Question for those of you with coated headers

On my big block, the header tube is about 3/8 to 1/2 from the starter. They are Jet-Hot coated. Does the coating really make the headers run cooler? Will this be enough clearance, or should I just go ahead and get a mini starter?

I guess what I want to know is, does this expensive shiny stuff I payed extra for really keep them from nuking the starter?

 

The coated headers still get very HOT. Plan on a mini starter or a heat shield between the starter and pipes, especially as close as yours are together.

 

What Abomb said, and, expect the shiny coating to turn grayish.
Look at the header in my post of engines dressed,
i have shorty headers and have not had starter problems, yet.

The starter is going on its second year and about 10,000 miles.

It gets very hot

 

yep both above correct! my buddy was stupid and didnt believe me that they get just as hot so i told him to touch it! needless to say he touched it and was wrong! Mine turnd gray but i used NEVER-DULL polish or MOTHERS aluminum polish and it shined them right back up. But i also had a set that were a little worse off it still shined them up but not as much.

 

Coated headers will really make a lean condition evident. Thats usually when they grey out.

 

I have a set of coated headers on my flathead and they run close to my starter. I have had no problems with starting (6V) even in the hot summer months. Mine still look great after two years.

 

Here's a front shot. The tube is so close that I can barely squeeze my index finger between it and the starter.

 

I ran an GT Mustang FE390 in a 59 Ranchero with the Mustang tubing headers - aftermarket headers.
The primary tube were wrapped very tight around the starter due to the tight engine compartment when the FE was in the Mustang.
Never had a problem, ran it that way for a long time.

My 32 has the primaries wrapped pretty tight around the 455 Buicks starter - not as close as the Mustang since the Mustang had all the tubes very close to the starter.
The Buick starter in the roadster has one primary almost touching on the front corner of the starter and the rest of the tubes are a ways back.
Important thing here is the primaries go down and past the starter and are not wrapped around like the Mustang was.

Thought I had a pic, but can't find it. (If I can I'll post it later.)
A couple of things that help here are the stock Buick sheet metal starter heat guard.
The other thing is the Ford solenoid under the seat which allows a higher battery voltage to reach the GM starter solenoid than does the standard GM setup with the long wire run.

Even hot, the car lights off with just a tap of the key most times.
Granted, the MSD helps a lot here, but having a strong starter with good voltage is what really does the job.

The roadster starter has never had a heat problem.
Even within the tight confines of the 32's engine comp't.

You can get an idea of how tight by visiting the home-made tool post.
There'll be a four part pic over there in a bit that shows the Buick engine in the 32.
I suspect things are about the same for the BBC and BBF engines in the same style chassis.

 

from behind looking forward.

 

I would DEFINITELY go with a mini starter. Youll cook that full size in no time (even if it doesn't totally***** out on you you will ALWAYS have hot start problems). How much compression does your motor have??? I have a CSI ultralight starter on my car and I love it. It's a 11.6:1 406, and that little starter cranks it over like if you took the plugs out!!!

 

Found the pic.

Doesn't show as much as I thought it would, but the chrome plated starter heat shield is visible.
The headers curve under the starter and that's where they're closest.

If you run the GM HD starter I don't think you'll have too much trouble.
Especially with the Ford remote solenoid setup.
The mini-starters are great and do a good job, but they are expensive.
I'd give the stock starter a try before springing for the mini.