Hot Rods Quick Change, Quickchange

I agree with that. Running Winters track is real nice on the street

 

OMG, I couldn't believe how difficult my dirt track car was to just push around on the driveway with a spool. Soft tires, a spool and tire stagger, impossible to move!!!!

 

Same with my drag car. Just asking to see if he has come to that realization yet.

 

just did a thread on a build from start to finish on my qc's thread is mctim64 flathead roadster

 

I ran a spool in my 69 Plymouth on the street for over 5 years, with big sticky tires out back. Yes, it tried to crab a bit when backing out of parking spaces and the front tires cranked hard, but it was a minor thing- made me giggle more than anything else. I wouldn't do a spool for my daily driver, but for a cruising/strip car, it's something i really dont mind putting up with.

I found the pics showing it as received from Frankland's rebuild. Shown in front of my friend's 9 inch for size comparison for those that don't know quickchanges...

One thing to note- the Jones mag bells do not accept the axle tube as deep as the Franklands (by 1/2" each) so plan accordingly when measuring out your flange to flange width.-rick

 

GearhedsQCE,

I went out and measured everything I have, the tubes and axles have about an inch difference.

The long axle that looks stock is 33-5/8" from flange sealing face to tip of axle, the splines start about 3/16" from the end.

The short axle that looks like it has been welded right next to the splines is 32-5/8". The splines have been stripped off about 5/16" from the end and seem to taper, they are rough. I would not use this axle.

If my calculations are correct my set up will be 62-1/8" from WMS to WMS, my drums are behind the hubs.

The distance on my hubs from the flange mounting surface to the wheel mounting surface is 6-3/8". The axle tube sits inside the axle flange surface 1/4".

It will be too wide for my project.

I got my Ruskin/Frankland aluminum drums today, they are very cool. One is not usable so if anyone out there has some they want to sell I would be interested.

Are any of these bearings and seals obtainable at bearing houses?

My hubs had FOMOCO seals in them, I found that interesting.

 

Thanks Shaggy,

I think I may end up using double sliced axles due to width.

I drove through your town earlier this winter, small world.

Going to the Early Bird swap meet?

 

Nah I'm putting the l79, m22 in my daily this weekend, so I wont even have time, and I don't even have anything that I'd trust that far since I'm borrowing a beat to hell old f-250

 

Ago- Just ordered a Winters Track - Glad to hear it's good in your opinion. Would like to hear some more of your experience with it. Does it need a modifier?

 

Yes, all the bearings and seals can be purchased at bearing suppliers. I have found that the rebuild kits from the QC makers are comparable in price to the bearing houses. I can help you with these.

I have found many axle tubes with the original seals in them. I think that the tapered tubes and bells do a very good job of keeping the gear lube away from the outboard bearings. (Not in the right side of a circle track car)

 

Tudor,
No, you don't need a modifier. Winters told me to use Mobil 1, 75-90W gear lube. I have not had any problems in 14,000 miles running the QC. Drained and checked for slivers, NONE. doesn't run hot etc. Just a trouble free set up, little noisy but real cool noise. love it.


Dave

 

I found the pics showing it as received from Frankland's rebuild. Shown in front of my friend's 9 inch for size comparison for those that don't know quickchanges...


These large qcs are big, they look kind of bulky under hot rods, but I will be using this one under a Studebaker coupe anyways. It is what I could get my hands on. I like the idea of using this older unit vs a brand new smaller looking unit. Definitely trade offs.

It is a money pit, it should have a slot in the top for $100 bills.

 

So who is running wide fives on one of these?

My old dirt hubs had 1/2-20 studs with 7/16" shoulders, I just figured they would be 5/8 like the modern hubs. So I figured I would have to run a 15" race wheel, is that what is being done? I plan to run Ford wide fives up front but unsure what to do in the rear.

It will have a mild small block Ford and I originally wanted to run 750-16s on the back before I went to a quick change. I then thought I would end up with a 15" wheel and was trying to figure out what would look good for a tall tire, don't want big meats on back.

Has anyone worked through this issue with good solutions?

 

As far as I know, all the modern wide 5 wheels are drilled for 5/8" studs and the seats are for 45 degree taper. The narrowest I could find for my truck were 8".
I think you will have to get original Ford wide 5 wheels and possibly have them widened. This will give you the proper hole size and lug nut taper. I believe that the widest is around 4 1/2". (could be wrong on this)
Rule of thumb, wheel width should be 1" less than tire cross section + or - 1". So, wheels with 7.50 tires should be 6 1/2 - 7 1/2" wide. I know a lot of people will tell you they have run very wide tires on 4 1/2" wheels but the tire manufacturers do have a recommendation for every size tire.

 

Some of the old ones are too, anyone have the part number for those studs on a frankland hub? most i can find dont have enough knurling

There is an optional/lincoln/truck or whatever wheel that is 5" but it's pretty rare, and it isnt the spoke look. I have 2 and i'm looking to do a set, and it's taken me years to find them. There was an artical on here a bunch of years back about I believe GM commercial wheels in 16x6.5 having the right hoop diameter, the only problem is they arent a standard hoop/center design instead the center is also the front bead of the hoop

 

Seems you were flat out ignored on this thread.
Very nice work, Tim is lucky to have one of your QCs

 

Yes,
Sorry about that, Bone.
That is a fine piece of craftsmanship. I was going to try building my own when I retired. That's going on 5 years now, and I still haven't caught up on my projects enough to start another. But, I do have the pieces waiting in the wings.

Didn't catch the tread address the first time around.

 

Sorry, I still can't find the thread.

 

It's part of Tim's flathead roadster build thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/finally-i-get-my-flathead-powered-car-t-roadster.954035/

 

Bone's work is awesome, I had not been able to get to the thread. There is a lot of passion in each one those.

The only studs I have found so far are at;

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/46420/10002/-1?parentProductId=

I am not sure the knurl is long enough as Shaggy stated. They even say they are for thick Frankland hubs.

I can widen my wheels, I would need to find some old school looking 16s that fit them.

 

I need 23.5" axles cut for my QC. measured from wheel flange to end. My local guy retired and no one locally will cut 12 spline axles. Any suggestions that are close by? I have the axles and just need them splined.

 

Moser Engineering. 2 day turn around, reasonable prices. Tell them Gearhead's Quickchange Exchange recommended them.

 

I want one for my 38...but after I finish the F1 project. Great thread...

 

Thanks Mark for posting that. That address on the side of the case is exactly where these shots were taken, Not many shops are still in their original location. Cook's made that raw casting about 1947. We have 2 un-machined cases/covers. The Halibrand (KS.) shaft is one of the last that Mike made who worked there yrs. back before their re-structuring. As you can tell and Stovebolt pointed out, its about 2 inches shorter on the coupler end, have no idea why, It's just what it is.

Stovebolt took pix of my 32 years ago with Cyclone #16 in it. The 32 runs the stock tank, a 32 Rear X-member from the near dip to the to the rails, In the center of all this is a Model A center X-member tying it all together to clear the Cyclone. I thought I came up with the idea years back, but alas, looking over the Pierson Bros 2d coupe It has a very similar set up .

The drive shaft is 47-1/2" in length splined end to splined end, The coupler goes right on and has no issues. It's been so long since I cut the torque tube that I can't remember perhaps 51"? We've done perhaps 4 of the drive shafts for customers who saw the Cook's/Cyclone unit and all fit as designed.
It's been a long road for me just to get to be able to drive my 32 with a unit installed as I never get a chance to get my stuff done. :/.

I hadn't seen this post before, was actually looking for the post on Mike (Bone31) building that kool kwikie out of a banjo. I like how he built that whole deal and feel he's amazing! Man, That's talent!!!
Normally, I have Paul @ Cook's spline the shafts, but they're pretty busy doing the driveline/rear end stuff for drag racers, low riders, off road stuff and other mfg.'s. I'm working on splining them myself on the Bridgeport, but that 4340 chrome moly is a killer on cutters.

It was good to see this .
CK

 

Just finished putting together my first quickchange. A 201 with 48 ford tubes, 40-48 ( corrected. Thought it was a 3/4 ton unit, thx BD) 28 spline open carrier and big ford axle flanges . I've checked through all of the quick change threads and didn't see anything about how to narrow and align the axle flanges so I made these. 3/8 x7" alum line up plates for 201,301,and frankland/ winters These follow the radius of the QC housings and bolt inbetween axle trumpets and QC centersection
These align the tubes and centerline of the carrier so you can run an alignment bar with collars through the whole assembly provided it's not a spool. Squared edges help too to keep the rear from floppin around.

Bolt the other plate on and install the ends , I had to. Turn em down a little to fit but not much. Fit the slugs in and tighten up the collars and double check everything!
Then turn up your welder and stick em on.
That's it. Like I said this is my first one but I find these fascinating. Much thanks to dennis frings for answering my endless questions and QCE as well for insight. Hopes this helps someone. Jay

 

Any pics of the 3/4 ton 28 spline open carrier, and year of vehicle used?

 

You can also use one of the axle bearings and a special made collar to use the alignment bar for that type of bell work.