Are all year models similar in strength? I'm looking at buying a 28-29 model and eventually putting a flathead in front of it. Is it going to tear it up over time? Is it similar in strength to the 8" Ford? If you put slicks on it, it will break, but radials won't kill it if the tires spin?! I will run it, but I don't expect breakneck speeds. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Weakest point on all is axle ends. This area needs to be in good shape and carefully ***embled. '28-32 lack straddle mount, but R&P are otherwise comparable to later ones. Setup of mesh, pinion bearings, overall tightness is important, especially on early ones. R&P are pretty sturdy unless run loose or used with a big engine that has lots of low end torque.
If you plan to use it to peel out from time to time. The banjo, I feel, wouldn't be strong enough for that abuse. Unless of couse you like droppin axles and repairing them. I would go with a ford 9'er for that type of driving. Put you just can't beat the look of the ole banjo.
[ QUOTE ] Weakest point on all is axle ends. This area needs to be in good shape and carefully ***embled. [/ QUOTE ] Had a droning low hum coming from the rear of mine when doing highway speeds last week. Found the axle was loose and the e backing plate moved back and forth about 3/8".(guessing) The nut backed off alright. Apparently not torqued enough during a brake job. <font color="blue">Whats the required torque on this nut???? </font> Tightened this thing up, no slop, she's now back to normal and purrs like a kitten.
Scary tight is about right. Look here: http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/reartorq.htm I read through the V8 Times discussion back then, and that is indeed from Ford Service letters. Even tighter than I'd been doing. The actual spec is probably much newer than Model A, as use of torque wrenches was at least uncommon back then, but all '28-48 threads are the same, I think 5/8-18. Basically, if you can get the hub off without an exhausting fight and a puller tightened way past the point at which you are trembling with fear at the thought of puller fragments going through you head at high speed, it wasn't put together right. Just tighter'nhell isn't quite enough.
[ QUOTE ] Weakest point on all is axle ends. This area needs to be in good shape and carefully ***embled. '28-32 lack straddle mount, but R&P are otherwise comparable to later ones. Setup of mesh, pinion bearings, overall tightness is important, especially on early ones. R&P are pretty sturdy unless run loose or used with a big engine that has lots of low end torque. [/ QUOTE ] Which axle end are we talking about? The one inside the diff or the wheel/brake side? Does anyone offer aftermarket axles? I haven't even looked closely at one, but I copied one of the last threads on ID-ing one for different year models. Are they easy to set up? I've done 8", and handfuls of late model 8.8" rears, they can't be much more difficult than that, right? Thanks, Alec.
[ QUOTE ] The 'V8 Times', Sept/Oct 98 Issue, pages 46 and 48, quotes several Ford Service Letters and later corrections. The final direction on tightening axle nuts reads: "tighten nut 356074-S to 200 to 220 foot pounds; then continue tightening to the next castellation providing final resultant torque does not exceed 275 foot pounds." [/ QUOTE ] Wow! Thanks Bruce! Yes, I would have been concerned about stretching the threads at 275 lbs. I will have to recheck it after my 500 mile trip this weekend. 220 is what I'll shoot for. I wonder how many guys with these rear ends know this.
[ QUOTE ] Which axle end are we talking about? The one inside the diff or the wheel/brake side? Does anyone offer aftermarket axles? [/ QUOTE ] We are talking about the castellated nut at the backing plate brake side. Yes the axle shafts can be bought at aftermarket places like Macs who have the 18 and 24 tooth shafts for around 200.00. Thats why you wont find me tearing up the tires with this axle.
Is it hardened steel for $200? It ought to be. Well, I'm looking at picking one up with a bunch of other stock extras for $100. I suppose that's a good deal, right? Are parts easy to come by? Does anybody make gears for these rearends? Alec.
The site I posted has basic setup info in another thread. carrier setting and ring gear location are set by gaskets (measure the originals as you take stuff apart for reference), Pinion preload is normal stuff, pinion depth was handled by close tolerance original parts--if you get a recently made aftermarket ge****t, you may need to excercise some ingenuity if its not made right on depth. Original parts are usually very easy to get set as they were kept to close tolerance for high production. Parts are pricey, so try to find one that's tight and smooth and has the gear ratio you want.
Sweet. Thanks Bruce - I seem to get a lot of advice from you. By chance, do you have a room for rent? It might just be easier if I moved in. Any houses for sale in your neighborhood? When I read your posts, I think of the Mr. Wilson, Tim Allen's neighbor on home improvement... Thanks again. Alec.
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