Technical Question on 327 motor and 4 speed Muncie for c20 truck

Others may disagree, but it does not need discs, unless towing heavy loads on hills.

I worked exclusively 10 years doing 60-66 trucks for others. Put a simple small booster on the stock master, or if you are lousy at maintaining a vehicle, then do a booster with dual master. The stock drums work fine if properly redone and in specs. It will put you right through the windshield if you aren't careful on the first roadtest. That's due to the pedal ratio for manual, that now is power ***ist. It takes a few moments to get used to the light touch needed, to stop the truck

 

Thanks that is good to know!!

 

Always a nice day, when you're "made" in an 8 foot bed.

 

Truck looked alright and the guy got it from New Mexico for $2500. It idled rough and he said the carb may need to be cleaned but it had some push when we drove and he stepped on the pedal. Engine is leaking a little and brakes might be sticking. Rust didn't look super bad and try roof looked intact without holes.

I'm considering it. For sure I'll need to do carb work and brake work. The pedal was going low and he said he needs to see if it needs more fluid.

It's a high revving 327 he said came from a race car according to the previous owner.


Here are some photos. Any thoughts?

 

Also it's a c20

 

My '64 panel is still stock drum (6 lug), all I did was replace the master with a dual unit from '67. Stops great without a booster.

 

Here's a vid. The guy said he can trailer it down for me too. I'm thinking $2500 delivered to me and I'll replace the carb and mess with the brakes.

 

Brakes are easy to fix, make sure the motor/trans/rearend are in good shape and your good. I would say for the stock dash you want the gas gauge to work at least, you can run add on gauges for the rest. It looks like a Holley on an aluminum manifold and an oversized alternator pulley. If you get it for cheap enough go for it, remember it's an old car/truck it WILL need work at some point and regular maintenance. Looks like you might need a rubber mat/plywood in the bed to lay back there with splinters. Also remember here in California the registration is based on the weight for commercial and the c20 is more (not sure how much though).

 

Man that is going to **** some gas and be loud......I hate turbo/flowmaster type mufflers, I'm a good old gl*** pack guy. I hear/see headers, those are always fun on a beater. If you get tired of the constant gasket replacement or the drone of the pipes you can find some stock manifolds and get the mufflers redone in the future.

It sounds like it might have a vacuum leak.

*edit* I hit reload and seen the rest of the pics.

 

Does your state have collector/antique plates? Here in CT, we do, and it costs the same for a 10-wheeler as a VW bug if it qualifies for age

and there are no restrictions "here", as to how little you can drive them, but you cannot do any commercial paid hauling. Some say they have heard you can't carry anything in the bed, but I've never heard of anyone getting h***led

.

 

There's a guy on craigslist down there (San Diego or south area) selling parts, parting out 60-66 trucks. I might be going down there for a 1/4 panel.

 

We do have antique plates but they have restrictions on where and when you can drive them. I'm not really sure how much more a C20 would be from a C10, but it's food for thought.

At least the tags are paid, just make sure he has the ***le and it matches the truck.

 

Man that 4 spd is a nugget. It also looks like it's setup for towing (hitch and wiring).

 

Yea I agree! It was so loud inside. I like the gl*** pack sound better like on my 53 Chevy

 

Is that a good thing? Maybe some day I can get a small boat.

 

I forgot how much bigger they are then the small 3 spd of the same vintage. Now you can rent a trailer to get more parts .

 

Does it ride ok, it looks like someone heated the rear coils to lower it.

 

A C-30 is a one ton truck, everything is heavy duty.

 

It's a C20 with C30 badges or fenders.

 

They didn't do anything else to the body yet they changed out the badges? We don't need no stinkin badges!

 

The C20 looks good to me, I had a couple of them. I had a '65 C30 as well. The C30 was rear leaf springs with a stack of helper springs, which made it a 1.25 ton.

 

The previous owner of his Chevy did nothin but blow smoke up his a$$ and sounds like this truck has all the same problematic systems he started out with on his Chevy, exhaust, carb & brakes, just to name a few.

 

It drove ok. Pedal went close to the floor but I already know the brakes need work. The motor wanted to shut off at idle unless you have it gas.

It was burning a little oil probably from the valve covers.

 

Hmmmm I'm thinking buy it for $2500 and put $1k into it. Am I being realistic? It will get a cheap spray job and do the bed with a liner.

 

I live on an incline. Will I have issues ? I don't know if it has parking brake etc.

 

Got to have a good parking brake with a manual transmission. Most parts are available even for the brake on the back of the SM420.

 

My two cents.
Save your money and look for something better, and as has been already said; spread your net wider in your search. This thing will nickle and dime you, and I mean a million nickles and dimes.
I have NEVER had a budget set where it didn't mysteriously double itself.

 

I am thinking that in the back of my head. What would be a realistic price to pay for something better in a further inland location? I don't have the tools or resources to pull a motor/trans out or read end.

I would be ok with it nickel and diming me if it were slower because I'd be enjoying the truck without spending much upfront and if I stop enjoying it I will sell it quickly even at a little loss. If I spend closer to $6k or even more, it will probably still need work and I may lose more when reselling it.

 

The problem with a purchase like this is those nickles and dimes turn into $100 bills quickly. And not having much for tools will force you to pay a professional to do any major issues that WILL come up. I don't want to sound like a "dream squasher" but something that someone said earlier is true for many sellers, that is only believe half what they tell you. Also learn the signs of what's not being said, you will have to learn this on your own.
Try not to show any emotional attachment to vehicles you are looking at, an experienced seller will pick up on that and play you.
A funny (but true), statement I heard once really applies here I think.
"Do you know how to end up with a small fortune in a car, you start with a large fortune".

 

Yea I know you make some great points. This would be a very low mileage truck perhaps 100 mi a month tops since I live two miles from places I want to take it.

I wonder how much the truck is worth just for the frame and body alone. If a transmission , rear end, or suspension issue came up I wonder how much I can unload it for. If I pay $2500 and put $1000 to $1500 in the next 1-2 years and sell it for $2000 to $2500 if something bad happens id be happy with the outcome if I had some fun times with it.

I know I'm going to lose some amount of money going in to this in exchange for some memories. My roommate also wants to help me work on the truck because it reminds her of growing up with her dad. She was named Holly because her dad liked Holley carbs. Part of the fun will be working on the truck with her so instead of blowing money on wine and movies and **** some of that would count towards car parts instead