Would there be any problem with opening up the stud holes in the head by a 1/16''? Just so the heads would slide on and off easier. This on a 59a eng Thanks, jim
Shouldn't be a problem the washers would still allow you to clamp it. I may only go .03125 (1/32) if it were me but I am a goof ball.
Common mill job was .010 but I am not sure that it netted a full point. That would have to be a question for one of those fellas that has actually crunched the numbers.
You may want to add dowel pins to accurately locate the heads. Then you can open up the holes for plenty of clearance on the studs.
Hmmmmn never thought of that. I used to know an old flathead racer that used tapered nuts for head nuts. I wonder if that is why? I always thought that he just grabbed what was in the shop. Look now you got me second guessing myself. LOL
You might check with some of the guys over on the Ford Barn. Old Ron and others have plenty of good info on flathead head theory.
It was once upon a time common practice to drill the holes in the heads out to a 1/2". Stock & aluminum. Also was common to mill stock heads .060 without any problems. Politically correct people now days will say it can't be done as it will upset the universe.
Problem is, you don't know how many times they have been cut before over the years Best to figure out valve clearance first, before telling the shop "take off..."
Have ask the same ? on the barn. No response. Folks are having problems with model a head. I don't think it would cause any problems. Heads have not been cut. Was just wondering how much a rise in comp I would get. Now to find some one to do it.
Lots of things to look at. When you mill the head you reduce the amount of air-fuel mixture that can flow from the intake valve to the cylinder. Relieving the block will increase flow and lower compression. The type of piston you use will affect compression and how much clearance will be needed. Same with cam lift. Has to be a package deal. My $.02. Pete
Aftermarket heads especially have had a problem lately with the bolts holes being a little too large and sloppy. I had a set of Edmunds 8BA heads that would move significantly on the block before the bolts were tightened. What I did is use my drill press to drill two of the holes towards the center of the head between the end cylinder pairs to exactly 1/2". I then purchased a length of 1/2" OD, 7/16" ID aluminum tubing and cut lengths from it about 1/16 less than the thickness of the head at the bolt holes I had chosen. I then tapped them into the drilled out holes. While not as good as using dowels, this tightens the heads up on the block so they would not move. It worked well for me. (If you look in the "Early V8" section of the barn, you can probably find the thread I did on this about a year ago.)
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