questions about rebuilding my first automatic!

I have always been leery about auto's. I am re-building my turbo 350 and need some guidance. It will be my first one. I ordered the ****** kit being careful to make sure it had all the bushings, seals, and clutches. Also I ordered a shift improver kit from B&M. Do I soak the clutches? How do I make sure I get all the balls in the right place in the valve body. Lastly how do I get the ****** totally clean on the inside? All help and advice is greatly appreciated, I want to do this once.

Thanks,
Tim

 

I am not a pro but I have rebuilt quite a few over the years, just did one for my 32. Get a good service manual. Shows you where the balls & everything else goes. Use one of those siphon type nozzles that hook up to air hose and ****s up solvent to clean all p***ages etc inside case. I put all pieces in trans fluid as I rebuild. I dont have any specialized tools, hardest part for me getting snap ring off & on in reverse piston in very back of case. I use a GM steering column tool, some allthread & couple large washers. Shifts, who posts on here, is a pro, can get you good deals on parts, good guy!Good luck, if I can do it anyone can.

 

Rockin' thanks for the advice and most of all the encouragement.
Tim

 

I did one last summer. It wasn't bad, I enjoyed it, but I had someone that knew what he was doing watching me. He had me use plenty of brake cleaner to do the final cleaning. There are videos to walk you thru it, I think it would be worth the price.

 

Well I can't say enough about talking to shifts and buying a video from him. This video was so step by step that you would have to TRY to do it wrong. Also if you need any parts for any ****** he can supply them.
The TH350 is really easy to do, but you need something to follow to get it right. PM shifts and get the info.

 

Where do I order the Viedo?
Fred

 

I was at a transmision shop about a year ago. I know nothing about autos, They are the big mystery you know. Places like AAMCO like to keep it that way. There big mistake was having a ****** cut away on display. I checking it out and low and behold, Arn't those the same damn clutches that are in my harley? since I've have rebuilt and tuned my clutch basket on my harley about a million times I don't think a auto would be a big deal.
FS

 

Lakesmod, we have the videos & books in stock. PM me if you want either one. Dave

 

When I first did this, one thing that helped me greatly was systematic layout of parts. I used a full sized pinic table, and laid out the parts as they emerged from front to back in the trans. I think it took three rows...
everything was pointed the same direction, and anything that had to be laid down flat was positioned so UP meant FORWARD. Each ***embly of clutches was laid out the same way so I always knew which of the dozens of similar clutch components went where.
Keep all O rings and sealing rings right where they came from until you are 100% sure you have the right one to replace each.
I laid out the parts in order when I dis***embled, then added new sheets of clean newspaper as I cleaned and ***embled each basic lump.
Threaded rod and a supply of nuts, washers, and sockets got me through most special tool needs.
For a 350, get the book by I think Ron Sessions from HP. The big chain book stores have it, and it has all the detail and advice you can imagine.

 

I have a hole in my workbench that I put the pump into, face down. Then as I take each drum out I can ***emble them on top until all the parts are out of the ******. After the case is clean I then work eack ***embly one at a time and put them back in the case. That way parts from one drum won't get mixed with another. Use Vaselene to stick the thrust washers in place, Vaselene disolves in ****** fluid. Don't use white grease, it will gum things up. I soak the clutches and bands overnight in ****** fluid, that prevents them from damage when starting up. If there was major damage or the clutches were coming apart, it may be worth it to get the converter looked at. The shop I take mine to takes them apart, checks and repairs the insides, and flushes it out afterwards for arounf $60. Don't forget the cooler if there was any damage, it needs to be flushed also. Fill the converter as much as possible when putting it back together, and be ready to dump a lot of fluid in it as soon as the engine is started and it pumps fluid through everything.

 

Man what a cool bunch of gearheads! I so appreciate the advice and all the encouragement. I pm'd Shifts for a video and my parts arrived today. I'll post back as soon as I'm rolling along. I got so excited I replaced a leaky main seal and pan gasket while I was at it! Again you all ROCK!

Tim