Push or pull electric fuel pump?

Are you talking about the high performance pump? Won't I need a regulator with this type?

 

nice clean install looks like 90 might be leaking a little could be pullin air if it is

 

They come in different pressures, but they are all designed for carbs, when I can get in the garage, I have a chart showing the specs for each one,

 

If you're talking about mine, it was minor seepage. It's an older photo from about 1-1/2 years ago. It was tightened right after the picture was taken.

 

Just in case someone else comes across this older thread....
The filter before the electric pump should be steel (or sintered bronze etc), the one up by the carb should be the paper one...

Remember:
Suck steel, push paper....

 

This is what I was going to suggest. I have recently found out about certain grain filters and most are better after the pump. If your tank has a "Sock" over the feedline before it leaves the tank, i've been told most of the time this is sufficient enough for the pump. After the pump, you still need a filter. All stock in tank pumps don't have a "filter" installed, just a "sock"

 

Thanks guys! I changed the location of the pump. Now it's on the frame, in front of the rear axle. They recommend it to be installed within 2-3 ft of the tank, which is impossible for my car (BIG,LOOOONG car,lol!), so it is placed 4 ft. from the tank,. I put a steel filter before the pump, and changed the wire's gauge from 16ga to 12 ga.
Everything looks fine...for now.

 

Throw away all your holley / Mallory pumps and install a Walbro FRB reciprocating pump.
They're reasonably priced, and still 100% USA made.

The US coast guard have rated them, and they can pump refrigerant around on a Reefer container.
And most importantly they can run dry for a few hours without damage.

On my road race car I'll be using a Walbro FRB to continually recirculate fuel in a surge tank, and a Walbro EFI pump for the injectors.

 

I just thought I would mention, electric pumps wont burn up from running dry for short periods of time, but will hurt the pumps ability to push. The motor will run but the pump wont push much fuel....

What burns up a pump in most cases is improper wiring. and excessive heat. If you don't have a great ground, this will cause a problem, and if you don't have a big enough gauged wire, this will cause a excessive draw in volts because not enough amps. Kinda like runnin and engine lean.....

I read through the posts and didn't see this mentioned, if it was sorry for the redundancy....

The pump should be at or below fuel level or it will always loose prime

 

I have a low pressure Carter pump with about 18" of fuel line from tank to pump. It's noisy regardless of how it's mounted,,even with rubber washers, rubber grommets,, my engine has no hole for mechanical pump,,the mounting holes are there but the block has no hole for the pump finger..

 

Whenever I have used an electric FP,I have always used 10ga wire to supply the power to a relay and 10ga to the pump from the relay.Might be massive overkill,BUT never had one die yet.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

It's always a good practice to run a hard line or rubber hose between the tank and pump that is rated for sucion. This will provent it from collapsing.

 

Most elecs are pushers, as stated.... and they do require "gravity feeding....so mount them no higher than the tank bottom.

4TTRUK

 

Agreed. If Facets are good enough for airplanes and Porsches, they're good enough for me. The only drawback is the noise they make. They're better if you use rubber mounts.