My question for the artists of the HAMB is how well can art work hold up when applied to a flathead on a running motor? I currently have a high compression banger motor head that I would like to put some flames or scallops or art work on. I want to then run it on my A Coupe. If the results were positive, I would like to also paint the stock heads on my 8BA. How well would the paint hold up on something like that? Can you use high temp engine paints to do the art work? The head is most of the water jacket area on the 4 banger. Boiling over on the head is 212 degrees F, so an engine paint that is rated 500 degrees or those 1200 degree paints should be no problem for something like that, right? Any thoughts out there?
I know it can be done, 'cause I saw a 29 roadster with a pinstriped flathead at Kalamazoo last weekend. All of the striping looked like it had been there a while, but with the new "patina" craze, you can't be sure. It was black primer, Mexican blanket, white & red striping. It was really a nice piece, with minor touches like wooden clothespins put on the fuel lines as though they were holding it together (they weren't) and a Ford oval on the grille shell that was backwards (the striper painted it that way). I'm not doing it justice -- it REALLY looked like a just-for-fun roadster that I'd be proud to have in my driveway.
I think automotive grade paint would hold up fine. i would have someone pinstripe it, then shoot generous amounts of clear over it. on the plymouth i used house of color candy spanish gold, with ppg 2021 clear. its held up fine so far, i've done many engines like this too.
Paint should hold up fine on your heads or Block. I painted the lettering on my Edelbrock Heads with some model car paint and It hasn't peeled or faded yet.... that was over 4000 miles ago. Any paint should be better then that.
The block and heads and stuff don't actually get that hot, it's the exhaust manifold and the heat that comes off it that cooks stuff. But I know that one of the features of "engine paints" is that they're more resistance to oil and antifreeze and gas and all that other***** that gets down there.
i got an engine a while back from an oldschool lowrider dude... the block, heads, intake, valve covers, everything, were heavily stripped in one-shot, he drove it everywhere for years... the one-shot looked pretty good, even under the oil from the leaks...
[ QUOTE ] I know it can be done, 'cause I saw a 29 roadster with a pinstriped flathead at Kalamazoo last weekend. All of the striping looked like it had been there a while, but with the new "patina" craze, you can't be sure. It was black primer, Mexican blanket, white & red striping. It was really a nice piece, with minor touches like wooden clothespins put on the fuel lines as though they were holding it together (they weren't) and a Ford oval on the grille shell that was backwards (the striper painted it that way). I'm not doing it justice -- it REALLY looked like a just-for-fun roadster that I'd be proud to have in my driveway. [/ QUOTE ] The car you're referring to is(I believe)owned by Gaylord Bayer of Monroe MI and was done this past year with rattle cans.I striped it for him using regular 1-Shot paints.I used medium gray rather than white to give it an aged effect.The grille shell emblem was painted on in reverse so it could be read in a rear view mirror(and cover up some roughness).It has a stock 50 Merc flathead with a C-4******* and is one of the smoothest running cars I've ever ridden in. The ironic thing is this car was actually a 60's era gasser that was campaigned around the Detroit area. safariknut
Ok then. Maybe the head could be painted with one shot, and then a couple coats of clear? I guess I'll go that route. Unless I can get someone to sling some art on there with engine paint. sounds like a limited color pallet though.
Sorry for the post Hijack... but HELLO Safariknut!!!!!! Long time no hear, I hope things are going well for you. Later TDC again sorry for the Hijack.
oneshot is an enamel paint, which basically means that it'll take a damn long time to dry...if you clear over sriping that isn't completely dry, the striping will ribbon ...meaning the clear will bond to the one shot, before the one shot can bond to the striped surface...adding a drop or two of hardener will speed up the drying process. just a tip i picked up from a painter friend.
[ QUOTE ] you better watch out putting clear on one shot [/ QUOTE ] Don't know about putting clear over 1-Shot on a surface that is exposed to temperature extremes,but I have cleared over 1-Shot many times successfully both with it dry and semi-dry. I usually use PPG 2021 and make the first two passes very lightly(mist coat)about 15 minutes apart,wait an additional 15 minutes and then wet-coat.Very rarely the stripes will "ribbon" and it is usually because either the mist coats were too heavy or there wasn't enough time between coats.Just what I have experienced. safariknut
I mix a little PPG DCX61 High Solids Hardener with my One Shot and reduce with lacquer thinner when I want to shoot a urethane clear over it. I always "mist coat" the first coat or two of clear as an added precaution. I haven't had one instance of lifting, wrinkling, or ribboning since I started using this method.
No. 2. Cheers, Drewfus (P.S. please don't ask any questions about the 4 banger, you'll just have to wait...... ))
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