I'd have to agree, although I like the one with the br*** straps, post 32, as well. I'd guess if you call it a puke tank, you're not going to get very far into "crafting" anything.If you like an old can that's fine with me,build what you like. Running it into your driveway is just stupid-you trying to kill of the neighborhood dogs or something?
I'm gonna use a polished stainless tank on my"A"roadster and I'd like to set it up as a coolant recovery tank. Nobody has answered question asked by a previous post, ie: Will the suction created when the coolant cools down pull the contents of the tank back into the radiator upon cooling if the tank is located below the radiator cap? Say down at the frame rail? All the cars I've had in the past with a coolant recovery system had the tank mounted on an inner fender panel much higher in relation to the top tank of the radiator. Kinda hard to do that on a fenderless roadster with no hood sides. Dave
For a proper recovery tank I'm guessing you will have to have the lid seal and a hose going down into the bottom of the container? What about when you go from a car like mine, a 1966 that was origially made with just a hose that squirts onto the ground to a recovery tank? I'm also guessing there is a difference in the radiator cap to allow for the recovery action to work? Maybe a different pressure? Thanks for any help. Sorry if this is a silly question. But hey at least I'm not *****ing or whining. I have been guilty of that in the past here and I felt like a *** when I reread what I had wrote.
I don't have a picture of it, but several years ago, I made a pretty cool looking one for a buddy's 'NHRA-legal stocker' race car, using an old, 60's vintagemilitary surplus aluminum, 'canteen'. water bottle. I inverted it so the cap faced down and made a bracket to bolt it to the rad support by tig-weldeing a piece of 3/16 aluminum plate to the canteen body. Then I drilled a hole in the 'top' (actually what was originally the canteen bottom) and tig-welded in an aluminum. 90-degree -2 AN fitting to attach a short length of braded hose from the canteen to the overflow ****** on the rad. A nice fearure of military canteens - the cap is attached to the canteen by a short length of chain, so you didn't ever have to worry about misplacing.it or having the cap mysteriously grow legs and walk off on you when youre thrashing in the pits between rounds!. All in all, it cost about 5 bucks in total to build, weighed practically nothing, and in my opinion anyway looked pretty slick! Mart3406 =================================
The cap you are running should be fine. All the fluid is going to do is transfer to the can and then get drawn back into the radiator. if you look at the one I referenced, if it fills up enough, it still just goes out onto the ground.
Thats cool and I admire those that have the cars and ability to get their cars featured. Mine has actually been in a couple but not featured just an actual photo with some info about it. I like his car very much and would most likely like him also. But I think he should like others cars as well whether its a RR or not. I would like for him to look in my album and see if he thinks mine is a RR or not. I dont think so but.....
Well, it does have a rat peeking out from the dash,so I gues you want it to be a rat rod,right?. Now, if you change the rat for a Smurf,I'd just find it cute. Or maybe Elmo?
I'm not gonna say this is incorrect, but IIRC, years ago when I installed a coolant recovery system on a DD '66 Mustang that had just a puke hose as OEM that I had to replace the radiator cap. Seems like I remember that the original allowed air to bleed in when the system cooled down, and if the system had lost any coolant during oeration that the vacuum created was bled off by allowing the cap to vent under va***. This relaced the lost coolant with air s as to be able to build pressure again on next drive when the system heated up. To **** coolant out of a tank and back into the system on coodown, that vacuum created has to be held in the system so that it can pull coolant out of the tank and back into the system. So I'm just gonna say this needs a bit more research. Dave
MY NAME IS RATRODDER34 I BUILT A CAR BUT PLEASE DONOT CALL IT A RAT/ROD??? used an old army canteen in 1965
I guess if I was HOTRODDER34 everything would be good? I thought this thread was about Puke cans anyway. I guess your car with a straight axle makes it a g***er? (which I like by the way)
axle did not make it a g***er what makes it a g***er is it was built in 1965to1967....only to go fast i think your car looks well built/fun to drive/''.............'' lets all go back to 4wide racing.....
I like 4 wide racing also and g***ers....matter a fact I am building a 62 Falcon g***er right now and might need some info from you.
Here's mine. It's made from a piece of electrical conduit with ends welded in. The inlet is a siphon tube so it is a recovery system. It looks nice but painted black it's not the first thing you notice. Works good too.
I've used a spent fire extinguisher bottle on my '31 A.The smaller sized ones are fairly compact but still have the capacity needed.When you blast off the red paint there's nice aluminum there.The top piece with the nozzle can be removed and they have a thread in cap with an o-ring.Just drill/tap for fitting and tube to go in and make sure you put a small vent hole in the top.For homemade **** it looks pretty authentic.
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