Technical Protecting restored parts during restoration

I've been working on my project now for a few years, some of the parts I originally cleaned up and restored now look pretty shabby from all the dust and debris floating around in the garage. I'm looking for some advice on how to keep restored parts looking good during the restoration process once they're installed back on the car. Also any advice on the best types of paints / finishes for suspension and drivetrain parts (types of paint, brands, clear coat or not, etc).

Thanks

 

Keep them in the spare bedroom, until the car is ready to have them installed. Usually that is after you've finished all the dirty work in the shop.

Suspension parts finish...hmmm.....we have no idea what the car is, or what you expect it to be when you're done, etc. I'm usually content with black spray can for things like that. Some guys prefer powder coat, some guys give it the complete primer/surfacer/base coat/clear coat finish.

 

Thanks Jim - some I can box up and store but others (axles, trans, engine, frame) aren't practical so I'm looking to protect them in-place. I've heard that wrapping in plastic or paper will dull the finish - but that might be better than what I've got now...

 

put a bedsheet on them first...then wrap.

If the shop has big temperature swings (not well insulated), then keeping moisture out is important.

But yeah, see about getting this stuff on wheels, so you can roll it into the house. If the parts looks nice enough, they should go in the living room.

 

Small painted parts I wrap in kraft or paint mask paper, bubble wrap and it goes into a marked box on the shelf. Suspension pieces on my Ford, I waited shortly before the installation and painted them. I use VHT chassis & roll cage matte finish black. I'm not building a show car so this works for me. Been driving the car daily for 1.5 years and it holds up.

I've had more than a few parts in my living room too... all painted and clean or new. The Muncie box, placed a piece of cardboard under it.

 

Bags, boxes, etc. and / or in another location. I might be good to store them with the little baggies you have saved and labeled long ago that hold the matching sets of fasteners, gaskets, replacement parts, too. Gary

 

There's a virtual treasure trove of "precious" under my pool table to make Smeagol's eyes pop out...further.

 

Cover and wrap as Jim said. I have stored plenty in the house too.Soon there will be a 40 front clip all painted in the house as well. Had my 57 FI unit in the family room for a good while when the car was being built. Wife has no issue as long as the parts are clean.

 

They make 2 gallon zip lock bags. Most stores don't stock them but my local Target does.

Charlie Stephens

 

Nails in the rafters in the attic are good to hang finished parts from. Under the bed if the wife's shoe collection is small. Bob

 

Buy a roll of rosin paper (reddish paper for construction) and a roll of bubble wrap. Rosin paper is good stuff, wrap them up.... you can put bows on the packages and have a party when its time to assemble.

Suspension, gallon of chassis black, your choice, much tougher than rattle can. $100- $150 and youll have some left over. Tcp global has chassis black, satin, gloss, eurethane, enamel. I like their stuff.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-Paint/Restoration-Shop-1904/

Enamel with hardener is a good wearing tough paint, been used for years, urethane is a little more durable but has additional chemical risks especially if shooting at a residence. Ill do a quick spray of enamel at my home garage and air it out, no urethane at the house.

Quart of gloss and flat black valspar tractor enamel or rustoleum mixed with valspar hardener is a decent underbody paint still tougher than rattle can. It may react with real automotive paint so only put it where you want it. A harbor freight hvlp will shoot chassis paint just fine.

 

I "protected" one of the finished garnish moldings of my Model A so well that when it came time to install it I had no idea where it was. How it ended up among the Smurf collection of my youngest daughter -who had moved away from home 10 years before-is still something I have not fully worked out. Make a list of what you are storing and where it is!

 

Plastic tubs or totes, they seal well with lids. For smalls, deli cup with lids too. A sleeve of each might set ya back $12-15 and you'll have em for years. Essentially do the obvious, pack em and seal em up. A little plastic on the tote before you snap the lid on, and FWIW I truly despise ziploc bags. False sense of security, they go brittle fast, I get irritated every time a cars comes to me "bagged up". Deli cups are solvent proof too. Lacquer thinner will not soften em up. I get mine at Gordon's Food Service.

 

I never had any trouble with ziplock bags on a project that I'm actually working on. But if they sit for too long (years instead of months), yeah, they're trouble! so finish your project on time.

 

I agree with plastic tubs and bags, and be fanatical about labeling and always putting it all in the same pace. I usually put in a safe place that I immediately forget about.

 

i stored mine in the spare bedrooms......... be careful wrapping freshly painted parts in plastic. any solvents, still coming out of the paint, trapped by the plastic may ruin the surface.
goodwill , salvation army have lots of sheets/fabric /blankets for wrapping stuff up, then they can be covered with a tarp

 

Amen on the plastic. Had a set of garnishes painted and after drying and buffing he wrapped them in bubble wrap. The plastic fouled up the paint and couldn't be buffed out--had to repaint. Also bought a 40 with new glass that ahd been wrapped in bubble wrap for years. Made spots all over the glass and couldn't see it until it was in the sun. Took it out and to my glass guy and he tried to polish it out. Had to get new glass.