Hot Rods Preferred sized trailer for 1932 Roadster

I agree with buying the biggest trailer you can tow. It becomes marginally more expensive to level up over the purchase that barely cuts it, and you'll appreciate having the space. My cars are enormous, so I bought a 24" box that I am able to tow with my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500. The trailer will even comfortably accommodate my 56 Olds 98 with a continental kit. It has helped to pay for itself when relatives have needed to move and I can take whole trailers full of stuff from place to place. They're not just for cars.

 

I was a design exercise. [being a racer, I get obsessed with low weight, low CG etc]
For comparison , if I built it the same length as your "Featherlite" it would weigh 1099 lbs [an extra 43lbs would be needed for the main runners]
The reason I built the deck 15' [4.6m] is because this was longest length I could get guillotined in my city.
I purchased 1 length of Zinc/ Galv sheet at 1.8 wide [6']
They cut it off the coil at whatever length I wanted BUT getting it "slit" lengthways [2 x .900] required a minimum of 10 x sheets.

The actual deck had 344 bs of steel in it [excluding the tongue and suspension hangers] so as I mentioned previously there is not much "wiggle room" for weight savings.
Fixed components like wheels, tyres, leaf springs , bolts etc still weigh the same regardless of design parameters.

 

@Kerrynzl is a man of many talents for sure.
But I think his wife knows as much as he does!

 

My Alcon Stealth weighs just over 3300 pounds with a 7100 pound capacity on 10,500 pound axles.
I pull it with a 2020 1500 Silverado 6.2 liter quad cab. I just returned form the coast with my 41 Ford PU in the trailer and I did 60 plus through the passes, you cannot fell it back there. My trucks tracks fuel economy with trailer in tow, over 4 years I average 13.6 MPG. That aint bad. My Olds gets 8. my only bitch is my truck only has a 24 gallon fuel tank so I can't quite make it the beach and back without refueling.

 

Really? I need one more thing to insure, but...

 

Shhhhh!!

Mike , I'll have to show you my latest project once it is finished [I've outsourced some components]
I'm developing a "bolt-on" top plate for the T56 transmission that prevents the dreaded 1st - 2nd - 1st "Money shift"

I might do a "How To" in the off topic section for those that are interested
Manual transmissions seem to be a "voodoo black art" to most people

 

I don't own a trailer and I do understand why some guys prefer to haul their cars instead of driving, age and physical health can make it difficult to drive long distance, I still want to drive my hot rods as long as I am able to.

If I owned a trailer I would find some type of anti theft system, another thing I would do is get on top of the trailer and paint my name & address large enough to read from the sky, I really doubt most thieves but never look at the top but it's just added protection.

I don't know about taking the wheels off when not using it but I would suggest parking it where it would be difficult to snatch & grab, maybe by a pair of anti theft boot wheel locks. HRP

 

Link me please!

 

Most of the new sleds run 600-800 pounds plus any gear. Probably 4-5000 pounds for 6 sleds.
They are way heavier than they were in my younger days when my first sled weighed 340 pounds and I could load it into our Ranchero by myself at 12 years old by setting the track on the tailgate, lifting the front, and pushing it in.
Performance increased along with the weight. We sold some sleds that would hit 100mph in the blink of an eye, carrying the skis all the way---if you could hold on! The dealership owned an airstrip that was also used for testing. Good times.

 

I've never weighed my trailer, but it's a steel platform with aluminum and wood walls and floor. Comparable units seem to come in around 3600 lbs. No car I have is over 5000 lbs, so I can deal with that. My truck is certainly nothing special, just a basic extended cab, 6.5" bed 4x4 with a 5.3 LS/6L60, albeit with a towing package. Milage is terrible, around 10-11 unloaded, and 9 loaded, but it pulls it just fine at 75 all day and stops fine too. Not optimal, but adequate. Adding a weight distribution hitch and two sway controllers made a world of difference in the towing characteristics. Nothing fancy, just basic stuff from Harbor Freight.

 

My last SWB had a 5.3, great engine. Takes a turbo very easily.

 

No matter what trailer you get, get yourself a Proven Industries trailer hitch lock.

https://www.provenlocks.com/product...9xIl94r5bLyxfa1qWPLhLCkpcvMrt20RoCHGAQAvD_BwE

 

You make a valid point. Best to put the boat in the trailer and the roadster in the garage where it is climate controled and if he puts the roadster in the trailer chances are he won't get it out and drive it all that much because of it being a pain in the ass everytime he gets it in and out. Where if it is in the garage and ready to go he will be more inclined to jump in and go. Just my thoughts anyhow

 

I'll be moving in that direction soon.. my brother has lived in Sheepranch for 30 years

 

I've been eyeing enclosed trailers too. I'm kinda surprised some of you guys are hauling cars in enclosed trailers behind half-tons.....I assumed I was locked into 3/4 ton territory. So braking/crosswinds really not an issue at freeway (70) speeds?

 

There are new half tons with higher rated tow capacities than my old 7.3 CCLB F-350 dually.

Just know how your truck specs out and plan on a weight distribution hitch w/sway control. It's not how I'd go, but people do it every day.

 

I get that. The truck Arms Race. My brother works at Allison. Says modern 3/4 and 1 tons have more powertrain beef than modern medium duties, because medium duty buyers are trying to earn money with the truck, whereas the modern pickup buyer is in some kinda Schlong contest.

 

I had Chevy 3/4 ton HD trucks since the mid 90's when I stated doing trade shows. I left the road tour/trade show thing a few years ago and just traded my 2022 Silverado 3/4 ton HD for 1/2 ton Silverado with the 6.2 and 10 speed. Seems to pull my 20 ft. V nose alright the few times I used it. I did the bag the rear. The suspension is a little soft and with the bags it's a lot stabler on the road. The other positive is my wife is a lot happier as it sits about 6 inches lower so is a lot easier to enter and exit.

 

I have two 40ft containers for my cars frees up my shop space.

 

When I first got the trailer my rig "porpoised" a few times when I hit bumps and rough patches at speed. I added Firestone air overload bags and an onboard compressor and that took care of it. When I hook up, I jack the pressure up to 80 or 90 pounds and it tows like a dream.

 

Sell the boat,

Bid
On
Another
Thousand

Two Happiest days in a man's life, when he buys such boat, and sells it.

 

My 20 footer

 

Dropped off for a repeat customer
in Albuquerque, New Mexico
yesterday - 1939 Chevy Custom
all steel that the Dad built a
long time ago - nice it stayed
in the family …



Any vehicle can be winched on
to a trailer - vehicles break down
and are involved in accidents
or they are inoperative for
other reasons …



I have always winched vehicles
on and off - never had an issue …



Watch my video of how I unloaded
this vehicle on my YouTube channel:

@


Jim
Transporting To Travel
Traveling To Share
Stories From The Road

 

It’s definitely a 20-footer if you’re looking for a solid choice, but of course, it all depends on what exactly you need it for. Different lengths suit different tasks, so it’s important to consider your specific requirements. If you’re still unsure or need more guidance, I’d suggest reaching out to etrailer. They’re pretty knowledgeable and can offer advice tailored to what you’re looking for. They’ll help you figure out the right fit based on your needs and make sure you get the best option possible

 

A "really nice neighborhood" is not likely to want even a brand new, well built trailer parked in your driveway 24/7. You might run into zoning/HOA rules,too, which I assume you've checked out.

 

^^^^^ GOOD POINT ^^^^^


Jim

 

Curiosity got the best of me.

You have room for a Enclosed trailer at your house, Why not build a lean to off the side of the garage and store the boat there? This approach would secure what needs to be secured, and align your priorities a bit more where they need to be.

Plus what kind of a boat is this?

I think the other thing I am trying to get to is this. A 10k enclosed trailer to park a 40k Car in to keep a 10k boat in a garage seems counter productive in my mind. I'm not saying my prices are correct just giving this as an example.

Another point to ponder, the only boats that hold value are wooden vintage boats, the rest depreciate like someone popped the drain plug out in the middle of the lake.

This day and age, even in nice areas, trailers are stolen more than ever, most are never recovered. Plus, collector car insurance nor home owners would cover the theft. Last time I checked Hagerty wouldn't insure something if it wasn't stored in a permanent structure.

 

Glad you mentioned Hagerty insurance.

Anyone who contacts me for transport
I always ask who they plan to insure with.
Most folks have never heard of Haggerty
or agreed upon value coverage or
the cherished salvage value rider
they can add to their policy.

Jim