Power windows in Hot Rod question

Folks. I am trying to add power windows in the'37 Plymouth Truck I'm working on. I have these Dorman switches and need to wire them (they each have 5 odd pins on the back for the connections). I found these harness "pigtails" that look like they would work. Anyone have experience with these or something like them? Thank you.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Those are 80's GM power window switches. Any GM that used them would have the double or quadruple switch on the driver's side and single on all other doors. If the routing that @pprather posted isn't clear for you, look up the wiring diagram for a 1980 C10 with power windows, or something of the like. My 86 Caprice has those switches.

 

https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/help-me-wire-my-power-windows.149088/

 

Pprather, thanks for sending that, I had seen it too but didn't pay enough attention to it. I am going to wire in one, each, single switch. A little different than the production cars. It looks like I only use four of the five pins if doing it the way I'm thinking. I don't think I am going to use a relay but thank you for the diagram. If I decide to, that will help.

I'm hoping someone will "chime in" who has used a harness pigtail like I show with these switches. the advertisement doesn't indicate that it is specifically for those switches but I am going to chance it they'll work...

I do appreciate all you fella's help though.

 

If you have good window regulators for your truck. Don’t butcher them making them power. You may be wishing for them

 

Yeah what he said!!!
I had power windows on my shoebox and they are kinda like owning a boat…you’re the happiest when they are first installed and working, and when you pull them out because they are the biggest pain in the ass you have ever dealt with

 

I have Power windows in the 51 and they have been working without fail for 20+ years. With the Stock window handle nobody knows, and I never mention it. Couldn't be happier and now you're the only other one that knows. And Yes, Moriarity is spot on correct about relays.

 

Agreed. If you can't find regulators for your vehicle they're a viable option. If you have manual regulators, don't bother with power windows.

 

I used the GM switches in mine and even with the relays they were iffy. The switches that you used are way better made than the GMs obviously

 

Thanks guys. The truck already had power windows (from whoever initially hot rodded the truck); they were wired with toggle switches. I'm trying to make it all work with those GM switches...

 

Over the years I've had a few aftermarket window issue come in the shop. Generally slow moving or not smooth movement. I cured most of them by adding a 10-gauge ground wire to the systems. Seems a lot of home builders think the lubricated (or not) hinge pins will pass a good enough ground.

 

Pist-n-Broke, Thank you for that information. I will do that.

 

Here's one of my go to's on our Vintage cars. Most of them have stand-alone door check straps. If yours is Old enough not to have them they are easy enough to add. You don't want bare wire just passing through the door jamb! I add this, what seems to be a bit silly for some car guys but given the number of what seems common sense questions on here, why not? This add photo is from Juliano's. I couldn't get the braded steel looms to edit out and you couldn't give them to me but the S.S. Tube units I install often. They are in my avatar and were a direct replace unit for the Stock ones. 2 10-gauge wires are all you need passing into the door no matter how many power units you have in the door, window, door and mirror. You can figure it out. Hope it helps.

 

Thank you.

 

These are probably what I needed more than anything for mine but way back then all they made were the corrugated split tubing that you had to replace every couple of years because they crushed. I like these

 

I was hand building a product like this before these were available anywhere.

 

I have those GM switches in my Olds, they work fine 57 years later. I replaced the drivers switch when one of the levers broke and would return to the neutral position. Went to the wrecking yard and bought another one out of an old A body, still works fine. Last year the left door switch failed but ended up being the back of the switch (a phenolic material) had loosened and let one of the connectors come lose. Some epoxy and it works like new.

My T/As all had PW's and Pontiac put the GM switches on the console of those cars. That wasn't very bright. People spill their beers...I mean coffees on them, the T-tops leak water on them, they fill with dirt and dust, etc. Not the switches' fault but the designers. I always had to replace them to make the windows work properly.

 

Guys, I wanted to follow up on this regarding the pin connects on the Dorman power window switch.
Here are the pin assignments (tested to work):

 

Also, I bought these connectors that work with the switches...