Projects Powder Coating on a Traditional hot Rod?

That's one of powders' major flaws; you can't really touch it up if it gets damaged. But if it's durability you want, it beats paint all to hell....

 

Paint.

 

I get some stuff powdercoated - mainly small brackets and similar. It is easy to tell from paint. I like to paint parts with a brush though. I use a high quality Tekaloid paint. Done right this looks very right for a 1930's car. It also has a lot of advantages in terms of cost and convenience.

Have a look at this thread;

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-tradition-of-brush-painting-a-hot-rod.949505/

 

Whats Powdercoating? Pete

 

I've powder coated some 34 Packard parts. Nice glossy black and you simply can't tell. Cheaper than paint too. It's all dependent upon the company you use. If you powder in a real high gloss nobody can tell. Some day soon I'll do a whole Packard frame. There's another hook to this topic as well, and that's paint over powder. It works real well and provides a really strong substrate to lay paint over. You want to scuff it real well, apply a conservative coat of adhesion promoter (I like "Bulldog" brand), and get the paint just right for 1 coat application. Durability and that "look" that many seek. Rough parts? Powder primer works well too and again a really substantial base for paint.

 

Hey, it's just fine with YOU as you ran a thread on "hiding disc brakes" on a so called traditional rod.

Like I said, compromises lead a total fail.

next thing is we will find out is that a repro axle looks just like a Henry axle
.

 

I've had many parts powder coated ,especially ones that get exposed to road rocks and chip seal. Holds up well. I powder coated my whole frame on my current project this time.

 

My post really does apply to you I never once claimed to be building a 100% period correct traditional rod. I am however building a very neat traditionally inspired hot rod.

 

is this a real thread? We need more build threads please.

 

Problem I have with powder coating is that it is thick and changes all the dimensions, if you build to close tolerance you'll have problems with getting the powdercoated parts to go back into where they should go before powder coating.
On a frame you can develop cracks under the coating, you won't see it on the surface. NHRA has made powdercoating of frames, cages etc illegal for that reason.
There are pieces that benefit from the protection of powdercoating, pick and chose.

 

I dont get it, your redoing a car and would rather use inferior coatings (paint) on the chassis because it (powder) didnt exist back then?
Even when its done you cant tell the difference between powder and paint except for the superior durability of powder.
That should answer your question easily enough.

 

get a better powdercoater that uses premium powders and a good set up, not using $100. application gun.
If done properly with Tribo technology, I can do chain jewelry etc etc and its thin and evenly applied. It ALL depends on equipment and skill level.

 

I used to powder coat parts and hate it. Sure it looks nice. Pain in the ass to strip it off, pain in the ass to touch up, its heavy, and thick. Fucks up bolt holes. Get any rust underneath from a scratch or chip and its ruined. I would never buy a frame that's powder coated.

 

There's a certain irony in this thread. Instead of getting opinions on the web, a real traditionalist would check with fellow club members or the guys that hung out at the corner gas station. What a waste of bandwidth!

 

Well, since I started this waste of bandwidth, I guess I should post a follow-up and waste some more. I am surprised that so many of you can't tell the difference between powder coating and paint. I notice it right away, and that's why I asked the original question.

Thank you all for your opinions. They are what I asked for, and I'm surprised to get so many. But you know what they say, "everybody's got one." We all have to decide where we will draw the "correctness" line on anything we build, and your input has been helpful. The nice thing about Hot Rods is that "there are no rules." But then some of us self-impose some rules by setting out to build a "period correct" car. I'm sure I'll bend some of those self-imposed rules before it's all over, but for something as obvious (at least to me and the other "Effing 1%-ers") as the chassis finish, I'm going to go with a finish which would have been used by a po' boy back in the day who was trying to do a good job of building a Hot Rod. I'll use chassis paint and apply it with a brush. Thank you all for your help.

 

Wasn't a stupid question...but I can point you to some that are

So what's the build? Hope you'll post it up for us!

 

I've used a matt cast-iron look powder coat on suspension parts for muscle car era cars that are going to be used a lot. It looks good, and I would use it again for that.

 

Some things are powder coated and traditional.

 

Mmm, fat pills!

 

Doesn't seem like a bad way to go..... To me

 

X2, my thoughts exactly!!!

 

One of the reasons that powder coating is less costly than paint is that there isn't any hazmat fees involved & no disposal issues involved for thinners & ect.

 

As long as you don't buy the powder from Macs with their exhorbitant ship... oh, that's a whole 'nother thread here...

 

I don't have a problem with it either, its too rich for my blood but if someone else powder coats that is fine by me.

The question becomes why does it make a difference. Is this a period perfect rod or a period styled rod? Is the frame exposed or is it under a boat fendered car? Will the car be shot with lacquer or with modern paint?

 

This sounds like a question on fordbarn from someone doing a high point show car. My recommendation would be to powder coat in areas where it makes sense.

Charlie Stephens

 

time and a place for everything.
i am not a purist but i do prefer paint. but i can totally get why some one might want to have some things powder coated..............ever paint wire wheels?....................without runs?.....................and do it cost friendly?

 

Pete,


Powder coating is an alternative coating to paint. First the part is cleaned, usually by sandblasting. It needs to go into the powder coating process quickly after is sandblasted. The powder coater that I use will only powder coat items that he has sandblasted. If rust starts under the powder coat it will spread and cause peeling. The part is suspended from a wire and an electric charge is applied. A plastic powder is then sprayed onto the part. The thickness will be uniform since too much will not stick. The powder will be attracted to areas where it is not directly sprayed (the back of spokes on wire wheels). Next the part goes into an oven to be cured, which means basically the plastic powder is melted. When cooled the part will have a very hard durable surface. Since the curing requires about 400 degrees most body fillers will not survive or will show through the finished work (talk to whoever is doing the powder coating). Be sure you get a shop that understands the different powders as each one has different characteristics (gloss, resistance to sunlight etc). This process is good for the environment since there are no volatile solvents released like there are when paint dries (water based paint excepted). This is a process used frequently for patio furniture. Be sure to get a powder coater that is used to the quality required for cars and not patio furniture. I think this is the best process to use for welded spoke wire wheels (like the 1928-35 Ford wheels) and engine splash pans (where high resistance to spilled gas and oil is desirable). It would probably crack if used on adjustable spoke or bent spoke Kelsey wire wheels.


Charlie Stephens

 

I live in a fairly metro area and know a few guys in the powder coating business. I have used one shop a dozen-or-so times with OT projects (some home and OT auto stuff). I've seen the finishes that they can achieve. And, like most things, prep work dictates quality.

As well, I've spoken to a few guys that build 32 frames, professionally, and the topic of paint v. powder has come up.

So, speaking of frames only, since that's the only item I've considered with my coupe project, this is what I've gleaned.

One guy/shop likes when his frames are powdered and then the exterior of the rails are painted. With powder, the process of getting substrate in hard-to-reach areas ( like behind dimpled boxing and such plates) because of "static charge" that attracts powder into the hard-to-reach area. If I am talking out of my rear, correct me - please.

Another guy/shop whom uses the same dimpled boxing plates didn't care about the tough-to-reach places as it's not a concern from his standpoint. Of course, he paints at his place, as well. And - his finishes are immaculate. I assume that part of his reluctance is that he makes money for his labor. And, partly, he's right that it likely doesn't matter all that much. It's likely that he uses a weld-through primer, which offers some corrosion protection. As well, there are products (not finishes) to put into those areas to prevent rust like Wurth Cavity Wax.

From what I understand, getting paint in difficult places can be accomplished with paint, too, but wands/attachments are required and it's not a step that many take. Again, if I'm wrong or there's more info on this, please correct me.

 

people worry about the strangest things on here sometimes.

 

Not trying to be a dick, but are you gonna gas weld or bolt everything to the chassis - modern mig and tig welds are a dead giveaway too - much more so than paint vs powder