Projects Project 333 [Half Evil] a Mid Engine Roadster DragCar started finally.

Thought so... just wasn't sure how they handled that issue.

Glad you are able to work with them during the build!!

Get her stickered!

 

I wanna be like Dave when I grow up. Awesome build

 

So do you call yourself OCD, or just detail oriented? looking good!

 

Dave : Do you require "bead lock" rims for all blown : alcohol/nitro cars ? Or is there an exemption for nostalgia cars ? As you now require a floater rear end... Just thinking....

Burn Down Tubes ?

Looks Awsome.....

 

Where do these people come up with all these rules?????

ET rules (7.50 and slower) only require aftermarket axles and spool, in fact according to Heritage Rules , My blown alcohol car that runs 7.0 only requires aftermarket axles and spool and beadlocks only come in when you declare yourself as running A/Fuel, That was a stupid rule caused by a A/Fuel racer running a damaged rim and the tire came off the bead during a burnout.My car does the same burnout with the same tire but I dont need a beadlock. The big issue with them is with the 15" in/out beadlocks is that they dont clear the brake caliper, so in effect one must reduce braking effectiveness in order to satisfy a rule that happened once 8 years ago.

 

I had just enough 1-5/8'' .083 tubing left to make up two more hoops, w/ about 3'' of trim left at each end of the tube......But got lucky and made them correct the first time around...I was ready to fight it since my originals measured, bent and fit so well the first time.......I also changed from a six point and made this one a five point.....I need to make up the side helmet bars and weld it up..........I am happy with this over my first one, more sleeker and has better overall flow and still has the front 4'' face of helmet to front hoop measurement outside edge requirement......Littleman

New side profile......



Old cage front shot..6 point




New cage front shot...5 point

 

Not that the first one was bad, but this is much improved. I believe the 5pt cage on mine was made with a 6" radius. very nice.

 

looking good........studing your pictures so post more....

 

Pics while wearing the helmet in the new cage top........Looks like I could have angled the top plane down in the front a little more....That OCD thing is kicking in...I am starting to twitch..ha ha ha.........I will save that for the FED that I will bend up next...I am thinking of using 1-1/4'' Dia. tube for what would normally be 1'' tube size for the helmet bars all the way around...but need to find a 7'' radius die to match the shoulder hoop radius in the corners...1'' just looks small, then again I wonder where you buy them flat pads I seen guys have on the inside of their helmet bars that go all the way around, that would look bigger...Littleman Dave

 

1 1/8" X .058" wall also works good for helmet bars. That 5 point cage makes it look a whole lot better.

 

ISP makes "them flat pads"
http://ispseats.com/id125.html

 

New cage looks perfect, angles make it look way 'sleeker' and tapered.

 

Very nice Dave. Thanks for sharing. Hey just wondering what do you have for a Bender?
thanks
Luke

 

LZ, I bought my bender long ago from ChuckSmiths Motorsports, I believe it to be nothing more than a 1st or 2nd generation re-badged JD Square bender...which is nothing more than a Hossfield knock off.....It works great for the backyard shop....If I did this for a living, I would invest into a nicer bender like most of the guys making a living bending tubing crafting cool stuff everyday....

Kenneth S, using 1-1/8'' is a good thought, I just had thoughts of using 1-1/4'' because I had some..I will check w/ the local chassis guy if he has some, maybe he has the 7'' radius die I want to use for either size.

Cand-Man, looks like dreracecar answered your question, I am learning about all this as I go along...Lucky to have some guys on the Hamb w/ some real world knowledge about this stuff ! and they are willing to give out advice......Looks like to me once you cross over into Advanced E.T....everything changes and lots of upgrades are demanded.....I plan on making up some rim screws for the rear rims ......I have Strange 35 spline gun drilled axles w/ 5/8'' studs and spool.....It should live, if not I will need to upgrade whatever fails.

H.G. Wells, thanks for the info on them helmet bar pads, I plan on looking into them!

Thanks everyone.....I am finally happy w/ how everything looks....To be truthfull I have not slept well since the end of November when I placed the car on the ground......I have been waiting to change the helmet bars around since then...sometimes it is down right silly what keeps me up at night.........Like Daddy O's..Deuce mentioned possible OCD problem...I laughed...then thought he is probably correct......but it is all about the details! I am going to weld the hoops in tomarrow...if I don't do this I will probably mess w/ them again...I need to get the body mounted soon.........

Littleman........

 

Dave:
Just a thought if you dont mind.
The ISP pads are nice but take up some room in the cage and accounted for. They require a plate to be fabed -fitted and sent to the Mfg'r. Think about the thickness of these while you have your helmet in position.
Also, if you go the padding route (sfi 45.1) . Stuff I have experienced is a bit stiff. Have heard that there is some stuff on the market now that is more flexible and also a dual durometer type . Just a FYI.
A local dude had a FED built (Roo)and he had some shots as the back plate was being fitted (ISP). Will look for it and post it for your ref.
Luke

 

This is the flexible, dual durometer padding. http://www.stbarinc.com/orange-aid/index.html

 

Dave, those flat pads are ISP Safety helmet pad systems. Very nice stuff that al the big guys use. Normal SFI cage "padding" if you can call it that is a joke. This stuff works AND pads. Also look at Orange Aid cage padding, looks like the normal stuff but really work, designed by a racer/brain surgeon. Literally

 

It is totally un-nessary to go any bigger than 1" on the helmet bars. ISP will allow you to make your own mounting plates as long as you follow their guidlines. MY car has a narrow 5-point cage and their normal pad system would not work. I made my own plates that are 1 1/2" wide and had ISP make the padding 3/4" thick and they have a current cert on them.

 

My whole car is over built per the min. required, more than likely I will end using 1''...just looks small and out of proportion to me...thats all.......my FED will be on a diet...this one not so much..Thanks for the info on ISP.......

I was looking at the two pics you posted of your FED...when you driver is suited up, strapped in and has the helmet on...does he have the 4'' required clearance from your outside edge of the front hoop to the helmet ?...Just noticed the cage is not that deep or atleast appears that way in the pic........good looking machine...Dave

 

I could never understand anyones theory about overbuilding the spec.. Minimum spec on cars that weigh over 2000# and going over 300mph @1000' seem more that enough, and are designed to crush and bend, whereas larger and heavier wont and the driver takes all the energy. One is not adding any overall safety, just weight and effort to build the thing. If I went to a .065 shoulder hoop, that would meen I would have to turn down the upper frame rail so it would telescope together. Now by using .058 (minimun spec) the two telescope together with zero effort and the percentage difference would not even be on the charts. Most other chassie builders will tell you that they will use .083 for the cages because its stronger. The only thing I can tell you that it is easier for them to bend because there bender wont bend .065 without crushing it.The other thing is that if the driver has to be cut out of the car I would rather it be easy for the track crew to do rather than using somthing that makes it harder and delaying the rescue. There is one area on my car that I overbuild and that is the motorplate upright as it calls for 1 1/4x .049 and I use .058 because its the only .049 the spec calls out for as a minimum and I dont need to have a whole stick hanging around just for that.

As far as the 4" that all depends on where you measure from, If there is padding on the rear upright and whether the drivers moves his head forward during the launch or not. I have never seen anybody measure this because a helmeted driver in not in the car while being either teched or certed. The starter may say somthing if he notices the helmet sticking out of the cage but that is rare. Interesting note, (and this is from an NHRA official) "Every car must have current spec seat belts installed in the cars" but one does not have to use them and legaley they cannot touch them while your seated in the car.

 

Good info for my future FED build........As far as 1-5/8'' .083 or .065 wall thickness.....the only thing that matters on both to me are the welds.. that will make or break you. My bender bends .065'' w/ no un-seen problems...but my shoulder hoop and both lower rails I used 1-5/8'' .083...I figured this car could use the weight...and not for impact purposes, but I am in my cars crumple zone.....My FED I want as light as possible and plan on telescoping the rails...I have seen FED's that weight over 1,800 lbs and running wire wheels when they should not be based on the rule.......some heavier and not much different than a purpose built door car weight wise....I find some of the rules funny because they are not maintained at the track...

 

I made up the steering support....need to still make up the 1'' helmet bars.....I made up another lower rail crossmember that will be placed between the lower rails real close to the rear of the verticle chassis rearend mounts...this should add allot of strength to this area...it was dreracecar that pointed out that I could hurt this area during a hard launch.....I will do something on top as well.......getting close to being able to finish weld the entire chassis atleast what is left......Then mount the seat and belts, tank, chute, make pedals, mount fire bottle, make mid plate struts, mount main body, shocks and everything else...so much to do...so little time.....I found a 27 Roadster glass hood, hood sides and track nose on craigslist...something to play with and cut up for an idea....Littleman

 

Great work Dave, Tim Jones

 

I have never been so excited to see the finished product for someone elses car...like I am for this one.

Just makes me sick how good this thing is compared to my junk
Serious "attaboy" there Dave

 

Hi Dave.Very nice.Some OP`s have said its out of the box thinking.The`re right.Its so far out of the box,you can`t even SEE the box from where you`re at.Keep up the good work.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Not too much to update...I have been working allot at work.....I now have the helmet bars in place, seat mounts are tacted in. Along with all the belt mounts tacted and in place. Gas pedal mount is tacted in place as well........need to figure out brake pedal and master cylinder mount next......I also ordered up some Team3 Fuel rear type wheels, they will look more 60's.and swapped out the M/T slicks that are 11'' wide for a new et of M/T's that are 13.5'' wide...will have plenty of tire out back now..and will need to cut the body up even more...Littleman

 

Good lookin build,,,,I'll be watching

 

Tonight I got the brake pedal roughed in.......still need to place two bends in the actual swing arm to move the pedal pad inboard.It does not look like much..but I have some time machining this thing, it swings great and has no play and is all chromoly....Hope it works when it is in place w/ the master.....if not I will need to come up w/ another idea........I am hurting for space now......Littleman

 

Looks awesome,how about a handbrake?

 

I know what you mean about the tight space, everytime I would add something in my cockpit and test the fit,, ,I'd think MAN you gotta lose some weight!!! Tim Jones