Got my Master Cyl mounted tonight. I needed to make the mount removable to access the bolts for the pedal assy. Crossmember is an F1 so I needed to push the master back to be able to open it. So arts and crafts it was. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Been a few weeks... plugging away at some simple things. Found a few parts I needed at great woods two weekends ago. Been sandblasting and sealing parts this week so far. Picked up a really nice rot free windshield from GreatWoods and cut it down Monday to start my week. Removed the front spring and suspension components and got them sealed up tonight. Need to cut back and radius the bottom two leafs then blast, seal them and mount them back on. I set the seats in that came with my car when I purchased it. Does anyone have a clue what they could be from originally ? Boat or car ? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
One other question... I cut down my F1 steering box and cut the mounting flange off my A box. Kinda got everything in place (no welds) and my steering shaft is roughly 1-1/2" off center to the left of the orig A column drop. Is that typical and what exactly is the process of correcting this ? Or did I screw up. Followed the tardel book and that's what I got. Any help would be great. Ty Mike Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
So, you have the Tardel book. . . Ha! Just busting 'em Mike. I made a "wedge" from plate and put that between the box and frame rail. That did the trick for me Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was thinking that would be the thing to do but wasn't sure that would work on the pitman arm side of things ... I suppose it's a ball and socket fitment so it wouldn't really matter. I'll fiddle with that tomorrow. I have no clue where the book is at this point ... I read it a while back but you wouldn't know it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have some original tudor front seats with mounts. They fold forward. Let me know if your interested.
Hi Mike, I know it may sound simple but, rotate the model a flange 180 degrees, its angled and does change the position of the wheel in the cab. Aaron
Thank you. I'm gonna see if I can get these to work. The height of the seats is perfect on the seat riser. Just need to figure if I can get them to adjust and lift forward. If it doesn't work out I will certainly reach out to you. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thank you for the info. Simple as that it did the trick. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Pulling everything apart, sandblasting piece by piece and putting it back together. A lot of things I've done over the winter have been bare Steel and are starting to rust a little. (Thanks to all the rain) So I needed to get things in sealer... I really do hate the lower shock mounts ... I need to find someone to tig weld some studs on my axle. Doesn't seem like much but my compressor doesn't keep up all that well. So every part takes a while. Onward and upward [emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just drill and bolt studs to the axle; they should not need to be welded. But really, once those things are on there and the car is together, you'll probably barely ever notice them anyway.
I look at the ones I have now every time I'm in the garage. I hesitated to buy them but figured it would move things along. I'll drill and tap some holes for shock studs. Should've done that from the start. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Noticed you are using a dual cylinder master... some big cars, LTD, Gran marquis etc. ... have an equalizer inline on the front brakes... evens out the pressure between the front wheels, and blocks off the brake line if you pop one... don't know what its called... mechanic said it is very hard to get at ? ? and we bypassed it on my winter beater's brake job... ... NOT the proportioning valve... about 2" long ... one line in, one line out...
You shouldn't need to tap, just drill and bolt with a castle or lock on the back. There are a bunch of different shock studs out there but something like these would probably work.
My axle is plated so it's no longer an I beam. It's a box now. Drilling and tapping would probably be the way to go. I'll look into my options ...seems like there's always a hundred ways to do everything. I'm sure I will find something that will work. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Plated? No longer an I beam??? What do you mean? You can get shackles with studs on them or run studs through bones. You can also reverse or flip and reverse the ones you have to put the shock behind the axle if you have the clearance. Maybe you could run something off a batwing since it looks like you're running pins, right?
a previous owner boxed this axle. They plated it with 1/4" plate to smooth it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Residual pressure valve. Available from speedway. They hold pressure from where you mount it to the wheel. Helpful when your master cylinder is at same height or lower than your wheel cylinders. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Mike, I agree, I didn't like those lower shock mounts either. I did some reading around and found someone who welded shock studs to the lower part of the wishbone, worked mint and it's clean. I might have some better pictures on my computer if you want. Cliff Ramsdell
Cliff I like that ! Nice and clean. I ordered some shock studs before I left for jersey. Pictures are great, I can see them clearly Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Getting parts Cleaned, Blasted and sealed is what I'm doing these days and I painted a set of 35 Wires. Chugging along Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I think it's been a month since I've really posted a thing. So here's a little update on the sedan. Sand blasting and sealing still ... sent these parts out. Too much for my compressor. Picked me up a full set of Lester White walls 6.50's and tubes for short money. Came off a restored car that sat. He wanted to replace them so I bought them off the tire shop who replaced them for him. Estimated 150-200 miles on the owner told the shop. Put two on a set of 35 wires I painted off-white and kept the other two to put on my 40 steels when I paint them. Mounted a set of white wall cycle tires on the fronts on the other off white wheels. Also painted a set of 35 wires Ford Crimson Red (1964 I think). It's okay. Mounted a set of 6.50 Blackwalls on those. Need to find some fronts to mount on the other two. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Shortly after I found a nice set of Guide lights so I was able to pick those up for short money also. Owner had another set he was selling also. I actually just picked those up this past Friday. These are the lights I've been searching for ...but didn't want to pay the going rate. Very fortunate I bought these right also. Started putting the front end together and things weren't fitting properly. I realized I had A spindles and naturally they won't fit my F1 front brakes without modifications. So I found a decent set of Square back spindles here on the H.A.M.B. Blasted and sealed those and started putting things together finally. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Started working on my firewall (sandblasting) endless process with a small compressor. While I was cleaning it I discovered what I believe is Mossrock Green. A color ford used for 1929 Model A's (google told me that) So that was kinda cool There were a bunch (6) holes that didn't appear to be factory holes. So I filled those this past week. I wanted the firewall to be as it were when new before I cut it to recess it. I didn't want to have to patch holes after the fact and thought that leaving the holes would affect my finished product in a bad way. So I just filled hem. I'm glad I did. Swiss Cheese [emoji1313] Holes gone This past Sunday I recessed the firewall the needed 2.5" I did not want to alter the form of the stamped metal on the firewall so I took my time to fit the pieces into the firewall from the back side and made sure I had enough real estate to remove the protruding portions of sheetmetal leaving me with 2.5" consistently across the back of the panel. It was not fun. It took most of my Sunday because I had to keep walking away from it. (Stress and frustration) It was hot as hell and I swore often but I saw it through. Didn't waste any Steel and I'm happy with it. Tucked it into the cowl tonight. Fits perfect as it should. It's not done yet. I need to fill the small hole on top of the fuel pump recessed area. Also I need to modify it for the trans tunnel and also add a flange for the floor board panels. So far so good ... its progress. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Finally got to the bottom of the clutch linkage also. At the Mansfield swap I bought another set of pedals that had all the bits and pieces safety wired to them. One piece caught my eye because I hadn't seen one at that point. This is the missing link I needed. I removed the flange/pivot mount I built prior. Made a new mount for this piece and bolted it together. Clutch works perfectly as it should now. So I'm happy with that. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
