Projects Prefect / Willys /Kadett/Thames Gasser Build.

Addressed a small leak in the cooler line. Simply wasn’t completely tightened down. Laid a paper towel down under it to check. Will know in the next day or so.
Also took a look at the right front tire and wheel. It started leaking down. And the front runners are new. Can’t find a single leak. Checked the stem. Noda. Damn shop gremlins

 

Good News no cooler leak. Bad tire still went down.
Round 2

 

Should do the final shake down( Saturday) on run in stands and let her stretch her feet so to speak. Spin em over and run through the gears. Get up to temp and check converter. That’s the plan.
Then cap back on and possible ch***is dyno. Then the Final Cut and buff.
Already looking at the Prefect. Will paint from inside out. And this time unlike the Willy’s I will be able to paint it a piece at a time. All doors /cap /trunk comes off.
And Mick has been at it again. He bought an attachment for the tubing notcher from swag. Let’s you notching side of the tubing from any angle/even in a bend.

 

Got another water pump to replace the one I stole from the Prefect to put on the Willy’s. I’ll unbolt the legs and bolt it on remotely as we designed it.

 

Ok as I stated on another build ( I really have 3 -I guess 4 including helping Wes with the Opel going on at one time ) make that 5 now.
How is this related you ask? Simple. The roof on the Specialty /engine trans shop is terminal. I found out a few days ago that it is actually 41 years old. ( this used to be a Horse Barn -I kinda think it’s appropriate -the original version of horse power. ). It was actually the first shop that Mick started his business in 30 plus ago. And it was actually built by the previous owner. So we can tally at least 41?years total. Shingles typically in our part of the world go a max of 30. Lol
I made some temp repairs /more like slowing the bleeding.( it didn’t show any more leakage after more serious rain - but it is what it is. )
Milling machines and specialty stuff are in here so it’s not even optional.
So this makes 5 builds going on. And yes someone else will do it. I have shingled and done metal tops before ( when younger /and broke). Still broke /still fall really well. Don’t land as good anymore. And my surgeon thought I ****ed at it 30 years ago.

 

Ok. Been a day of days. Ran the Willy’s in on the jacks stands. It went as well as I could ever have hoped.
No leaks. Everything sealed up and new water pump was doing its thing.
Fired up and ran about as well as I could hope for once I got some heat in the motor.
Transmission went through its steps. Low and high /reverse/parks all went well. No leaks. Flash stalled about 4 k. With the foot brake. ( 5500-5800 total stall Fairbanks ).
Shifter was dead on.
Brakes felt really good.
I let it run in about 7-8 min on the stands.
Killed it and let it heat soak. 2 hours later no leaks /or issues.
Technically the Willy’s is finished.
I have 5 things left.
I am really considering tubes in these front runners. The wheels and tires are perfect in every way. Can’t get the p***enger side to seal against the rim. I’ve used about everything there is. No nicks on wheels anywhere. No issues with the beads. But I hate a leaking tire. ( especially if it’s not the slicks themselves.
Number 2. Put the front cap back on. ( hook up lights and /shocks.
Number 3
Need to mount new slicks. ( already have them )
Number 4
I really want to change to a new morris cable for the fuel shut off. I don’t like this one. Route is smooth and the mounts and clamps are from a good source. It’s just two damn tight. I literally have to put out a fair amount of effort. Maybe use a lever and longer arm and ditch the knob.
Number 5
Do the Final Cut and buff. I did the red pad but I still have blue pad and black pad. And really slick it out.
And finally. I know. This is actually 6.
Got an opportunity to put it on a ch***is dyno for a reasonable fee. ( so when we do make the track we at least make a decent showing)
I will also recoat the headers with the white high temp from Eastwood after all is done. I like the white color of the headers but they need a touch up.
So now to Prefect and Opel.
As soon as possible I will start painting and prepping the Prefect. Same color same pattern.
Different is I can actually take in apart. Doors /cap /trunk etc. off and paint one piece at a time. And the main body last. I’ll use the same metallic bed liner from same supplier I did for Willy’s. May roll /brush this on rather than spray. Much smaller area. And it worked well in my 57.
Opel will get a redesign on the drivers controls. Normal steering /pedals /etc, but it will get hand controls as well. And I am going to design a seat that will extend toward the door and rotate. I’ve seen this done on one and Wes needs it. Remember his legs don’t work anymore but he wanted it to be drivable by any one.
Let’s just say Mick has built one that was a mid 5 sec car in the 1/8 and had both. So yes I am confident between one real engineer - Wes - one real deal fabricator - Mick and a dumb *** like me we have a better than average chance of success.
Wes made it over today. So it was really a good day. Build all you can while you can.
Jokers and Thieves

 

And no the roof isn’t fixed yet. That’s what tarps are for until the roofer gets here. And we are going back metal /tin. No more shingles

 

So number two on the list got completed today. ( front cap is back on )Took me and Wes most of the day doing so. Had to move a bunch of stuff around in the small shop and bring the cap from the big shop. Mick was smarter than both of us. He stayed in under the air conditioner. ( 99 today not including the index-100 is expected tomorrow).
Was also glad to confirm that all front end adjustments and changed in engine compartment clear. Tubes and slicks are next along with some cable adjustments. Let’s just say I wish I had an old style hurst shifter cable -not the new bean counter version with the brake line type clips rather than threaded ends and lock nuts. Gonna have to look for a Morrison cable for my fuel system. The one that was sent doesn’t impress me. A quick wipe of the dust with a terry cloth and water and it slicked up pretty fast

 

Looking good!

 

Getting there. Loud bang used to tell me I was good at taking them apart and re***embling them multiple times. I am convinced he may be correct.

 

That quip is good for "The Laugh For The Day"

 

Seems Micky had doubts on whether my tape measure method of setting up front end was accurate. You learn not to open your mouth around him about tools. Camber /caster set up too. Already have the spin tables. ( the wooden balls that allow them to work are made from persimmon wood. You will learn not to repeat something twice. Lol

 

Toe in set at just under an 1/8 toed in. Caster is at 10. Still need to swap out some bolts that have smooth Allen heads.
I do not like specialty/unknown grade bolts in places that I think should be grade 8. The front end hardware in some kits isn’t always what it seems. I like knowing where it came from.
Made that decision while setting up front end this afternoon. Also even though smooth head and Allen head stuff looks good in some places I still don’t like if it’s not used all the way through. The only time I usually do is for clearance requirements/or tight spaces. Just a personal thing. Each to his own

 

So you all taking it apart and putting it back together yet AGAIN?

 

Actually Yes LOL . I am going to put it back on the lift and do a quick swap on the bolts and set everything back up with no weight on it . The spring pilots are not centered in the spring pad hole and even though that's not a big thing to some I fix will fix that and drop a plum- bob and check centerlines now while changing the hardware out. It will be easy and wont take long. The race car builder in me comes out more than Id like to admit at times.

 

Check this out. Mick said he bought a birthday present for everyone in the shop. He wasn’t kidding. Look what showed up.
Can you believe it didn’t come with a test engine. Wes said to send it back. Lol

 

Working today on run in stand. Must admit more adjustable than I thought it would be. Wished I had done this to the Willy’s engine first and then put it in.
This is the Prefect engine. Mick bought some scratch /dent ceramic coated headers for less than 200 $. Wow

 

Tach adapter for vertex /mag for run in stand. Like to have never got one.

 

Find the smallest drill you have in you tools and spin it back and forth with your fingers vertical into that blood under your nail and when it pops through the nail it's a relief like you wouldn't believe as it releases the pressure built up.

 

Lol. Got in caught under the edge of the box brake doing a reverse flange. Clamped my thumb before the panel.

 

All the suspension hardware swapped to grade 8. Some of the hardware was Allen head and Allen head smooth with no grade marks. I don’t like a specialty bolt etc unless clearance is an issue. I like to have as much as possible with conventional stuff so very few real specialty tools are required. Allen /smooth head stuff looks good but not as suspension or drivetrain bolts.
Let every thing hang loose after re***embly. Then gradually tightened everything up and made sure no binding or side loading. Centered the steering wheel. Not hard but took all day. Lol

 

New shoes for the rear. Went with a little shorter slick this time. 31X13 s. I will not speak of the amount but between the two new slicks and new tubes I have built nice small blocks back in the day.
This is why I usually buy take offs from sportsman racers etc. some of them change every 10-12 p***es. And I can by them for about 175/200$ a set. This is a size I wanted to try and see if it would give me the slight rake I wanted on the Willy’s. The 33 that were on it were almost too much. I like dead level or a slight rake. For the first time in 30 years I actually had to use a tire machine to get the 33s off. Don’t know why but I usually use 3 very worn screw drivers and that’s it and usually takes about 5 min a side. I spent half a day and could not get it to budge on one. So off to the home of chrome tojuse carls tire machine.
mounted them as always with lot lots of baby powder. Did something different this time. A sportsman racers and even a few other suggested I not use screws this time but to use Permatex 80026 high tack. We will see. I didn’t want to drill these wheels anyway. And it saved some effort. I’ll install tomorrow.

 

Sit out a little wider. Not sure I lost any height. I was hopping to loose a little of the rake we will see.

 

On my 33 Willys build (space is very tight) I used stainless Block Hugger
Headers ordered off Inter net (made in China...Fit was OK, a little close
around the plugs. Welding was very good & price was Cheap) Going on
a street car & did not have room for long tubes. Then if you are going to
alter them it may be a good start. good luck Jerry Drye

 

I scratch built all of ours but the front tilts and it’s not a street car. I need to Re coat them.
I am also going to put heat shielding on the fuel shut off cable. Got a new one apparently a 2 inch gap isn’t enough to keep it from having issues because of header heat.

 

New fuel shut off cable installed . I did put a heat shield sleeve on. ( it may get painted or something that silver covering looks like s**X). I really would have thought that 1 1/2 inches of air gap between the cable and the inside header tube would be enough. It didn’t even melt the outside cover. But the inside liner is apparently melted. I can’t even get the solid core of the cable out to inspect. I had used an adel clamp to ch***is. I am going to make a bracket that will keep at least 3 plus inches. Still don’t know how it didn’t melt out side cover. All appears well but that heat shielding sleeve still looks like ****.

 

Ok. Wes came to the river today and we got a fair amount done.
First. Headers have been touched up with the ceramic coating. Look much better. In some ways I wished I had sent those off to be jet /hot coated like we did with the Donovan but man talk about pricey these days. I am looking for a high temp coating (white ) that I can put on with a brush for touch up. Eastwood has such a material but not in white.
Still need to make bracket for a the cut off cable to hold at safe distance from inside tube.
Moved the Opel into the machine shop today and the Prefect into the big shop where the paint booth is. Time to start taking apart and painting from inside out. Unless I change my mind it will be red like the Willys. I have no idea what Wes is thinking about painting the Opel but you never know with him. We moved it over to start setting the hand controls up and we are actually considering a flip body But I need it there so we can start measurements and engineer the controls to him specifically ( no this is not the first one that has been constructed here with hand controls.

 

Fuel shut off cable mount and heat shield complete. Let’s hope 3 inches is enough space between headers and cable .

 

Actually got to work on Prefect today. It’s been moved to big shop. Decided to remove the hinge pins in the rear doors. And will do the same for the trunk as well.
I want everything ( doors/ trunk /front cap ) to be removable for full access.
As always Eastwood tools don't disappoint. It would have been impossible to get the pins out with out destroying the hinges /etc. Will drill over size and use quick bead pins. ( like the shifter release pins). Lack one more. And then to the trunk.

 

Job well done ... it looks real good