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Powerglide Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dooley, Feb 28, 2006.

  1. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    Finally got the motor running, my next question is how long does it take for a new ******, with a ,probably, empty torque converter to build enough pressure to move the car.

    With the rear end off the ground the tires move in the right directions in each gear, drive low and reverse, but it does not seem to have any ooomph behind it, I can stop the wheel with my hand.

    I ran the car for about 15 min, and it has 9 qts of fluid?

    Is this normal or not?
     
  2. Thumper
    Joined: Mar 7, 2005
    Posts: 1,610

    Thumper
    Member

    9 qts? If it was totally empty it should take about 12 I think. Just add a qaurt at a time and keep checking the dipstick in park on level ground.
     
  3. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,022

    squirrel
    Member

    what does the dipstick say? does it have a diptsick?
     
  5. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    It shows past the full mark when cold, I have not had a chance to check it when running, and I have the rear end up off the ground so it may be reading off.
     
  6. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    level hot and running, preferably in park, then check again:) the converter has to "fill" up and thats why its high when off, cold
     
  7. are you using the bell crank thingy
    it connects to the carb and changes pressure compared to how much you have your foot in it
    tom
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,022

    squirrel
    Member

    if the brakes work...get the car on the ground, level, start the engine, run it thru the gears for a few seconds, then back to park. Pull the dipstick, wipe it off well, put it in all the way, pull it and look carefully at both sides to see where the oil level really is. Fill it only to the "add" mark, since it's cold (you need to drive for several miles to get it warmed up all the way). Repeat the whole check and fill proceedure each time you add some fluid, and go slow, it will get too full all of a sudden if you're not careful. Add only half a quart at a time.
     
  9. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    I filled it now, with 9 qts.

    When it is on all four tires nothing happened when I put it in gear, either back or front, that may be when it was building up pressure.

    I gues I need to know how long it should be before it moves on it's own.
     
  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,022

    squirrel
    Member

    If it has enough fluid, it will move immediately! If it doesn't move then it's low, or there is a serious problem with the trans.
     
  11. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    Could I be wrong on how much ATF to use?
     
  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,022

    squirrel
    Member

    Yes, you need to check how much fluid is in it, using the proceedure I gave above. Fluid level is critical, and checking it properly is not as easy as some folks think it should be.
     
  13. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    when you installed it, how did you put the converter on? did you put it on the trans and spinit until it "fell" into the pump drive? or put it on the engine first, then line it up later? it may not be pumpimg, and thats why 9 qts got you to full
     
  14. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    Sounds like a possible converter issue to me, too. Either not installed correctly, or a bad converter, or bad pump.

    (You didn't try to use a TH350 converter or anything, right?)

    To properly install a torque converter, you need to gently push it into place while spinning it by hand. It should 'click' in twice to seat all the way home. If it doesn't, then you have a problem and need to check the converter snout, pump, and splines to see what's up.

    If it's installed properly and the fluid is up to the correct level, it should move as soon as you drop it into gear.

    (Is this a stock torque converter, or an aftermarket stall converter?)
     
  15. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    Stock converter, and I pushed and turned when it was installed. It clicked twice.

    I did have to pull it back some to mee the flywheel, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

    Like I said the tires move when there is no load, I'll try it today to see.
     
  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,022

    squirrel
    Member

    Since you had to pull it back towards the flexplate to bolt it up, then it's probably in correctly.
     
  17. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    Squirrel is right, it should come out about an eighth inch or so to bolt up.

    Are you sure your shifter is adjusted right? If it's hanging up between detents the trans won't want to go into gear all the way.

    Could also be dirt in the valve body, or a plugged up filter screen.

    Is this a fresh trans or an old/used one?
     
  18. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    Fresh, rebuilt and never run.
     
  19. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    At this point then, just based on what you've said so far, I'd say the most likely problems would be:

    1. Insufficient fluid level.

    2. Insufficient line pressure in the transmission.

    3. Improperly adjusted shifter.

    4. Faulty torque converter.

    5. Dirt in the valve body.

    My brother-in-law went through a similar frustration last year with his car and it turned out to be a bum torque converter. It happens.
     
  20. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    Well 'she a no work'.

    I had her running and the fluid does not seem to be moving at all.

    With the car in any gear no movement, and with it running in park the fluid level is not moving either.

    It moves with the rear end off the ground, but not even a clunk or anything with it sitting on the tires.

    Linkage is good, cause I ran it through when the rear was jacked up and it did move back-front etc.

    It has a manual shift body, so I was told, and the vac modualtor is capped.

    Are there any adjustments that can be made to this pig, or anything I can do beofre I have to unbolt everything and pull the motor again?

    Please?
     
  21. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    No fluid moving sounds like the pump isn't turning (not engaged properly with the coverter), or the pump is bad, or there's a serious problem in the valve body somewhere. Disconnect one of the transmission lines and direct it into a container of some sort. Start it up and see what happens. You should have a good deal of fluid coming out under pressure. If not, you'll have to yank the transmission and see what's wrong.
     
  22. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,022

    squirrel
    Member


    where is the fluid level on the dipstick, engine running?
     
  23. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    It shows way past full, about 5 or six inches up.

    I am using the lokar flex dipstick.
     
  24. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,022

    squirrel
    Member

    THose lokar things are a real pain in the ****!

    first drain out enough fluid to get it to the "add" mark, recheck it a few times to make sure that's where it actually is when running, and see if it works.

    way too much fluid will cause problems, it turns to foam.
     
  25. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    Should I pull one of the ****** lines to see if it is pumping or wait until I drain some.

    I may have had fluid in the conveter, and then added an addtional 9 qts, or I may be screwed.
     
  26. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    if it pumps out fluid, you may be ok. only run it for 10 seconds, don't run it dry. never too late for 3 pedals
     
  27. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    Here is some more info.
    This ****** was rebuilt 20 years ago and has sat since.

    Someone told me I may need to run it for awhile in case something is stuck inside.

    Doee this make any sense?
     
  28. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 9,056

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    That could very well have something to do with it. If an engine was rebuilt 20 years ago and sat idle ever since, there's a good chance it would be seized.
     
  29. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    If the trans got moisture in it at all, that would cause a problem. Condensation and such could have collected over the years and damaged the clutches...but that's a pretty far-fetched scenario.

    (The glue on the clutch material is water soluable...you get moisture in a transmission and it usually isn't long before it's Slip City, as DirtyT can tell you from a past project.)

    I'm still thinking you have a pump issue and/or a converter problem...did you pull a line and check for fluid flow and pressure?
     
  30. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,102

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    Not yet, I plan on running it for ahile to get it warm, I have only run it for about 10 minutes at a time.
     

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