I have a set of fenders that I coated with 2k sealer. It wasn't a perfect job so I had to sand some of it down. Now there are a few spots no bigger than a dime that the metal shows. So...is there a 1K rattle can sealer that I can touch up these spots with that I could spray single stage urethane over or does it have to be more 2k sealer?
I don't know the answer. But I had the same issue last summer while painting my truck. A few small sand troughs to bare metal. I was not going to take the chance with a rattle can on my paint job, so I shot it with DTM catalyzed primer, lightly sanded and got to putting paint on. Quality paint costs far too much to risk the entire job to a can with a marble in it.
Yes and no Some guys love the 1k etch for stuff like this. Others will tell ya why risk a paint job over a 1k product. Sealer? Urethane or epoxy. Is there an issue using the original 2k?
The sealer was Transtar, I think thats urethane, isn't it? The issue with using it again is that I used it all and would have to buy more. If a rattle can sealer would work, it would save me some money and I am really a cheap bast....
Probably be ok. I’d let the rattle can stuff dry very well I guess it depends on expectations. I wouldn’t on a high end job I’ve done it on small stuff. No issues so far I’ve also seen small bare metal spots painted over
If you were local I would donate the primer and catalyst. I just don't know enough about the chemistry to be applying catalyzed paints over rattle can primers, seems too "hot" to me. I would rather spend $50 in a quart of new primer than risk $7 on a rattle can. But that is me. My biggest mistake in building cars is letting my wife know how much I spend and cutting corners to save a buck.
Couple of spots wouldn't concern me then. I keep an Axalta sealer that's ready to spray, think I pay $35 a quart for it, pour what I need in the gun and go for it. One wet coat covers awesome. But if you've got a couple of small spots where you broke through, I wouldn't be concerned about shooting my topcoat over it.
Being in a pro shop with materials can spoil ya. From a cost standpoint, mixing up a small amount of 2k sealer is probably cheaper than buying a rattle can. When ya read tech sheets you’ll see things like a product is ok over bare steel as long as it’s X small Where it can bite ya is coverage. Some colors don’t cover well and those spots can get ya.
I have been using the Transtar 2K Euro Classic DTM primer (7371) and am very happy with the product, for its high build properties and easy sanding. I noticed recently that they do offer a version in rattle cans in grey, red or black. If you want to contact them and ask questions you can call them at 800 8242843 or email www.tat-co.com. It would be handy to have for any small areas of concern before the finish paint is applied.
Thanks for all the replies. The spots in question are actually not even dime size. Just some dots on the edge where I wasn't careful . That 2k aerosol is about the same price I paid for a quart. I think I will risk using a 1k spot on it. If it messes up, all I have to do is do it all over again....no biggie.
Not saying this is the way to go but I had a good friend that repainted his entire truck. Don't know the brand (nason I think) but he primed the entire truck then on a Friday night he went to sanding it, he ended up breaking thru several places on the passenger door, well no primer left and Monday the soonest he could get it. He started looking thru the shop and found a spray bomb of dupli-color hi build primer. He figured what the hell and painted the entire door with it. Put a heat lamp on it and left for the night. Came back Saturday night and turned the heat lamp off. Came in Sunday night and wet sanded the whole truck. Monday morning painted the truck. Had it 7 yrs before he sold it, never could see any difference in that door or the rest of the truck. And that truck went thru Fields, dirt roads, swollen creeks etc. Never missed a hunting season in it, duck, quail, turkey, deer or pheasant. I was blown away it held up so well. Two yrs later he did it again with a bed side on a truck, he owned it several yrs after and I've owned it now for about 7 yrs and honestly I don't remember which side has the dupli-color primer on it because there is no noticeable difference between both sides.... ...
^^the product being prepped and able to dry correctly is key I don’t care home many Ks it has or how much it cost
There's a big difference in the way we do a $15k paint job and a "that'll work" paint job lol. I do shit on my cars that I'd never do on a customer car, because my broke ass can't afford me
When I have spots like that or little issues that need a quick small primer shot, I use aerosol flexible primer surfacer. It dries fast, sands nice and has some moderate filling ability. It also has good solvent holdout ability which makes it a good "sealer" for those little emergencies you have right before you are ready to paint. It also seems to be compatible with almost all finishes (so far). https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39133-Fl...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932713215319&psc=1
I'm with you. I find myself doing a lot of things (car, house, etc.) because I'm the best I can afford.
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