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Projects Question on 60s drag racing rear suspension

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dynaflash_8, Jul 2, 2024.

  1. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,038

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    Hello all.

    I'm currently putting together a 63 galaxie box top drag car. Aiming for a 1960s vibe, similar to what the SEGA guys are doing. Powered by a 414 fe, 4 speed, and 9 inch. I've already done the big block springs in the front along with the holman - moody style eccentric eliminator and 90/10 shocks.

    I'm not quite sure what to do with the rear. I have some new 5 leaf springs from general springs along with poly bushings. Also plan on running a set of ansen ground grabber traction bars and some 50/50 shocks.

    Am I on the right track? Tires will be the 29.5x15 towel city slicks.

    Not looking to set the world on fire, just a nasty street/strip car to have fun at test and tunes and some vintage races.
     
  2. That's a pretty good basic checklist. Nothing exotic but it's proven to work, easy to set-up and dial-in. I was similarly equipped back then and literally was never beat off the starting line. One minor difference was, I used air shocks with individual Schrader valves in the trunk so I could get the slicks to dig equally. (Battery in the right side of the trunk.)
    I pretty much owned my class at the strip....... except for the occasional opponent who knew how to build strong a engine, which I didn't know much about at that time. I had to win with a good launch because they were always catching up at the quarter. :eek:
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2024
  3. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,947

    jaracer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I seem to remember the factory drag race Fords having a pinion snubber.
     
    Just Gary and hrm2k like this.
  4. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 3,586

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    You're trying to promote weight transfer onto the rear wheels , so you want the front to lift. Soft suspension promotes weight transfer and stiff suspension prevents weight transfer.

    Throw out the Big Block front springs and install 6 cylinder springs [or SBF rated] BUT try and get them "stretched" so they have a taller static height to maintain normal ride height.
    Keep the 90/10 shocks. The purpose is to get the front soft like an adult on a kids "pogo stick" but control the compression with the shocks.

    On the rear leave the stock rear springs but ADD and extra 1/2 leaf [or two] from the axle spring pad to behind the front spring eye [and clamp them]
    This ^^^ will control spring wrap and forward thrust but be soft enough to allow the rear to compress from weight transfer.
    Use the best rear shocks allowed for in the regulations

    You need as much mechanical leverage off the line
    A 4000lb car with 400hp should be capable of a 12.5 sec ET at 108 mph
    So at 108 mph through the traps with 29.5" tyres you need a 5.2:1 Rear End to be at 6400 RPM

    Up the engine by 50hp should be 12.0 at 112 mph for a 4000lb car
    With the same rear end it is only pulling 6600 rpm

    Gear it down with a spare diff head/spool and put decent 35 spline axles in it [if allowed to]
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2024
    rod1, seb fontana and hrm2k like this.

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