Customs Question about correcting dry spray.

First time painting a car. There ended up being some small areas of dry spray. I'm wondering if you can use a gray ultra fine scuff pad to smooth it out. The paint is a single stage urethane (Hot Rod Flatz).


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Not enough overlap? Too much pressure?

 

Could be both. I checked, checked, and rechecked my spray pattern. Tried to make sure I did a 50% overlap, shot at a 90 degree angle, everything. So many things it could be. I'm just hoping I can smooth it out without repainting. Hoping someone here knows if the scuff pad will work.


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The HR Flatz is pretty forgiving. I would just smooth out the bad area and re-shoot. I had a large bug back stroking thru my fresh painted hood. I let it dry for about 30 minutes, lightly wet sanded that area with soapy water and re-shot with a detail gun. Blended right in with no additional work.

 

Scotch brite pads don't cut, they just kind of follow contours and scratch. Im not too familiar with fixing flat paint jobs but if you want to get rid of something you usually need to cut it with sand paper.

 

What's this stuff all down the sides ?

 

What type of paint did you use, two pot mix, enamel, lacquer???
Dry spray,orange peel can be caused by a few conditions, the paint not wet enough to flow/flatten out, or the surrounding air is too drying, the paint has not been laid on thick enough.
If its two pot, or enamel you will have to let it harden right off over a few days, if it's a lacquer you usually can work it within a few hours.
I have had this problem, and to overcome it, I got a rubbing block (rubber or cork) some 1000 grit wet and dry, a bucket of water with dish wash soap added (to allow the paper to slide) and start rubbing..
Finishing off with a compound and polish..
I think you will find that will rescue the paint..
As for the marks on the guard, bit hard to see from the pic. Are they raised bubbles? (could be moisture spots) or like a shallow crater (possibly oil/silicon)
If water give them a rub with your hand, they will 'pop' if so, and again give them a wet and dry as well to get rid of the edges..
If they are silicon/oil it will need blocking back and preparing all over again..

 

The answer to your question is no you cannot use a Scotch-Brite pad. The dry spray has created a rough texture and would need to be smoothed with sandpaper. Not sure how you spot that in, but you may have to respray those panels that have the dry spots.

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The "bubbles" in the pic are water droplets. I had just washed it to prep for another coat. Not the issue. The dry spray was after that. I reshot the car today after smoothing it out with 1000 grit. Still had dry spray, although not as much. Just trying to see if a scuff pad would work because I'm just trying to knock of the rough texture in spots. Thanks for the info gentlemen. I guess I'll be shooting it again.


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It's just water. I snapped this after washing it so I could do another coat.


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did you spray it there in the driveway? if it was done there some of the surfaces may have been too hot from the sun. what temp reducer did you use. you may need a slower reducer.

 

More overlap would not hurt. I paint for a living and I usually push it to a 75% overlap. Sand out your bad spots in 600 grit wet, and spray those panels again.

 

^^^^X2^^^^

 

I would switch to slow reducer. I had same issue shooting that paint. Did not seem to matter how wet I laid it down I still got dry spray. Due to numerous problems I repainted my hood 7 times.

 

I agree with jazzi.In the summer time here in East when its hot. I have to use a slower reducer. I hope it works out for you.Nice car too. Bruce.

 

It gets so hot in my shop in the summer that the paint will dry in the air before it gets to the metal.
We only paint early in the morning or very late at night in the summer.

 

I might run out to the paint shop tomorrow and get slow reducer. It's supposed to be in the mid to upper 80's here the next few days. Right when I hoped to paint. Did the slow reducer work for you?


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