All torn down ready to head to the builder. Getting charged nothing for the rebuild. If I learn he says I don't have to pay a thing...knowledge is always a good price
Got the engine to the builders and found out the engine had been bored 60 over. With the pistons seized and the bore 60 I don't have the option of boring again unless I change the crank to 312. I've decided to find another 292 donor which I did for 100 bucks under a guys tarp in the back 40. Cylinders look good and we may be able to use the existing Pistons. More to come
Today we tore into the 292. It was frozen however cylinder walls looked healthy. Jerry(the builder) has been building y blocks since he was 18. Great stories and history to learn from. Honing Scraping. After 4 hrs we got the engine to come loose. So bath time And some more honing This is where we left off today Looking pretty clean great start for a build. Laying out the pieces for assembly More to come.
While the engine is gettin built. Why not clean up the front end, firewall and frame. Flipping the axel to lower getting started on boxing in the axel for the flip.
Hey tim thx Yeah we are starting assembly today! Long time coming. This engine was salvageable and I have little $$ to build it. So nothing fancy other than the polish and paint. Heads are not big valve but happy to find a working block. It also has the smaller port 4v intake...however I'll keep looking for a donor. Those things are hard to come by unless I by John M new ones. Following your lowering tech that Todd did on your truck. So glad to have that template.
Glad to see your progress. The 292 is a great engine in these trucks. I have it in mine too. I was glad to see that your cab mounts appear to be in good shape. I notice them only because I'm in the process of welding in new ones at the moment, and it's a big job. My cab mounts were rusty and the floors above them were too. What is the issue that causes you to raise the steering box?
Cowboy Ted By lowering the front end the geometry is thrown off creating bump n steer. So by raising the steering box the same amount you drop the front suspension (which will be six inches) it balances the ride out
Assembly begins... First the timing chain and cover Adding the front engine mount Next the valley cover Then heads Rockers Coming together... The put valve covers on but not gaskets...not there yet...turning engine over to put oil pan and connecting oil pump...I didn't show that process but pan is on... Fuel pump Intake and carb And fabled the brackets for the one wire alternator.
Headers on, plugs in wires on, fuel line in, oil and filter in, temp solenoid, battery hooked up, ready to fire...
Today cleaned 50+years off shut n grime off the frame rails. Will dismantle and prep firewall then box frame for the notch paint last. A clean frame always makes it feels like you've turned the corner...although hrs of fab n paint prep n work.
Back to the frame n axel today. Fabbed up the boxes for the bottom back. Used 4x4 .120. Pretty think however I want it to match the thickness of the new plates Just a matter of cutting n fitting Both fitted ready for quick polish then tack. Next up for the bottom front box.
Alright drilling main leaf today...I've been conversing with bigredtodd on the matter and finally with little to no assistance from machine shops. Todd talked me into trying. I took a leaf that I wasn't going to use from the pack and did a trial run. The drill press at work is set for lower speeds for hard steel. With a new but I had success. So now for the real thing. Set up a jig and then measured and re measured. The new hole will be 2 inches forward. Success!!
Lots of little stuff today. Still need to finish welding and boxing in straight axel. But I found a master cylinder and space from a 57 I'm using due to clearance issues. So tore them apart and soaking. Meanwhile started on the steering box. Which will be moved up to avoid the bump n steer. Cut out for the column to fit. Then placed a rough setting for the box Next I started on the master clutch which hooks right up to 61 clutch arm. However the po must have messed with it so I'm having to re drill the hole out. I really hate shitty work when it affects me. So I moved on to cleaning bolts and painting batt tray. Side note. Don't know if it matters but I have to put the steering box on hold till I get the axel back under the frame. My thinking is there might be issue with column placement if I don't.
Little done this evening. Replacing mechanical clutch for a 57-60f100 hydraulic clutch. It's not a bolt n go though. When ford came out with the mechanical in 61 they just welded a bracket to the pedal arm however the arm has a hole for the hydraulic master prison arm to attach to. There's a stamped hole ready to pop out but you have to drill your own for the master to attach to the firewall. Thanks to tim McMaster for showing me how he and Todd did it to The LSR truck. So drill your own holes...make a bracket or whatever but weld your nuts on the inside of the firewall for easy access to your master.
Some more today switching to the steering box. So I mocked up a 3/16 plate and got measurements. Bigredtodd walk through this process really good on the LSR build. Bolt holes match. Next is the drop column. I also followed todds 1 1/2 section. Here's after welding.
Section in the drop will make a huge difference cause raising the steering box six inches throws the steering wheel into the seat.
Okay so wife n kids gone for the day so brought the big welder from work home and started with boxing frame rails. I measured to where the rail starts to curve. The cut that portion out Then welded in the 3/16 to box the rail Next finished the boxing of the spring perch. Cut fit cut fit. Already to weld it up.
Switching back to the drop. I sectioned it welded back together then want to get it into the right placement before I tack the steering box placement. Didn't do a play by play here but I cut and fit the new steering placement and made a gusset for the new plate Column drop brings the wheel up nice. Have good clearance for the total drop about six inches. The engine will add to that so to be on the safe side I'll notch the frame where I boxed
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