proportional vavle

which way should you turn the proportional valve for more brake to the rear
clockwise the brake pedal gets softer and anticlockwise the pedal gets harder
is this right

 

No its not right.

 

Mine has a semi-circle arrow that says open on one end and close on the other. Since it's mounted in the rear line close would close the fluid off and open would allow more in.

 

This is a good read for anyone that wants to play with their adjustable "proportioning" valve so they have a good understanding of exactly what they are adjusting . . .

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml

 

They are setup so they only cut the flow by 50% at the most I believe.

 

I actualy removed mine when I replaced my master cylinder a couple months ago. The master has a 70-30 front to rear proportioning from the factory. It works great without it but had the same problem as you with it.

 

Iv'e got a corvette master and servo with the combination vavle on it does this do the same

 

yes, you shouldn't need another proportioning valve

 

what is the problem?

 

the brakes dont feel great the more I open the vavle the harder the pedal gets and feels like there is less braking to the front

 

Most valves are setup not to reduce more than 50 percent.....the average setting is about 70 to 30.......valve working the same as water valve..clockwise to reduce pressure......

 

Proportioning valves operate by allowing full master cylinder pressure to the rears until the "crack", "split" or "knee" is reached, at which time the rear pressure is reduced to a percentage of the front, commonly .27, or 27%. An adjustable prop valve allows the knee to be raised or lowered from about 100 psi to around 1000 psi. Turning the knob clockwise increases the rear pressure by raising the knee, or crack point.

 

This water spigot valve is the most overrated part going on your street car. In most applications the best place to install this in on your work bench. Totally useless unless you have a severe miss match of brake parts. If you are having brake issues the first thing to do is remove that POS. The next is to supply the information on what you have for front and rear brake cylinders. Much of braking problems can be attributed to mismatch of master cylinder bore size to brake cylinder size, if you are having an issue that you need help on repost with the specifics of your system and you will get a better response to help diagonse your brake issue.

 

If you close the vavle thats clockwise do you get more or less rear braking

 

Diddo!
And maybe this does not apply to this problem BUT having a 6 or 7 to one pedal ratio means nothing if you don't have enough rod movement....................

 

the brake set up is camero front end and 10 bolt rear

 

Yes Dick thank you! I have been saying the same thing for 10 years on here. Most folks, even those with working sytems, have no clue what their bore sizes are. And I hate to say many dont't want to learn. Years back Donzie and myself had a book auction, it included the Wagner brake Catalog. It was met with lukewarm success. Guys just didn't know how important that book can be!

 

That means NOTHING, therin lies the problem. Depending on year,model,engine spec the manufacturers have different MC and WC bore sizes.

 

required info to diagnose or design a brake system: caliper size, wheel cylinder size, pedal ratio, master cylinder bore. pedal ratio and or master cylinder size may have to be changed to match the system. stop more important than go.

 

That's exactly what I did, I knew the year and make of both front and rear brake systems. I went online and found they both used a one inch bore stock and I knew the pedal was a 7-1 ratio. I even crawled underneath the car while my helper depressed the pedal and I measured the stroke to make sure it was right too.
Now my car is a bit different than most with equal shoe size front to back and weight being 80 lbs off the perfect 50/50 front to rear ratio.

 

That needs to be said again. And again.