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Questions about a 1935 59AB

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 50mercfan, Apr 7, 2009.

  1. Need some advice fellas. I've got a 1935 Ford Phaeton in the shop for some repair and upgrading. I've never laid a wrench on a flathead, so, help me out, please.

    1.12V upgrade. I'm going convert the stock generator to 12v. I know to change the bulbs ect. but what about the voltage regulator? If i don't change to pertronics what about the distributor? can i just install a ballast resistor? anything else?

    2. Pertronics? where to get a kit?

    3. It's got the crab style distributor. tips on removal and installation?

    The goal is to leave everything stock looking as possible.

    Also, the steering box is loose. the top bolt won't line up with the whole in the frame bracket. anyone seen this before?
     
  2. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    youll need a 12V voltage regulator, the way i do it is find an early sixties Ford with the gen and regulator intact..and use those, the gen will fit the early gen nose piece, and probably end plate too.
    12V coil needed too.

    I wouldnt go pertronix (im biased ,one left me stranded in the desert, and the $400 tow bill hurt.) Im running an electronic ignition module, remote mounted (under dash) using the original points as a trigger signal.

    steering box sounds wierd...more info please!
     
  3. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    The crab is held on by two bolts, and that's it. Vac connection is built into the front cover...basic distributor used '42-8, crab cap 1942.
    Just remove bolts and it will fall into your hand. Notice the drive tang...it is OFFSET so distributor goes on right. Search timing on here...it is easily done off the car.
    If car is entirel together, I remove the flt distributors for service by just removing the bolts, flipping off the rotor, and leaving the cap hanging on the wires, and slide it out. Once you know the drill, it takes about 30 seconds, and all tuning and static timing are done off the car.
     

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