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Question for C9

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FORD FAN, Sep 21, 2003.

  1. FORD FAN
    Joined: Feb 17, 2003
    Posts: 247

    FORD FAN
    Member

    I read your response to someones post on RRT and you mentioned a 32 top being used on your 31 roadster. I'm also planning on using deuce upper stancheons on my 31 roadster on 32 rails. Would you please elaborate on what modifications need to be made so this top will fit? I have an opportunity to buy a 32 top from a guy and took several measurements off his deuce. (BTW this guy has a bitchin channelled roadster he thinks was originally built about 1958 in California.) The 31 top mounting tabs appear to be actually 1 inch wider apart than the 32???I always thought the 30-31 Model A was narrower.The other measurements seem similar though the W/S may be a different width also. You have both 31 and 32 so I'm sure you've had the opportunity to trial fit the top.
    Any advice appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Don
     
  2. zonkola
    Joined: Nov 29, 2002
    Posts: 567

    zonkola
    Member
    from NorCal

  3. Thank you very much Mr. Zonkola.

    I suppose you're wondering where your residual check is....
     
  4. zonkola
    Joined: Nov 29, 2002
    Posts: 567

    zonkola
    Member
    from NorCal

    I sure am. Especially since I have to lose 30lbs and somehow get better looking each time I take on the role...
     
  5. FORD FAN
    Joined: Feb 17, 2003
    Posts: 247

    FORD FAN
    Member

    Thanks,C9 and Zonkola. I somehow missed that thread.
    I wonder if the stock 2" chopped 32 top is very different than a self-chopped 31 top. Does the deuce top lean forward at the back because the 31 looks like it's almost verticle?The hotrod slant of course is much preferable.I was previosly thinking about getting a 2" chopped 31 W/S from Speedway to use with the deuce upper stanchions. Will the round 31 frame be adaptable to a 32 wood header bow? Guess I could build a square 32 style frame also...save myself some bucks.
    Any comments appreciated.

    Don

     
  6. The A tops are quite different from the Deuce tops.
    The front header and weather proofing are a little different, but I think the Deuce top will still seal ok against the round tubing A windshield frame.
    You need to look at one of each and decide if you think it will work for your round tube windshield frame.

    I like the looks of the rect tubing Deuce frame which is one reason I'm making my own windshield frame for the 31 out of 1/2 x 1" rectangular tubing.
    You can't use the Deuce windshield frame due to the curve of the cowl piece is different from the A's.

    The other main difference is the Deuce top slants forward at the rear ala 33-34 Ford roadster style, but not quite as far.
    This makes a better looking top in my opinion than does the straight up and down A top rear.
    There are no headroom problems and in fact I can wear cowboy hats inside.
    There's also room to install a roll bar and if you do it high enough so that it's protection instead of decoration you can set it up so the snap-out rear window - which you definitely want - will go past the roll bar so it can be snapped up against the top inside.
    Easily done in my car even with the roll bar padding.
    The padding is on my roll bar to pad against the metal window frame rattling.
    Said padding not shown in this pic.

    The snap-out rear window adds a lot to airflow/ventilation capabilities in the summer.
    If you order a top kit from Lebaron-Bonney it will probably come with the snap-out window, but be sure and ask.

    Here's a pic that shows the cut-back style of side window opening, the roll bar, the open back window as well as the oak bows.
    Note that the oak bows can be set higher or lower depending on what you want for looks.
    The trick here is to install the top irons, use masking tape to hold the oak bows in place and run strips of masking tape from deck to windshield and view the car from the side to get an idea of how the top will look.
    Might check it for personal fit as well, just don't get your hair caught in the masking tape.
    I'm a six footer with 32" inseam if that helps.

    The other style side window opening is called "Gypsy Style" I believe and the difference is the lower part of the top on the sides goes all the way along the quarter panel top edge to the door juncture.
    It's cut at an angle, but doesn't have as good a view to the side as the style opening I have.

    Since the oak bows are height-adjustable, you can bring the rear one forward a bit by making it lower than the one shown in the pic as well as perhaps slanting that one piece of the top iron forward

    That would give it more of a 33-34 slant which looks pretty good on the Deuces.
    You don't have to go to far forward to accomplish this either.
    The rear window install can be sorta critical if you're running a roll bar.
    The wrong place and your rear view mirror vision is blocked.
    Lebaron-Bonney will install the rear window, but it's easy to do at home, but do make a point to take a lot of care in doing so.
    There are quite a few #8 machine screws holding inner and outer frame together.
    Don't cut the top material until all the screws and window are installed.

    As far as the window goes, L-B can supply a safety glass one.
    I have one, but it's too heavy.
    Use a Polycarbonate plastic like Lexan for the window.
    It will remain scratchless for a long time as it's tough stuff.
    I have windwings made out of the stuff, probably 4 years old and they're as clear and unscratched as the day they were installed.

    If it would help I can pop some close-up pics of the juncture between top front and windshield frame or any other area you wish to see.

     

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