I am installing a iron powerlines (54) and I hooked it to my 235 and started it up and it looked like it was working good. Is there some test or procedure to run it thru before I reinstall the engine and tyranny back in the car? Trying to save a lot of work up front. Thanks Jim
Not being familiar with them, can you check the line pressures? I know it's possible on newer stuff...
It seems like I have pressure, but that might be a good idea. The cooling lines are plugged off right now. I should be able to take out the plug and see what kind of pressure I have.
I don't know if that is the same (using the cooling lines) is there a 1/4 or 1/8th NPT plug on the side of the******* somewhere? Again, I'm going by much newer transmissions, it may not pertain to yours.
You can bench check the pressures by filling the transmission and put a spare yoke at the output shaft. Then install oil pressure gauge at mainline pressure port. With some sort of adapter, spin the torque converter with a large drill gun. You should see the pressure build up. But before doing the above, the transmission usually has a way of removing the valve body and applying air pressure to the various band and clutch ports to see if actuation is occurring for the internal bands/clutches.
That's getting way complicated. The tyranny is hooked to the engine and I started the engine and the tyranny drive turned and would accelerate when I revved the engine. Seems like it's working. Just looking to see if there might be some other way of testing.
You can bench check the pressures by filling the transmission and put a spare yoke at the output shaft. Then install oil pressure gauge at mainline pressure port. ......... With some sort of adapter, spin the torque converter with a large drill gun. You should see the pressure build up. Start the engine Powerline Tyranny is risky business.
Cast iron powerglide?....not so easy, the valve body is between the bellhousing and the clutch drum.... http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/07trans/7_081.HTM has some info about the transmission
I doubt you will get a lot of useful information even if you check the pressures. Those readings could look fine and the trans can still have other problems. Seems like it would be easier to just install and road test. They're not that hard to drop out.
Thanks to all of the people that gave a reply to my problem. Even the smart**** ones. I have been working on the problem and finally determined that I had to open it up and see whats going on inside. Let me explain about the******* first. It was rebuild and sat for a number of years and was never used. So the first thing I found was all of the sliding valves didn't slide. Rust/rust/rust. I am guessing that it was stored without any******* fluid in it, it did have some of the****embly grease on some of the parts. Second thing was it was missing 2 springs, return spring on the reverse and return spring on the hi - lo clutch. Now for the part that I am not sure of. The accumulator on the control body has no parts in the cylinder, no washer, spring, valve, piston( 2 parts to it) and 2 more springs. Looking at the cylinder it looks like it was never bored out, still rough casting with nothing polished. Looking at the master parts catalog it doesn't list any of the accululator parts for a 54 powerglide. It list parts for 50-53 powerglides but nothing for a 54. Is this the year they changed are am I missing something??? Help would be appreciated.....Jim
I've finished with the tyranny. Thanks to Charlie at Charlie's******* for finally telling me that 54 powerglides didn't have an accumulator guts. I put it back together, hooked it to the engine, filled it with oil, and started it up and now have low, drive, and reverse. Hoorah. First time pulling one of those apart. Thanks to all of you guys and Charlie. Give him a yell if you need anything.......Jim
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