I have a new wiring harness I am putting in the '37 Plymouth truck and I've asked some questions about it in my other thread. However, I am sort of "all over the place" with different things there. So figured I'd narrow the ignition issue down here. I am having trouble getting my 70 Olds Steering column ignition switch figured out. Speedway (who makes the harness) shows one way to wire the connectors for the ignition switch but then I see another source, AAW, that shows something a little different. Can anyone help confirm which is correct? (the difference is where the starter and ignition terminals are located). Speedway Instructions: AAW instructions: (has starter ignition swapped when compared to Speedway instructions)
Personally, I would trust AAW over Speedway. I use AAW kits almost exclusively and find their directions quite good.
Wouldn’t An ohmmeter be a good investment at the moment? I might buy a flashlight holder from speedway but I am not going to trust my car burning down to them. you can likely still obtain an olds service manual that would have a GM wiring schematic. I have one but mine is 1968 and the switch was still on the dash so no help there.
I knew I would get a couple of you good guys to chime in. Thank you. You know, right after I posted this, I went out and got my home-made power probe (a 12v trailer battery with some wires and connectors on the end) and my multi-meter and went through a functionality test with the new ignition switch. Should come as no surprise that the Speedway Motors instructions were wrong. They have the "Starter" and the "Ignition" switched. Plus the tech folks indicted I could run a ground to the ignition switch. In two locations. Pretty sure that just grounded it right out when I hit start and blew a couple of sections of the ATO connectors inside the harness. (I forgot that key info when I posed this here). I had already ordered an ATO fuse 7 way connector to fix it. I am going to do a "write up" with some details and let Speedway techs know of the issue. Also will expect them to pay for the connectors (they are in a kit that is about $35.00) Not the most money, but its the principle. I will post a diagram of the harness later. Thanks fellas, for you comments and info.
Onemansjunk, thank you. I was able to label the one I used LS309 similarly and have not put it back on the column.
Took a while, but I finally found it. This might help even more. Thanks for your thanks. Kind words help us all.
I was going to mention this, but you've already posted this. Be mindful of the tilt/non-tilt switches.
Thanks fellas, I have it figured out. I appreciate your help. Once I was able to "bench test" with my 12v trailer battery, wires/clips and multimeter; moving the switch from position to position I was able to confirm which wires go where. And yes, its a tilt column, the difference is which side the mounting tab is on. Here is the drawing I made of this after verifying the movement and voltage at each position.
Another question. I left the ignition in the "on" run position for about an hour with the car not running. I came back and the alternator was pretty hot to the touch. Not where I couldn't touch it, but hot. I started the car right away and all was fine. Is it normal for the GM alternator, with an external regulator to get hot if left in the engine on position while the car is not running? Thanks
Your ignition power is "on" when the key is in the "on" position. Everything the powered by ignition 1 is receiving power. After an hour, I would expect everything that is powered to be getting hot to the touch. Back in the old days, that was one of the primary reasons ignition points got fried, and was the reason the auto companies added the "accessories power" to the ignition switch, so the people could turn the key towards the accessory side of the switch and listen to the radio with out burning up the points.
gene-k, thanks for your response. I do understand that power is flowing to all the ignition hot components when the key is "on". (In addition to those powered via 12v Batt). I am real familiar with the ignition switch positions based on other discussion in the thread. Your point about "points" is a good one. I remember hearing that years ago. Digging a little deeper, I wonder what would cause the alternator to get hot, specifically. When the ignition is "on", there is one "ignition on" wire to the alternator. It is considered the "exciter" wire. I have that going to position 4 on the voltage regulator, then to the alternator. Is that where the voltage would be moving through to the alternator? The other points where the ignition wires are is the starter and the the HEI distributor....so what, specifically, is making the alternator hot if one carelessly leaves the ignition on (like I did)?
Power (current) is exciting the windings, causing them to magnetize. Current flows, but the alt doesn't spin, so no air flow. Stuff gets hot, battery drains, and hopefully no damage happened. Power anything and there will be some heat. Even an LED light will get warm after an hour. Connect your power probe to power and ground. Hold the bulb in your hand. That should show you the effect of electricity flow. It will be the same for anything that is powered.
RodStRace, thanks for your response. I can understand. Seems that with the key forward (in ignition on, or run) the current must flow to the alternator from the voltage regulator (through the "exciter" wire) even if the engine isn't running. Doesn't seem like it go hot enough to hurt anything.
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