dagels. The aftermarket A ch***is are also reasonably priced if you go that way. As for buying a complete car or body depends upon what kind of deal you can find and how you want to build the car. How much of the original stuff you want to use such as fenders, and such. Mustang II or any type of independent suspension does not belong on a Model A nor does it look good.
I was concerned about safety and drive-ability when thining of suspension. I deffinate am keep the fenders! One of my favorite parts about these model A's. Is my motor planning ok for the car or too much?
I just had Rick at Mac's knock me out a ch***is and i can't complain about the price for a one off custom frame to my specs... http://www.macsratz.com
Most of us on the HAMB prefer an I beam axle under a Model A or similar car especially if it does not have fenders. There are lots of choices out there in the after market or you can redo the stock Model A setup. I've seen it both ways as far as frames go an a lot of it has to do with what you have to work with to begin with and what your skills are. I've got one friend who ran a Model A sedan with a blown Chevy small block in it for years and ran 12's or better at the drags in street trim. That with a boxed stock frame. Using the stock frame and modifying it may have one advantage in that if it has the original serial number on it in good shape it makes it easier to ***le the car when it's done. Advantage to the aftermarket frame is that one you don't have to be an ace welder or pay someone else to weld on your frame. Two it may be a lot quicker as far as build time goes as you get the frame, slick it out an paint it and bolt the other parts on it and go. Make sure you get a statement of origin with the frame from the builder though. Right now I'm chasing a pretty bare bones sedan body with a frame under it for my A V8 project but it may be advantages to find one that is pretty complete and in reasonably decent shape like and older and slightly tired restoration. You would have a lot of the pieces that you would have to go hunt down if you just bought a bare body. There is alway a good market for the original pieces you don't use in the build.
Buy the frame too, you may need the numbers off it. Also if you have to sit on it for a while it would be nice to make it roll. Oh and if your keeping the fenders you would probably want the original frame.
Wow, Thank you for all the input! The possibility just kinda happened for me while visiting my parents last week. When I got home I realized I haven't worked on a car of this age and a million questions and concerns popped into my mind. Like I said, I'm totally prepared to sit on the car as needed to get funds to do things right and I know my limitations as far as welding and fabricaion so I'll have to source those things out as needed.
Unless you are in mexico there are plenty of HAMBers just up the coast from you who are pretty competent. you may want to check them out before you pay someone else to do what it is that you think you can't do.
Good one! And the answer is...too much. If you have 300 to 350 HP you'll have PLENTY of moxie, and actually be able to afford to drive it. I've run 265, 283, 327 and 355 inch SBC's. They all drive just fine if you use a dram of judgement now and then. Thanks Voodoo, there are those, however, who need to swap ends in their own car length! 400HP
Since this is the HAMB......NO mustang II suspension stuff on a proper traditional A, go with a dropped beam axle. And NO disk brakes either, go with juiced drums. If this is going to be a street car, anything with more than 200HP is overkill. Just my opinion, of course.
Mustang II is not going to fly on the Hamb,,dropped axle is the way to go. Buy the car and sit on it while you listen and learn on the Hamb. HRP
Too much - you'll never ever ever use that much power. Until quite recently that was dragster only power. You're looking at 450hp/ton. A new BMW M5 has 500hp and weighs nearly 2 tons. Do you have any idea how fast they are and what technology is in them to handle that power. The 450hp route also forces you to change so much on that Model-A and forces you to over engineer it. You'll end up with something that looks like an jalopy but drives like a mid seventies Firebird. Remember the Flathead guys are happy with 100hp, in their light weight Fords and they can use original pre-48 parts. 200hp is plenty, 250 tops. Anymore is too much. You mentioned safety. "450hp Model-A" and "safety" are terms not normally seen within miles of each other. If you're keen on starting a Model-A project check out this video: it might just inspire you to run a banger.!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux6KGgZv044
I don't think that an A bone with 350-400 hp on tap is too much. granted it does take a little driving expertise to drive one something that is not common these days but I don't see the problem with learning to drive. He is talking sedan by the way not coupe, it isn't as likely to swap ends with him as a short wheelbase vehicle.
Model As didn't have numbers stamped on the frames. The serial number was stamped on the engine block.
You could be correct, I think that flamed A bones sedan is 110" and he should be relitivley close to stock. I don't have a frame handy here but I am sure that the raven's sedan is longer than 103 and change and it is bone stock.
In two or three places. Under the cowl on the left hand rail, a little further forward under the fender and sometimes on the center crossmember.
All Model-A's have the same wheelbase. You're so used to seeing those chopped and channelled sedans with suicide front ends you're forgotten how Ford made them;-) Ed
Quote: <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" cl***=alt2>Originally Posted by Kevinsrodshop Model As didn't have numbers stamped on the frames. The serial number was stamped on the engine block. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> Quote: In two or three places. Under the cowl on the left hand rail, a little further forward under the fender and sometimes on the center crossmember. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->__________________ I think Kevin was probably right that they didn't have serial numbers on frames in Canada, they did however in the United States. Edwardlloyd may be right about what they did in Germany (or he may be thinking of a '32) but in the United States the serial number was in one place on the frame and that was on top of the left frame rail just under the body where it could not be seen without removing the body.
yea I actually dug out a book and checked. I just haven't been back yet. 450 may be a little much for a novice but 350 isn't even a healthy street motor. It is not likely that he will keep his weight below 2500 lbs with thr sedan. He should be fine.
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