Projects Powder Coating on a Traditional hot Rod?

I must be OK with powdercoating. I like to go as fast as other cars on the road and I sure as hell like to stop as fast. Guess that makes me non-traditional, even tho the avatar appears pretty stock.

 

Its your car and your money.
I am currently the caretaker of a few cars that were built back in the day. I personally would not upgrade the finish on any of them to any newer surface finish technology. But that's just me.
On the cars I have that are recreations from back in the day, its all fair game. After all, its not really from back in the day, just made to look that way.
Hopefully you are building it to make yourself happy, not the critic at a car event that is going to pick your ride apart because it's powder coated and not paint.

 

Charlie I was being a Smartass!! Now I feel like a Dumdass!!! Thanks for taking the time to explain the process!! Pete

 

I considered that as a possibility and read your post a couple of times. Without talking to somebody directly it is sometimes hard to tell whether a comment is serious or not. I decided to play it safe and err on the side of giving too much information.

Charlie Stephens

 

I don't understand why you think powder coat is superior to liquid paint process. The only real benefit of powder coat is cost per square foot due to being able to recycle the powder, other than that, you can build paint to be just as durable, dry as fast without heat, have very similar chip resistance. I even make a liquid that can be baked 350 for 15 mins.

 

I'll toss a factual answer up for this question.
go ahead and spray your liquid mix up and then get something that was powdered correctly with good powders, not overseas poop thats out there, put both in a sandblaster and see what strips off faster.
Powder as you know does not require messy thinners, reducers, filters, rubber gloves etc etc etc.

btw, if you go somewhere and they are "recycling" their powders, go somewhere else to get your work done. Also, no way you can get liquid paint to dry and cure fully before I can yank a coated and baked to cure part out of the oven, no way, not even close.

 

TIG welding has been around as long as hot rods. These threads get a little silly sometimes. Really, in my opinion, if you REALLY have to ask some of these questions, you probably don't need to know the answer.
There are those that aren't going to use powder coat on a period-correct hot rod build, and they already know why, and it has nothing to do with the casual observer. No one is going to piss on your posies if you do, anymore than if you use a modern cam grind. Hell, very few observers are going to know whether you have a T-5, a '39 toploader or a Cad/Lasalle in your car. Honestly even the most hard-core traditional guy wont notice or care on most cars if the frame is powder-coated or not unless theres a HELL of a lot else that has REALLY drawn him in, and he is REALLY looking closely at the car. Speaking for myself, at a big show, how many cars do I look at that closely? Four, maybe five? Most cars you look at, its pretty casual, unless theres stuff going on that really draws your attention.
For those on the other side of that fence, we know where and why we will or wont, and I get the feeling the OP knows as well. If you are fine using powder coated parts on your "traditional" hot rod, well no big deal, not to me at least.

 

Talk about carrying things to the point of being stupid

 

Hasn't anyone thought of painting over powder-coating? Powder-coat for the consistent basic protection, and paint over it for the finish - especially if it's a brush finish on chassis parts etc. you're after.

I got the idea when sitting at a local burger joint, where the decades-old aluminium window frames had been summarily painted over to get them to match the decor. It had that comfortable, lived-in feel of old painted wooden frames, and it struck me as a solution for additions-and-alterations jobs where I'm stuck with existing powder-coated aluminium frames but would have preferred timber. Sand lightly, one coat of thixotropic satin enamel for texture, and then one or more top coats of gloss.

 

Do it the way you like. It's all good with me, not that my opinion or anyone else's is gospel.

 

I'll chime in once more, and from the shop owner perspective. It's a very cost effective way to coat something that has to be nice. Hell, I'd powder a Duesenberg frame with my source. Well, maybe, but in general the cost is the same or less than materials required to paint it. Now you can beat the price difference by going with something like PPG "Shop-Line" stuff but then there's the stripping/blasting service (I only do small stuff in-house), not to mention the labor costs involved to final prep, set up, prime and paint. The average vintage frame runs about $750-$900. I can't begin to match the quality or time for that. As to excess build and such, as was mentioned it's all based on your supplier and the products used. For home builders, you gonna set all your body parts outdoors and cover everything in your home garage to avoid the mess? There's times where certain things make good sense. And as far as brush painting a frame, seriously? I can see it now, a really bitchin chopped A coupe with $6000 worth of flathead and go-fast parts, professional upholstery, rare gauges, perfect stance and suspension on Deuce rails, deep black paint...with brush marks on the frame. Right. I guess I have to agree with the idea that being traditional MUST include the work being done on a dirt floor garage with a single light bulb in the middle of it too, yes? Newer processes do not disrespect tradition. To some, maybe, but not here. I wouldn't tell anyone but my client where the powder parts are in a restoration, and nobody's picked em out yet. Must have a good source.

 

IMHO, powder coating is very convenient and cost effective for us Joe Rodders. And of course it looks great. But unless you take great pains to prep the chassis or parts, in my experience every blemish shows thru, even simple stuff like a scribe line. And unlike what some others have said above, I find it "thin" not "thick" because it still chips as easily as regular paint - it isn't bullet proof (or IMRON), after all. You'll still need to chase threads regardless of paint used, eh? Matching repaired spots can also be a problem. But I'll use it again and again for chassis stuff. It is falling off a log easy if you don't want to / can't paint it yourself. If I had the skills, I'd go with in the acetone / Rustoleum mix for durability and finish on the frame and body. Gary

 

It seems that most of the threads lately turn into a debate instead of a discussion and if it goes on long enough it turns into a pissing match.

It's real interesting that a newbie started this debacle.

Don't use powder coating or a t-5 behind your Flathead and call it period correct. HRP

 

Hotrodprimer ,I agree

 

Ok define"factual answer" because here is my factual answer.
Maybe you have never seen polyurea coatings, so a little fact for you, if powder coat is so durable why isnt it explosion resistant like polyurea. Blast powder coat, then blast polyurea and that completely proves you wrong. Some of the new military bullet proof vest are butlap sprayed with that, and it has full cure in 20 seconds. One form of polyurea you have probably seen is Line-X bedliner. Another coating that is more durable is linear polyester, it has a film as hard but is more flexible. Most all aerospace is sprayed with this.

As for curing within 30 mins yes it can be cured, no problem without heat. This technology has been available for over 6 years, Sherwin came out with it in Automotive. as for heat- paint can be cured just like powder. There are thousands of industrial assembly lines that paint on a assembly line then goes through a 15 min bake cycle, then stacked on pallets. This coating is called thermoset coatings, all your car manufacturers use this process as well. We can build products easier for whatever process with paint.
And your theory on recycled powder is wrong to. There is nothing wrong with recycled powder, all it is is a vacuum that collects overspray powder, EVERY large professional powder coat company does this. There is no difference between your virgin powder and the over spray powder collected at the end of a shift. Also you are suppose to have filters for powder coat, and powder coat also releases formaldehyde so the use of a respirator should be required. But you are right with the use of clean up thinner but you need that around the shop anyway, never know when you will run out of starting fluid.

 

Some people say that I actually am an effing 1%er but it has nothing to do with paint.

I personally am a big fan of lacquer and I just love the look of nitrocellulose lacquer. It is just sweet as sugar pie when done properly. I am not sure that you can still get it, but acrylic lacquer is still available.

There are some cars that were lacquered in the '50s and '60s that I know of or have seen that the paint is still solid as a rock. Some times it is crazed from vibration, weather and being blown on too thick. They just look right to me. The thing with lacquer is it is not a blow it on and leave it type of paint, you need to protect it and that is done with a soft rag some past wax and elbow grease. If you are not going to care for it then a more modern application is your best bet. I would not lacquer chassis unless it was an out in the breeze chassis like a deuce frame.

OK off my box.

I like single stage enamel for a chassis, in general. I think that powder coating processes vary but most of what I see just looks plastic to me.

 

I agree Danny. Too much time attacking anymore and not enough time giving advice and letting it go. The best advise is not vocalized but shown by example with lots of patience.

 

While in Sioux City, Ia and before my real knowledge of traditional hot rods was known I found a place that made farm equipment. I was looking to get some items on my '29 RPU powder coated and the fellow there suggested to me to run the entire vehicle through. Well, the price was right and away it went. The entire vehicles sheet metal minus the gas tank (fear of explosion) was done while they were running a bunch of parts to be pc'd black.
Would I do it now knowing what I know......absolutely.
It eventually got sold and a hop'd up B motor got installed along with a T5. The pc is holding up real well.

 

I wouldn't mind having a powder coated frame and suspension, I don't mind the look.
But over here it will cost me a sh1t load of money, and I can paint it three times over with industrial enamel.

So that's what I do.
Please don't shoot me, but I have a long time (wet) dream about doing a car with powder coated frame, and suspension stainless front axle and trim, with a fiberglass body. Take a road trip to Bonneville, race it, and never ever wash it again

But I know I'm weird!

 

Honestly who really cares. Build your car for you the way you want. Don't be afraid to do something that wouldn't have been done in 1940 because it didn't exist. I highly doubt any of us have built a 100% period correct car.
I miss the old HAMB. Where talented guys shared ideas and builds, not debated what paint is more traditional or what technique should be used to apply it. Some of you guys need to spend less time on the HAMB criticizing others and more time actually building something.

 

me too! but i am not telling which paragraphs i agree with you on.

 

I've powdercoated a lot of my stuff,bike parts,car parts etc.Its cheaper for me to powdercoat them than painting them and i dont have a proper spot for the paintjob.
Last time i did it was last sunday,sandblasted parts with one of my bros,then drop them for the powdercoater early at monday morning before i went to work.
Someone mentioned that powdercoating sucks,because it fucks up threads and its hard to strip.
Ofcourse it fucks the threads,if you dont cover the threaded holes with bolts before the powdercoating operation.
And it is hard to strip,but i've used paint stripper when i have to get rid off that stuff.
I dont say is it wrong or right way to get the job done,but thats my way to do it.

 

I'll throw my .02 into this discussion... LOL. I'm a DIYer, and have been powdercoating my own parts for probably 6-7 years now (if not longer). The powder vs paint debate is a bit pointless, as while they both have pluses and minuses, as usual it 'depends'. There's some stuff I wouldn't even think of powdercoating (visible sheetmetal, many 'assemblies' to name two) but for some stuff it's ease of use and low cost are hard to beat. Eight ounces of powder will coat a LOT of small parts (even if you don't 'recycle' the overspray) and at generally $15 or less per eight ounces of quality powder, is cheaper than paint. For those who say that it chips/peels/cracks, well if you've had that issue, it wasn't done right. In fact, that's probably one of it's bigger minuses; properly applied, the stuff is a bitch to get off if you need to remove it (I use a propane torch and a wire brush as that seems to be the least messy and fastest method). I also like the fact that most powders are nearly impervious to common automotive chemicals (a claim that most paint can't make). Now, because of it's relative ease of application, there's a lot of coaters out there over-promoting it, making claims that really aren't justified. As to getting the right 'look', if you select the right powder and apply it right you can get a finish that will be very nearly indistinguishable from paint.

And just like paint, there are certain things you need to do to get a good finish. Not all the same things (which seems to be hard for some to get) as powder has it's own 'tricks'.

 

so much for comparing powder to paint....sigh

 

Here's a follow-up. I used Nason Chassis Black paint and applied it with a brush, and it looks just like powder coat!

Just shittin' ya', I think it looks great, and it's "the look" I was after. The right amount of sheen, without being glossy. This afternoon I'll roll her over and do the top side. When I get a little farther along, I'll start a new thread about the build.

 

that's what an 85 year old frame should look like.

 

You a cop?

 

You a comedian?

 

Use the right paint and brush marks drop out. I brush painted my O/T chassis. If it had been powdercoated it would have been a complete strip down and, in addition to the cost of powder coating, I would have had to replace seals and other parts costing around £100. The Tekaloid paint cost around £25 plus a few quid for abrasives.

It's not slap it on process though, takes time and effort to get a good finish. This particular paint is called "Raddle" and has a satin finish.

 

I'm just happy when I get something done enough to get paint or powder.
Let's see some pics.