Projects Project 29 Phaeton

The Tudor got the viking so i got another one for the Phaeton.

My Cowl Patches came out allright...just needs some grinding.
Without the bottom part as a reference...
...i was a little out of alignment on the top...
Now that the windshield stanchions are level...i messed up the passenger side...got a new patch for $34 bucks on it's way.

Next rear suspension...(need the rear axle to reference the rear wheel wells)
Got some rear axle spring brackets from Speedway...They're allright...
...hard to find metal stock for a reasonable price over here...

T

 

Back to work on the Tub.

Cut the rear cross member and a bunch of different thickness boxing plates out.
Even found some more diamond plate...What's up with this car and diamond plate?

The 32 frame is of by inch and a half in the front!

Ordered full boxing plates for reference and strength.

Sketch of the style...little lower in the back...?

It's my first full chassis build so I'll just wingin it from here...

T

 

S'more Layout / Hight Tech Tools.
Squared up the front end location...

 

Time to get the tub going.
The frame is pretty much at ride height.
front rails are off by 2inches! Firewall and back is leveled.

Hoping to get a visit from DMV any day now,
To make sure I have all the ducks in a row b4 I get started.
T

 

Some progress:
Welded the two frame rails together, squared them and started tweaking the rails. (Kick up in the back and front)
They will be completely boxed w. fish plates & additional internal supports.

With all that welding...I realized that I needed a frame table to hold everything in place!
Luckily My buddy had one that I could borrow!..Thanks' Man!

Time to give the back some rest before I continue!

T

 

Thanks to the frame table...everything is starting to come together...
it's still in my head but, just gotta weld it in...
& The frame is finally Straight!

Here's what it may look like, except I don't think it'll have hood sides with the Hilborn.

 

Funny, I was just thinking about this thread today while I was working on my phaeton, and here it is back on top. Looks like you are moving along nicely. I'll be watching this one.

 

Cowl is on the right position.
Rear Wheels are centered in the wheel arch.
Frame's pinched w. the Pinch O Matic (threaded rod)
And all's level...

 

My pinched / Bob Bleed kicked (Just learned that's what it's called)
frame fits the body contour Real Nice all the way back.
The rear kick / pinch is pretty tight...but, tight is good.

Next finish weld all the cuts and fill a bunch of holes!
Put in som nut-serts and weld in boxing plates.

Then it's time to get the engine / trans in there for fitment & start thinking about a cross member.

T

 

That style of frame kick up goes back to before Bob (or I) was born.

Nothing traditional is new, right?

The tub is looking good, man. Thanks for taking the time to do a build thread. I was too lazy to do one on my tub.


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

With the 340..not sure about lake pipes...
Don't think there's enough room inside with a pinched frame...
T

 

Cool project! Your renderings really help visualize the build. Here's my thought:
How about running a hood top and no sides? That way you keep that cool line of the body, front to rear, and still see your injectors?

 

deucetruck...That's it....

 

String? chassis is sitting at 2 deg forward with these tires. (So I have to add that front end caster)

Rear Axle set / clamped.

Front suspension mocking....
Spring behind, bones flipped, front x-member 3.5inches forward.

Steering Tie Rod...Not sure where it'll go?
I know I don't want it in front!
The original steering arms is not going to clear the spring or go below...no matter how much I'd bend'em....got to lock around HAMB and see what other guys have done.

I'll clean and sand blast the frame before final welding later.

 

32 spring holes too big....
Made spacers from 3/4" EMT.
Sliced about 3/16" off the middle.(two cuts)
First picture = Cut too much out (didn't stay round)
2nd picture = just enough (Round + Fit bushings perfect!)
Did the second one the same = round.

To try to measure spring hangers at 15 deg. angle is tuff.
I have to use the spring as a template...

Then I must have is a spring spreader!...a 32 spring spreader.
Some bed frame angle iron and two cut down hinges + threaded rod)
How did I come up with this idea?
(Some Dude here on HAMB gave me the idea...Thanks Dude!)

 

I think you'll find that you need longer steering arms to get the tie rod behind the spring. That's what I had to do on mine. I've got the spring behind the axle like yours . I will try to remember to post pics tomorrow...got to get to bed .


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Finally got the rear axle out...barely...small garage, lot's o crap, frames etc.

Cut the spring brackets off.

Mopar Factory Welding:
The brackets had really bad welds (parts of them not even attached to the axle) good for me!
Side Note: My Charger's body seams had more MIG whiskers than the musical Cats.

Dry fit:
The axle & spring is upside down, brackets right side up.

Now I just have to eat my spinach & "thread" the axle back in again.

Metal Man.
I checked out your pictures. (Awesome work!!!)
- steering arm drop jig 001
- Lengthened and gusseted steering arms for spring behind axle on the Phaeton
- tub spindles 003
LAST PICTURE'S METAL MANS!
I put it in for others to see...cause it's purdy!

If i don't go back, like yours, I may go down below the bones...pends on where my spring ends up.

 

Oh, thanks, I'm glad you found them. I didn't even realize there were already pictures of them in my albums.

Your car is coming along nicely!


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Took the frame out of the jig...
Paint stripped the inside...easy to sand blast before welding later.
(Wonder who drove an orange hot rod in Hawaii way back?)

This is what the sky looked like outside the garage today....!? *side note*

I slid the rear axle back in again on a Rail...Back one had some old welds on it...
The whole frame table moved 2 inches...squared right back up again..

Rear axle jig / compressor in place...I'm still only at 26" perch distance.
Maybe that's why guys use the Model A spring...?

 

The 32 rear spring have been fighting me back so far.
- Spring shackle distance doesn't make sence...
- It's sitting funny in the chassis...
- The Cross member's too short... 40" wide...Rear frame rails are 43

Decided to Measure the Model A cross member...43 inches.
Maybe It's trying to tell me something!
Took it apart (still amazed that bolts from 1928 still works great with a little heat)
I'll Clean it up tonight and try it out.

Maybe this is why few guys are using it in Hot Rods?

We'll see where it goes?

T

 

"It's called research, when you don't know what you're doing"
It is my first full frame build after all...

Had to move the "Pinch O Matic" cross bar so I can lift in the engine and trans for fitment...
So I came up with these adjustable mounts...

Only Problem, Now I can't put the body on the frame.


Keep on winging it!

There's a lot of stuff on a front end the wants to share the same space.
I'll probably move the spring forward and lengthen the steering arms (like Metal mans)

Tie Rod Ends:
Did a little calc. on the load on the Tie Rod ends.
They should be able to hold up ~250 lbs...?

T

 

S'more progress...

I don't know how Henrys guys welded these bones..?
They had this soft solder looking stuff inside 'em...

Moved the front cross member forward...looks a lot better.
The Tie rod can now go behind the spring & it'll also reduce
the load on the Bone joint...(tie rods)

Welded the bones in three passes...

T

 

Got the Tie Rods re-built ... needed to cut the edges in the lathe to pop 'em together...took me a while to figure it out...
Made a tool out of an old socket.

Thanks Vince76 for the ends...they're nice.

My borrowed ones look thicker but they're the same outside diameter.

 

So much for having a rolling chassis by the New Year...

But it's getting there...

The taper sleeves will be welded to the frame and go throught the boxing plates.

Got these crappy perches with an arbitrarily angled allen bolt welded to them from somewhere...(Speedway I think)
They don't look very strong so I'll try to use the cut off perches...straightened them out a little...we'll see?

Happy New Years!

 

Been Working on the front suspension...
Tried to use a 31.5 inch reverse spring with a Chassis Engineering front axle...(long side track...)
Decided to order a 29 inch... It will clean it up / look a lot better!

Got the body back on.
Modified the adjustable rail bracket so there not in the way.

Since there's no bottom in the body I had make some adjustable brackets to hold it up in the back.

Engine and trans in...yes I'm going to run an automatic (manual valve body)

Have to set all the angles so I can start working on the rear axle...

Boxing Day:
Then I have to decide if I'm gonna box the rails first or put the cross members in and then box'em...
I think I'll at least weld in the front and rear cross members before boxing it..?

Any pros & cons?

T

 

Received my 29" reverse main leaf from "Johnny Law"...?
(the only place I could find one...and the only thing I really wanted from them)

Anyways the spring is a HELIX brand. (made in china)
Anyone used HELIX suspension stuff before?

The eyes are really loose...Pete & Jakes bushings are kind of floppy in there - I'll see if I can adjust them in the vice.

Started the layout of the spring attachments on the bones and figured I better drill the holes at the same time.

I'm using 1" (1.063" ID) & 3/4" ( 0.863" ID) Rigid steel conduit to fill the holes.
I think I'm going with the 2.5 inch CC layout.

Maybe I'm overdoing it but..."If it's worth doing, it's worth over doing"

T

 

Uh oh, start searching for "Hoffman Group" for info on your Johnny Law parts.

My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383

 

Thanks Daddio!
I should have asked the HAMB gang first....

Here's a real spring compared to a HELIX spring.

No wonder the spring eyes are loose.
I'm going to send this crap back to Johnny Law.
I don't want to trust my life to this $#!t

Does anyone know where I can find a real 29 inch reverse main leaf spring?

Reading a lot of posts here on HAMB...sounds like Hoffman stuff is all crap!
(I didn't see Hoffman or Johnny Law listed as alliance members)

Here's a link to keep track / avoid their crap!
http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/

 

Got the bones laid out (went with 2.5inch center between the holes)
Need to get some rigid conduit scrap from work this week to do the holes.

My drill was to fast for the big size drills so I had to set it up in my Hobby Smithy.

Spring perches:
I liked the idea (got it from someone here on HAMB!) to have them loose both ways...easy to adjust angle and shackle spread.
When done, weld the inside...cut the outside and weld it.

T

 

Wish I could have helped you sooner. Good luck with getting your money back.

My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383