I'm so grateful whoever did this had no clue how to lay down a bead. Clearly it was stick welded but as bad as it is I dodged a huge bullet. I never thought it would come out looking like that after it was blasted. Just a small bump in the road that's all
What a death trap with all that popcorn weld, nice score you figured that out. Might just have saved your and someone elses lifes. Great job.
When I first saw the pictures of the frame I thought you were crazy to try to fix it. But it does look good now! great job.
Hey guys, I picked up the plate yesterday for my frame. I do have a few quick questions... I've read several times there are inaccurate measurements with the Tardel Book (which I have and have read several times) regarding the motor mounts. **forward edge 3" back from the center of the rad mounting hole. I want to make sure I know the exact location they need to be, if this number isn't correct. Additionally should I box the frame completely to the front crossmember and weld the motor mounts to the plate ? Or should I notch the plate and do a slight bend and taper it into the channel and end it just behind the motor mount ? I've also read in a few threads that I should start with the trans crossmember and mount that first get the motor and trans set in place on the saddle which will then give me the location of the motor mounts. Which way should I go about it ? To give a quick recap of parts I'm using .. Model A frame 3/16" plate steel. 49 8Ba w/3 spd converted to open drive F1 crossmember w pedals F1 steering box. Thanks guys. The frame cleaned up great, going to finish cleaning it and coat the inside of the frame and paint with primer later today. I'll post pics as I go. I'm in no rush to throw plating on it, I'll probably just clamp it on and start scribing if anything. Ty
My intentions are to run a Dana 44 with a buggy spring on top. I have the weld on shackle mounts already for it. With a cut down driveshaft. My other option is to run the rear that came with the car. 36-37 banjo Swap out the backing plates for the 40's backing plates I have and run it that way with the torque tube that is on it.
I also have a 40 rear with the spring that goes along with it. However the eyes for the shackles on the rearend are pretty clapped out. So I think it's a lost cause. If I run the 36- banjo or Dana setups I'm going to step the frame either way.
Ok, well then it sounds like you'll be shortening a drive shaft to fit, either way you go, so, considering you're doing an A on an A, AV8, your center Xmember and pedal location should probably drive your engine/trans location decisionmaking.
Okay that's kinda what I was thinking however here is my dilemma. I have no body mounts on either frame to position the body to locate the firewall distance. Is there a determined number for distance from point A to point B for a determined location for an F1 crossmember ? Knowing I'm running the 8BA I understand it's longer in the pulley belt area. The Tardel book doesn't refer to anything regarding this setup due to its lesser appeal to traditional hot rods. Or so I've read. I'll order some body mounts today and additionally does anyone use wood blocks on these cars or are most people running sub rails on the frame. I would understand if they're removed to get a lower ride height. I never read anywhere that people are using them. So for mock up is it a necessity. Sorry for all the questions. I've been looking everywhere and really can't seem to come up with the answers I'm looking for. Thank you for your help Pat.
I'd run on wood or urethane spacers. Wood is traditional and also fairly easy to put in there if you know what it's supposed to look like and how thick it needs to be. If you're not channeling, get it on there as stock as you can. You can always change it later once you've got that starting point. Your frame should still have some mounting holes somewhere. Go take a look at the plans for an A frame and see what you can pick out. If you've got a radiator, put it on there so you know where that's at in relation to the fan (put cardboard on it unless it's trash). You may need spacers to get the 8BA up high enough. The truck pumps were made for a higher mounting point than level to the top of the A rail from what I've observed. Retrofit kits from Ford had several varieties for 32-up cars. I made some out of box tube for my car though. I'd worry about getting the firewall where it's supposed to go and seeing where the engine and pedals want to sit between it and the radiator. If you think the fan is too far from the radiator, you can always shroud it. Then TACK the mounts in.
Thank you. I'll Oder what I need today and get started with positioning the body. There is so much that goes into these cars haha. Simplicity my ass ! [emoji52]
Danger!!- these frames have holes for lots of different bodies, and even 2 for steering ( right- handed).( Yours had a bonus- a 3rd position!!) Go by the holes in the sedan sub-frame to line up the right ones on the frame- and start with the rear wheels in the right position or you're going to be changing everything to make it look right. Here's a blueprint for perfection; (HaHa)
Most of the holes in my frame (body mount) appear to be filled with weld and ground smooth. I can still see them though. So I'll get some plans online if I can and use them as a guide. I have a spare room if anyone wants to move in for a month or so !? Just putting that out there ... I'm a good cook and I'll give you all the free jars of homemade shine you can handle. I make my own
Hello? Anybody home?? If you line up the 2 big holes on the ends of the rear crossmember with your subframe, it will all make sense.( Not so hot pictures, but they're free!) First one is a sedan, second is a roadster, but all kind of the same. Oops, I sent one of my wife by accident!
Sweet build; wish I found it sooner! I guess it will be a race to see who gets done first! Here is what I am doing for my frame to find the pedals: I have my old transmission, right? Well, you therefore have where the rear engine mount is (I say engine mount loosely, as it is of course on the transmission housing). So, make a cardboard template off of the motor mount, to where the pedal shaft goes. You have to get it on all three axis here- depth, height, and distance back. It isn't that hard. So, now you have a sweet cardboard template from the motor mount. Now, if I line up my template to the holes in the frame, I got my pedal location. Steering location I still need to work out. If you want the template, I can give you it soon, as I am finishing up my pedal placement. However, I suppose it will change if you are not using A pedals... Cruddy pic, but you get the idea.
I am working my way through my last box. Now I have to find something slightly more- um, socially acceptable? It was good while it lasted...
Hey Mike150, I just went through all of that this summer, sucks when everything you do creates more questions right?I mounted my subrail and cowl then put the flattie/trans in. I studied EVERY model a w/ a flathead I saw at a show or cruise and 99% of them had the mounts just behind the rearward edge of the front crossmember. I am in Haverhill and you can come by to see how I mounted the motor, trans, ctr x-member, pedals, and steering. I like moonshine and I want to build a still-Ron
I'm gonna have to plan a ride up ... The biggest thing I've found is having never built a Hotrod and without having a complete (or somewhat complete) car to dismantle I have no starting points or pictures of the dismantle to refer back to. But I think I have what I need to move forward (slightly) and at least get the body mounted and get an idea where the motor and trans are going to go.
I now have upgraded the electrical system and installed a 100 amp sub panel in the garage to have 220 available for a big compressor and air tools. Also added a ventless propane heating system while I was at it. I'm now in the process of buttoning up the wiring and insulation and sheathing the walls before the winter. Very thankful of Mother Nature cooperating with me ... Mike Bowling that must be the lovely girl in the picture ! I mean your wife Tell her thank you ! I'll hopefully be back on track after this weekend and once the new doors are installed. I'm building the doors so they swing out instead of in to avoid losing floor space inside the garage. Ron, I enjoy making corn whiskey. It's fun but time consuming but totally worth it ! So as I said ... 1 step forwards 100 steps back. I'll be happy if I'm driving my car when I'm 50 ! Vroom vroom
Keep the faith, even baby steps are progress forward. Ps. Mike B made a mistake marrying my ex. but we need more pics...
hahaha !!! More pics would help with my concentration for sure, or the complete opposite. Either way I'm fine with it. [emoji57]
Hey Ben, Thanks for the post, I'm actually using what I was told are F1 pedals. However they don't line up with the F1 crossmember pedal bolt pattern... So. I don't think they're exactly what I thought they were. I starting to see a pattern here ! haha. However when I get to that point I'll be completely confused as usual and ask more questions and post lots of pictures. I have a feeling this will be the tortoise vs. tortoise race of the model A builds ! But I'm in it to win it so game on ! [emoji14]
The pictures make perfect sense Mike Thank you. With everything I have now (firewall mounts) plus knowing where these bolt holes line up it should make it all real obvious.
Looks like things are moving along nicely. Next time you need any metal try Grant Steel. I've used them in the past and they deliver orders over 100 bucks if I remember right. John
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