Project 63 Riviera has started

Bad***, hope to do that to my 63' one day.

 

It's a lot of work but, very well worth it. There's a lot of pieces you'll need but, I have a great guy (Riviera Dan) he's been supplying us with all the parts we need. I'm going to be finishing the whole story probably Sunday. I've been exhausted after all this and my fiancés in town. I'll have more about the custom work we had to do. All and all. It's a much better car and really gets up and go's. if you have any questions, let me know.


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Nice work! Love the new stance too.

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Man you'll be styling back to so cal....please put killer insurance on it..that's too nice to see go bye bye out there as your daily!

 

Here are pictures of the two driveshaft. Old and new. You can see the difference in where the carrier bearing is located. I'm sure Buick made them equal lengths to cut down on vibration. View attachment 1975508 View attachment 1975510
And here is a picture of the difference in the carrier bearing View attachment 1975512 View attachment 1975518
The one still connected to the driveshaft is 63. The other is the old 65 before I had it rebuilt. You can see the difference in the height and that the 65 bolt pattern is narrower. A family friend made us a spacer block to mount this inside the box of the frame. It wasn't to bad but, if you have big arms, it would be tricky. You have to reach up in the box of the X-frame and line it up. When I did this, I had the driveshaft in the car but NOT connected to the rearend. And DO NOT separate the driveshafts when you have the rebuilt. We had a great company that rebuilt it, balanced and painted it for us for 175. Once it's balanced, it's crucial they are not separated or it will vibrate. You must install the driveshaft into the trans when taking measurements for the location of the new carrier bearing holes. The front driveshaft is static so you don't have to worry about giving it a lot of slack but I did give it about a 1/2 inch of room just incase. The motor mounts and trans mount are rubber mounts and can move slightly. There's also no torque on the carrier bearing. It's just a pillow bearing surrounded in rubber. All the slack is required for the rear driveshaft to move with the rearend.
The front spring where a little tricky. And always triple check yourself. You don't want a spring shooting out at you. I removed the steering controls and the front control arm mounts and the sway bar bolts. Then loosened the upper and lower castle nuts. And remove the shocks. Dont take the castle nuts all the way off before you break rm loose or you'll get a little wakeup when you break it loose. Break em free with a pickle fork and use the castle nut as a stop. Then with a jack under the lower A-arm. Remove the lower castle nut and slowly lower the jack. Make sure the jack is all the way at the end of the control arm and have it jacked up high because it with swing down quite a bit. If they are stock springs, they are quite long and you still have to pop it out with a long crow bar. The new springs are much shorter and easier to get in. Also make sure you set the springs in correctly and seat them in the dimples. The uppers. I suggest get the front upper spring rubber bushings from OPGI to help eliminate spring rattle and squeaks.
Now, this is just my opinion but, I bought a Petronix ignition for it and it was awful! I could not get it to work correctly and junked it. Never again. Went back to good ole points and she runs like a dream.
Also there is some misinformation about timing on a nailhead. Starting at the p***enger side front cylinder is number 1, number two is driver side front and from there they zig-zag back and forth back to eight so 3 is the cylinder behind number 1 and 4 is behind number 2 and so on.
Once all that was straight, she fired right of with some adjustments and timing. I also run rotella oil in it with a break in additive for the first 500 miles. After that. New rotella oil. Rotella has the zinc additive that old motors like. Newer oils will cause your engine to wear out faster. And plugs, my engine runs best on simple champion plugs gapped correctly.
I really want to thank my Dad (Kool66) we put in long long hours for four days straight. 4 days at 18hrs and a half day to finish this. It's been a long time since him and I have been able to wrench on a car together since i moved to LA. This car has become a member of our family for many different reasons. Him and I drove old Route 66 in it a few years back and now we've customized it and brought new life into it together. We also had help from my future father in law who detailed parts for us, my Dads life long friend Charlie who Machined up the spacer and helped us pull the old motor, and George "Kingfish" who toughed out some long days pulling and installing the new motor and trans. I have a lot of great people in my life and I very fortunate.
I'm now putting on the 500 break in miles and then my daughter and I are driving her back to LA (leaving wed morning) down Route 66. A vacation and a history lesson.
Thanks everyone that was interested in this story and maybe we'll p*** each other down the road.
Here's the lastest pics.
All the best,






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Here's a question? Does anyone have a correct part number for front shocks for a 63 Buick riviera? I have been to the auto parts store 3 times returning the wrong shocks. The shocks we ordered online where also wrong. The shocks they sent and the ones they keep giving me are incorrect. They will fit most GM cars But, NOT a 63 riviera. I know Buick changed things during the production year in 63 and I was wondering if anyone else had this problem? And figured out the correct shock? The problem has been the bolt spread of the forks at the bottom shock mount. Not wide enough and my Riv has larger bolts that won't fit in the slots. They will fit my old mans Vette but, not my Riv. Any help would be highly appreciated.
Also, any HAMBER's along Route 66... My daughter and I are headed back to my home in LA in the Riv. I have a lot of faith in the car but, if something happened, could ya spread the word to keep an eye out just incase we might need a hand. Thank you guys


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I just put a new set of Monroe's on my 64. Part number 5759. They bolted up just fine, but maybe your 63 is different? 5759 has 3/8" open slots with 3-3/16" bolt spread.

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Thanks Matt. I believe I'll be good than. I ordered KYB's that cross reference that Monroe number so they should be right now. But, anyone out there going to get shocks... Take these numbers with you or use them online because it seems some auto parts stores and online stores have some misinformation.
Monroe #5759
KYB# 343127
thanks again Matt


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I take it that the 65 transmission is a SP400, which is the switch pitch 400. How do you like the switch pitch feature? Nice work!

 

The KYB number is incorrect, so stretch that number.


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I love it! jolles transmission shop did a great job rebuilding it for me with a new converter.


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Off to search for the right shocks


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I read on the ROA forum that the KYB shocks did not fit properly, and KYB told them they would need to be modified to work. That's why I went with the Monroe's. Some recommend the drop shocks from Jamco, but I've heard their customer service is sketchy. It would be nice to find a part number for those, to be able to cross reference...

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That's what I need. Unfortunately, no one has any in southeast Michigan apparently. Haha


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Scratch I ment


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NAPA should be able to get those Monroe's. NAPA Shocks are repackaged Monroe's. Same PN too.

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So our friend (riviera Dan) has has been supplying parts for us has a brand new set on a 65 parts car. One of many that he has and the shocks on these cars are all the same. And thank you Matt for the measurements.
Anyone trying to buy KYB's from your local auto parts store. Double check your numbers. I got the wrong shocks three times. So Monroe's it will be. Also a very good friend of our that works for Rockwell spring told us. Do not use Gabriel shocks. The shafts will start rusting immediately. They are poorly made with cheap metal. We also had an issue with U-joints when we had the driveshafts rebuilt. The shop we had balance and rebuild the shafts recommended NOT using the (federated auto parts) U-joints. They felt sticky and some where stuck. They recommended and used ****ER. The only American made U-joints company today. Also, if anyone is trying to rebuild a 65 driveshaft on your own. There is a Spring loaded ball that goes in the knuckle of one of the joints, do not get MOOG part# 603. It is wrong and does not have the correct spring


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Ok. Correct KYB heavy duty shock #3192961

Thanks Riviera Dan. He a wealth of knowledge and very reasonable on prices and has piles of parts.


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I have a feeling that part number is obsolete. No results found...

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If I find some more Matt, I'll let ya know. Bilstiens are the best but, I don't have 100 bucks a shock to plunk down right now


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Well, that's the end of that story. The Riv runs and drives great. Got close to 500 breaking miles and changed the fluids. Checked all the bells and whistles and my daughter and I start our trip down Route 66 at around 4:30am
We'll post pictures along the way.


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You'll almost be home when you get near my place but if you have any needs in western Arizona I'd be glad to lend a hand. I take it you have a laptop or something similar; give me a PM for contact info. if you need to. Be safe,
Steve

 

Thanks guys! I appreciate it. We'll be taking 94 to 69 and then 70 to st Louis and picking up the road from there. Avoiding Chicago traffic. I'll update as we go. Leaving in a bit.


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Have a safe trip and post up lots of pics

 

Motorin


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Looks like you made it to SO-ILL. Not bad. How's she runnin?

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I enjoyed the post for the build/rebuld and other info now hopefully you are enjoying some of the fruits of your labor.

 

Runnin great!


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