Projects Project 52 Chevy 3100

I feel sorry for you people who have problems getting a title. I went to the DMV last week and asked for a title packet which consists of about 8 pages single sided stapled together, free. I only had to fill out 4 of the 8 pages. I called the local police dispatcher and asked for an officer to stop by for a VIN inspection, 10 minutes later the chief of police showed up. He looked over the paperwork, looked at the VIN on the vehicle, ran the VIN which he said wasn't on file. He signed the VIN inspection paperwork, shook my hand and drove away, free. I took pictures of the vehicle, printed them out in color, and attached them to the paperwork. I need to return the packet to the DMV and pay the title fee, which the last time I did this it was $8. I'll get the title in the mail in about 2 weeks. I've done this numerous times for vehicles I've found in the desert, were given, or purchased without a title. Sorry for hijacking your post..

Larry

 

Around windshield gasket area cause if it sat outside along time the seals can leak and cause damage to the flange around windshield

 

That gap on the rear fenders to running boards is puzzling. I hope you figure it out.

 

when the rear end was switched was the spring redrilled to put the rear forward when the truck was lowered?
the gap between the running board and the fender looks about the same amount as the rear should have been adjusted.

 

maybe buy another parts truck that has a good title, build your truck with the best parts...

 

He has a title for it now.

 

^^^sorry, must've missed that.

 

It’s been a while since I posted about this old truck but had some things come up & havent been able to get as far as I would have liked by now. I did pull the front clip & bumper off then a little while later I
Pulled the old drive train. I’m waiting for warmer weather around March to start sanding & painting everything visible under the hood in preparation of dropping the 250/th350 in.
Anyhow here’s a few pics.

 

I wondered what happened to you!

And I see you went to HF

 

yeah I figured I was going to need it quite a bit & taking my time doing it so I picked one up. So far so good, no problems with it.

 

I’ve been trying to figure out how I’m going to run my steering column. I want to run an ididit tilt, column shift unit & keep it manual steering & all the drag link etc original & in the same spot. In looking at the factory gear box which I would like to keep & searching online it appears that the gear box & steering shaft are one piece & I probably can’t mate the ididit column to it or is the shaft removable somehow?

 

you can just cut the tube & shaft a few inches above the box, then use the new column..using u-joints

 

It is a one piece unit as far as shaft and column go. From there you need to figure out if you want to change how far the wheel is going to be from the dash If you are happy with where the wheel is now life is good.
If you are changing steering wheels and intend to use a dished wheel you have to take the depth of the dish into consideration.
Take the stock column out and lay it on the bench/table and lay the ididit column beside it figure out and put a mark on the stock column at the end of the Ididit shaft. That is how far the Ididit column is going to stick down towards the box from the steering wheel and how much space between that mark and the box you have to work with.

From that point you need enough room to cut just the tube so you have a stub of the shaft sticking out beyond the tube and then cut the shaft so you have space for the coupler between it and the Ididit shaft.
You need a coupler that connects the Ididit shaft end to a double D shaft as you are going to grind the flats for the double D on the Chevy shaft stub.

The bearing that normally goes in the bottom end of a stock steering column tube to support the shaft at the end this time goes in the stub of the column on the box to support the stub of the shaft sticking up.
It's going to be a tight fit for the stock column shifter between the bottom of the housing for the tilt and turns signals on the Ididit column and the dash and you may have to bend and reshape the lever along with shortening the shaft for the shifter. Plus the tubes are different diameters and the bracket that fits the stock column won't fit the fatter Ididit column. That same thing is going to happen on the firewall side where the shift box attatches to the column. you have to figure out how to deal with the fatter column tube.

 

the new column wil not work coming strate from the box, you'll need a joint to angle the column to the decided position you want the st. wheel to be at.

 

Exactly the info I was looking for. I knew about couplers and dd steering shafts, just couldn’t figure out how or if I could make it all work with the original gear box. I have a pretty good idea now when I get there, this had been bugging me for a while. Thanks guys

 

rusty1 does have a point, because of the larger diameter Ididit column it might put it at just enough different angle to cause the shaft to bind in the bearings a bit and a U joint rather than a coupler would eliminate binding. If the shaft is a perfectly straight run from box to steering wheel the coupler will work ok.












































ryar

 

I’ve got a truck box cut just past the tube mount on my flatbed. I can measure when the snow melts.
But there’s a couople ways to do it.
The new column will need a lower mount as the originals dont t need one.
A U joint or a rag joint can be used.
You need to know the original shaft diameter and the new column diameter, double D or spline.
Might need to look into a seal for where the old box is cut. And support bearing.
I just did the opposite on a 57. Mated the stock column to a new steering box.
A rag joint was used and the factory steering shaft was cut and a double D filled on the shaft.
Super EZ hook up

 

Anthony, yes, that would be cool If you could take a picture of your set up on that gearbox and steering shaft. I would very much appreciate that whenever the snow melts.

 

My dad used a tilt/tele out of a Vette in the ‘57. Used a rag joint. Circa 1971/72. I’ll pop the hood tomorrow, I replaced the joint and seems it was a painless task. Kinda think he just used the Vette column mount in the cab vs the original.

 

Here’s the 57 set up. New box, original column

I’ll try to measure that truck box tomorrow

 

With the joint, assume you didn’t use a second mount? That’s how I recall my ‘57 but different column.

 

For the column? Not yet
This one had a bracket and clamp that secured the column on the firewall.
Plan to weld a plate at the bottom of the column that will bolt to the firewall on the interior

edit: 56

 

Here’s the support bushing for the steering shaft

The OP will need to do similar to his truck box when he cuts the shaft.
Looks like a part number for that has already been posted.

 

you can grind the shaft sticking out of the box to a double D shape, then use a double D on one end of the u-joint and whatever works on the new column on the other end of the u-joint.

 

@Francisco.
Looks like a 3/4 steering shaft according to this fancy measuring tool

 

Hey fellas,

I dismounted most everything from my L6 250 to clean & paint. in the process I accidentally tossed my water pump & 2 of the bolts in the trash. I bought a replacement but not sure on bolts.

Does anyone know if the bolts are all the same length? The water pump appears to be thicker in the two circled spots on my photo but they do thread into the block, just not sure if it requires more length.
Ps are washers used on these bolts?

 

Here’s a couple of pics after paint. ‘56 Chevy engine orangish Red.

 

Not sure of different sizes, been ages since I had a 235 WP off, but that bolt head looks kinda odd

 

Good eye lol. It was damaged, like it had been rounded or snapped in the past. I needed to use a vice grip to get it off.

 

Measure the thickness of the water pump bolt area then add 3/8 to half inch.