I lost the thread on how to wire a start ****on ? I looked and searched ? I'm lost in isolation and can't get up!!
No diagram for ya. But it is simple, you break the 12V (or 6V) to the exciter post for the solenoid with the switch. Your battery cable still runs to the proper post on the solenoid.
I'm sure somebody out there has started a car from under the hood by using a screwdriver to connect the big pole (battery cable) and the little pole on the solenoid.(Other wires.) When my key got so worn that it wouldn't work in the column, (OTGT), I ran a hot wire to a ****on and then to that small terminal. I'm not recommending/ suggesting/ endorsing/ guaranteeing that method, but it has worked for me for... '93, 2003, 2013... 37 years.
single pole starter ****on? ford ran them for a few years; some call them the "lunge" ****on. if you forget to push in the clutch pedal and the trans is in gear, the car will lunge!
LOL I think nearly all standard transmission cars and trucks worked a lot like that. Just some had a more robust starter. That old 6 cylinder Ford starter wired 12V made almost as much torque as the flathead V8 that was in the car.
The car had a switch on the clutch pedal so it wouldn't start without the pedal in. I think the reason I took it out was so the new ignition switch would work.
It depends on if you have a one wire stater ****on or a two wire starter ****on. The one wire starter ****on grounds the terminal to the mounting hole, completing the circuit to the starter relay that needs a ground to work. The two wire starter ****on is just a momentary switch the connects the two terminals to complete the circuit to the starter relay that needs 12 volts to excite. So... it depends on what starter ****on and relay you have, as they are wired differently. Bones