Technical Questions on brake/clutch setup I made will it work?

First build for the rpu in my thread in my signature and trying to make everything I can instead of buying it.. Anyway I tacked my brake pedal mount in and tacked the pedals to the bushings.

My question is that as I run the clutch pedal through its cycle it pushes the rod in about and 1/8" from bottoming completely out.

Questioning if that is enough throw to release or work the clutch. I figure there has to be room for fluid I'm just not sure how much.. I didn't figure it needs to bottom clear out.

wanted to make sure before I weld the back pin that goes in the clutch master to the rod I made.

Here is a picture of the setup so far



Any thoughts / advice would be appreciated!!

 

Can't tell from your picture; but both the clutch and brake pushrods need to be adjustable in length when done. Should be set-up so you can get full stroke on the masters, especially the brakes.

 

I cant tell you if your clutch will work as it depends on the cylinder bore sizes and the amount of throw the clutch fork has to travel to operate. Could you connect it and try ? JW

 

Bear in mind that the brake pedal should bottom out in MC before it hits the floor, what ratio did you run on the pedals? I always match the hydraulics from the donor car so they work in unison and are not mismatched, master cylinder and slave cylinder and make everything serviceable for later and build in adjustment.

 

You might want to support the end of the shaft the pedals pivot on. In a panic stop you could push the brake pedal hard enough to bend the shaft.

 

If I remember right I matched the bore sizes. I will double check.. I don't have a line made up yet and like an idiot in a hurry I bolted the trans up just for mockup with no flywheel or clutch...kicking myself now

Pedals are little over 6:1 almost 7:1 master is from a Cherokee and slave is from early Chevy I believe... Was going off of what people said they had used before.. Hard to see in the pic but I threaded the end of the rod toward the pedal for adjustment.

Yeah agree I already drilled and tapped the shaft for a future brace to the x member


Thanks for all the input so far!! Wanted to make sure I was on the right path before making the one for the brakes.

 

To work corectly the clutch master and slave bores need to be very close in size . Chevy PU used a 1-1/8 bore MC and the slave was 1-1/16. That is the usual size relationship. You could have a say 3/4 bore MC and that would use about a 11/16 bore slave. Your pedal ratio sounds about right.

 

THAT'S the part that concerns me the most too. I'm surprised it took a minute for someone to notice.

 

This may give you some ideas. This is how Blundel's Speed & Machine did my clutch/brake system.
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com...ulic_brake_clutch_***embly_1930_ford_model_a/

 

I will double check the bore sizes and post what they are.

I drilled and tapped the shaft as soon as I knew how long it needed to be to fit the pedals I had to cut 3/4" off from the length I originally made it.. It will be braced to a couple spots on the x member

 

Bore size on the master is about .817 and in the slave the bore is 1" both overall throw is 1.5"

I suppose I either need to swap slave cyl or sleeve the slave that I have now...


Has anyone sleeved a cyl themselves? If I go that route I would like to try it myself...

 

Picture with updated finished rods connected and pedal pads welded on.. Bottoms both cyl out just before hitting the floor

 

How about a dual circuit master cylinder?

 

For the concerns of the shaft flexing under hard braking I made up a brace for it this evening as I planned on from the beginning.



Still have to drill the x-member and also the top part of the plate but should do the trick..

Switched out the slave cyl to a speedway slave and pedal push seems to be nice and easy and it releases the clutch pretty easy also..

Only thing is the slave seems to be seeping a little around the fitting to adapt down to the bleeder on top.. It's pipe thread.. Anyone use pipe tape or some sort of sealant in brake lines/fluid?

 

Did you leave room for carpeting and soundproofing before the pedal hits the floor?

 

It has some room between the floor and pedal and the adjustment is all the way in as of right now. So should have room for that yet..

Should just have the floor board which should come up to the top of the recess and then probably running a rubber mat like original.. No sound deadning need in this roadster pickup

 

You don't use thread tape on brake fitting. Oh and that bracket looks good. JW

 

I have a huge distain for hydraulic clutches due to poor quality parts in the aftermarket and the seepage problem that turns into the squirtage problem and ultimately the no clutch problem. I build hot rods for a living and hate it when the customer comes in with a hydraulic clutch.

In my opinion if you have room for a hydraulic clutch then you have room for a mechanical clutch. I have removed at least 5 hydraulic set ups and replaced them with mechanical linkage. SoCal's 32 Ford clutch and bell crank set up is a good starting place when retrofitting.

I don't like to sound negative but that has been my experience with hydraulic clutches.
Jim Ford

 

I got 192,000-miles out of the hydraulic clutch setup in my Jeep. Replaced it, and kept going.

 

I'll try to tighten it a bit more and see if that makes it stop...

I couldn't get it through my head on how to get the bell crank to work and p*** by the brake rod and have everything In line on the pedals with the same ratio..

I figure there are a lot of hydraulics out there working and I shouldn't have much trouble with repairs but I know how aftermarket stuff is.. That's why I am trying to make everything I can at home..

If anyone has a pic of a working bell crank in a model a setup I wouldn't mind seeing it for use in a future build

 

Should work if the master and the slave match. You have an option, make the rod adjustable then if you need more rod you got it.