Question for POR-15 users

I'm about to POR-15 the bottom of my car. I do have a few questions so I don't mess it up. You are supposed to do two thin coats. Do you let the first coat dry completely before you put the second coat on or just dry to the point that your finger drags but doesn't come off on your hands? Also part of my pans are not rusty so I'm going to use brush on Marine epoxy on them. Can C paint over the POR-15 with the epoxy also or do I need the Tie Coat that they sell?

Thanks,
Todd

 

Let it dry to the finger drag test. Any longer, the secong coat won't stick as well. I'd also suggest doing the entire pan wiht one product. Not too sure if the epoxy will stick, might just need to use tie coat.
I will give some warning wiht POR15-If you spray it, you absolutly HAVE to use a respirator, preferrably a fresh air type, though a high quality charcoal filter type will do. The minimum requirement for a respirator is listed on the can. I know from personal experience what it'll do if you don't use a respirator. I did a cab corner on my truck, figured "Ah, it's just a little panel. I don't need to break out the respirator for this little bit.". WRONG!!! I was sick for 3 days. Still hack and wheese sometimes. If you do spray, be carefull!!

 

WARNING>>>>>
do a search on here for this product ASAP. This was posted a few months back. Many people have negative feedback and they have followed the directions to a T....like me.
Even if it appears to go well, after a few months it just LETS GO...
The surface has to be rusty for this stuff to work. Good luck.

S

 

Thanks for the replys. I am only doing the rusted portions with the POR-15. I will use the epoxy on the rest. I quess it is not worth taking a chance to topcoat the Por15 with the epoxy. after all it is the bottom of the car and I just want it sealed and protected.

Todd

 

I used it on my frame which is exposed & i wasn't happy with it at all, your better off saving your money & using egular ol' Rustoleum.'Like nocturnal said "it just lets go" mine flaked off, some stuck, but i wasn't happy.
On the other hand there headerpaint is great!!lol
JimV

 

I used it on the trailer hitch on my van and it's held up well. Brushed it on, DO NOT get the stuff on your skin, nothing removes it.

 

I have heard people say that por is the worst stuff ever but I have used it on a few different projects and have had nothin but very good luck. The first thing was a '67 chevelle frame that was done over five years ago and it still looks new to this day.

 

POR-15 is great stuff if it's applied properly. It needs an etched surface to adhere. Rust is a natural etch, but you do have to remove the loose stuff, like with a wire brush. Sandblasting will give a good etch, or you can use thier Metal Ready, but follow the instructions. If you are going to top coat POR-15 you must do it while the first coat is tacky to insure adhession. If at all possible brush the POR-15 on. It's self leveling and will look good with a brush. If you spray it, only use a fresh air respirator...this is nasty stuff and can harm you.

 

Also, anything that's exposed has to be topcoated. If it isn't, it tends to turn chalky in appearance. It isn't supposed to diminish its properties, just its apperance, but I have seen cases where it will peel off if exposed to UV.

 

Make sure you place a piece of wax paper on top of the can before installing the lid. It will be permantly stuck if you dont, I used it and liked it. I will not use it again though. It will not come off any exposed skin, nothing removes it and will have to wear off.

 

The safety stuff is BIG with this stuff. If it dries on your skin, no big deal, just wear it for a week or so. Be careful if you take a leak.....NOTHING WILL TAKE IT OFF-which leads to the important thing-if it gets in your lungs, it NEVER goes away. Really bad. And no, I didn't get on my willy.

 

Mine has been on my car for bout 3 years. Pressure washed and use metal brush to clean. Painted on with brush and looks sprayed on. Best stuff! I put it on my innerfenders, underbody, gas tank. Underneath had some surface rust and some of it was the old red factory primer.

 

Wax paper works as a lid gasket, but I think I've found a better way. Use a "cream can" opener to punch a hole in the top of the can. Pour out the amount you are going to use in a disposable container and use that to dip your brush in. When you're finished pouring, cover the hole in the can with a fresh piece of duct tape. Use a new piece of duct tape each time you pour from the can and it will last years. If you remove the entire lid a few times, enough air gets in to cause the top layer of the POR to turn hard.

jp

 

I've used Por-15 for just over 12 years. And have had very good luck with it. The surface has to be grease/oil free, as with most paints the prep work and following the instructions are very important.

Also Por offers a thinner/cleaner that will take it off of your hands, it is mostly Naptha thinner. ONLY BEFORE IT DRIES.... But latex gloves are a must...

I use a sheet metal screw with a rubber gasket ( like the ones used on steel siding) to seal it, I put one in the lid and one in the bottom just above the bottom band. I only take the screw out of the lid when it will not come out of the bottom, This keeps out the moist air that will cause it to set up.

 

I also have used the stuff for years and several of my O/T cars are completely painted underneath.

The quart can is good for one thing only, if you're doing an entire car in one day. Plan on using 5 brushing containers and a bunch of brushes. No way I'm ever spraying this stuff. First, it's airborne death. Second, it's permanent airborne speckles for everything. It never comes off.

Personally, prefer the little 6 packs. Ditch the brush when the can runs out. More expensive for a large project, but zero age worries and very neat and convenient. I just don't buy quarts anymore.

If you paint it over good steel, it needs something to bite into. Like work the surface with 120 or 80 grit 2 inch grinding disc. The reason it sticks so good (including skin) is capillary action of wicking into anything. So you've got to break the skin of smooth metal or paint before coating.

Rust should be wire brushed, sanded, or ground, my favorite 2 inch grinder discs come into play here too. The paint can only soak in so far, so you've got to get agressive with the rust and get to the bottom layer. If you open up pinholes, simple fibergl*** cloth with 3 coats of POR is a good fix.

It's all in your prep. I'll typically spend one evening doing a complete undercar degreasing. Another 2 or 3 evenings with a grinder, s****er, carb cleaner on a rag, etc. Another evening for the marine wash. Another evening to etch with metal ready. Drying for 48 hours with fans. A full day to paint. Another afternoon to touch up the areas you missed (you will miss areas), or deep areas that you can't reach til the first coat dries.

It's an ordeal. But when I get under my car that was done 3 years ago, has 30K miles, including 3 winters everyday- I can wipe it with a soapy rag and it is gloss black. Poor man's powdercoat.

Now I have done poor-man's undercar restos for years with degreasing and rattle can black. But the POR just stays cleaner. Suspect the smooth skin that it forms doesn't hold dirt very well. Once you get it cleaned up and painted, it'll stay suprisingly clean even with daily use.