Technical Problem with new lifters.

Elgin most likely is using imported lifters and reboxing, one other thing to try is a 5w- 30 synthetic oil, not sure what you are using other than a 10-40 I think you mentioned, do not worry about using a syn oil on your engine, I run either amsoil or quaker state 5w-30 here in the states, I think your problem is lifters only, CK. Speed-talk . com website for more info before you do anything else, add don terrill to search if you have trouble finding it.

 

No, the real constant is the guy with the concerns, doing the work, and with the issues.
When changing oil, you don't lose/drain the oil in the lifter, it's stays filled is my understanding.

Why one would start making noise...no idea. But I wouldn't have changed them all for that reason alone.
But you did...now you have 16 problems.
My question would be, were the lifters pumped up before the install?
And can you pointedly explain your adjustment procedures for us? Look at it this way, maybe you are doing it wrong. Or some of us need to know how to do it right.

Sweden... never been, but I hear it does get cold there doesn't it?
"Now I instead have problems with really bad lifter knock and tick on cold start."

Your mention of the noise on start up, sounds like it could be piston slap. Goes away or settles down as the engine warms up? Could be...But who knows?

One thing is certain, you'll come out of this smarter for the experience, or you quit in frustration and find a new hobby. I'd hope for smarter, but can understand how a new hobby might be more fun.

 

16 bad lifters probably not then again they make them by the thousands and box them up so for a reality check I will tell you what I have done with hydraulic lifters for 45 years . I keep a couple tin coffee cans around I keep them clean so when I have a lifter job I can soak them in that can of whatever oil gets used in that engine . They will bubble away like goldfish I leave them overnite then next day I stand one up in the can of oil and with a Phillips screwdriver push slightly down on the plunger of the lifter about a 1/4 " till no bubbles come out to prime them and this also allows me to inspect for any that may have weak spring tension since the hardening oven in Cambodia may not be working on that day or Haji was in a hurry and bypassed the springs hardening process . I reject ALOT of the lifters that come my way due to lacking spring tension some you can push down with your finger ! There are specs on lifters they should be firm to push down on using both hands on the screwdriver about 30 inch pounds of resistance is fantastic and 20 is my minimum I just know now and I return the bad ones and they grab another box for me as they are scrap . But I always check the lobes while lifters are removed I always prime them like I said above and always reject ones I feel are weak or noticably weaker than the stronger ones . Just don't push the plungers all the way this ruins them and there is always some stoned ___ on this earth who is playing with lifters or screwing down the adjustments then returning them and auto parts flips them over to you to make a sale and Haji is making another batch in a hurry as we sleep and no one is watching or cares .
Do this :
1) Get another set
2) Prime and test then ( no more than 1/4" )
3) Yes try the 5w-30 oil for initial 30 minutes
4) Learn to use a vacuum gauge this will let
know if valve train is operating properly
5) Prime the oil pump with a drill hopefully
thru the distributor recess or ...
If you do these things and you still have same condition I would be surprised but know it's time to pull the pan and inspect the pick up and perhaps just replace oil pump while you got the pan off .
If you do replace the camshaft do also replace the oil pump and clean the pickup .
One more thing most important you get your parts from the United States parts sources I worked for a Swede when he comes here to procure cars and parts so need I say more about liquidated auto parts sent to who knows where

 

I fought what I thought was noisy lifter on a SBC a few years ago. I convinced myself the cam was bad so replaced cam and lifters. Started the engine and had the same tick. Bought a cheap stethoscope and found the noise was actually the mechanical fuel pump. Change the rod and noise gone.

 

Your worst scenario is your lifter bores are worn so never mind your oil pressure readings as most diagnostic mistakes are done by those relying on oil pressure readings to determine if lifter bores are worn as oil pressure is only affected after extended damage period . Your first sign is lack of oiling to the lifter as it escapes between the bore and the lifter this taking awhile to get to the lifter . In other words I see the Possibility that you have a beginning symptom and I would check the lifter to bore clearance in a couple areas around the lifter it should be less than .002 "

 

See the blog on Clay Smith Hydraulic lifters prime and adjustment they have a quicker way to prime and adjust and I suggest you just get their lifters

 

I seem to remember that there are versions of the basic lifter, OD,lengths etc that have the oil groove around the lifter located in different areas. And they partially block the oil supply hole in the block. Did you compare the new and old before installation?