I have 2 3/8 thread holes ( for 9/16 socket bolt) that are stripped out completely on my hood on the sliding mount .. kinda looks like flat stock that is threaded ( one on each side) this attaches to the hood hinges.... anyway. the threads were gone.. bare.. I asked around about what was the best way to repair it.. obviously tapping it was what most said.. and nearly everyone of the people I asked said a 7/16 would be the way to go.. I checked my charts for a the drill size and its a U I think it was.. well, I can't find a U drill bit anywhere here... and a guy at a hardware and bolt store said I should be able to run the 7/16 tap into that hole and be fine.. I tried it.. It seems to have worked it was a tight and hard turn all the way through.. but, Im a bit questionable as to if it is in deed ok. I only tapped one hole on each side the other 2 are fine... its the p***engers front bolt and the drivers rear bolt. Thanks appreciate any advice.. and don't shoot.. I'm not a fabricator!
pictures would help alot for us non ford guys, so i have to guess it's a piece of flatbar with the 2 3/8" threaded holes, why can't you make new ones?
I would get a 3/8"-16 or 3/8"-24 Helicoil kit and go that route. Not cheap but not terrible expensive either. That way the bolts remain stock size.
if you tapped it and got nice clean threads for the bolt to get tight enough you should be fine. . its not like you will be opening the hood 20 times a day.
If the new threads allow the bolts to tighten, but you're still uncomfortable then put some Loc***e on them.
Picture of a stripped out hole ? That U drill is damn near a 3/8 drill. 0.368 vs 0.375 with that in mind if your 3/8 bolt wiped the treads out of the hole, and your 3/8 bit is just shy of going into the hole - ok so far ? Then run the 7/16 tap in and call it good. Done this at least a couple hundred times and 1/2 of those without drilling the bugared threads out. Only on low stress or load connections. Want to be technical, should tap it 7/16 fine thread in a thin flat bar but that may be too late if I'm reading correctly.
attached some photos.. hope that helps.. these are after I ran the tap.. and did a test fit with a 7/16 bolt.. it seemed to fit.. but was far too long for me to tighten .. I'll have to make a run to the store. Im not against doing all of my bolts so they are the same.. but, I hope to not be taking my hood off that much.
What you did was good. If you got the 7/16 tap through without braking it and it was tight, you got good threads. Better maybe than what it came with.
You've fixed the problem very well-now quit worrying. As long as that tap went thru and generated a thread, it's all O.K.
Well, I just got back from the store with some new bolts and pulled it tight .. all seems good. Thanks for the re***urance guys. now, I know. Just did not want my hood to fly off. Thanks again guys.
if you choose to do the other two,you will need to drill the threads out of the 3/8" holes.use a 3/8 drill,it would be fine
If it works, leave it! If it strips out again, what I usually do is to drill out the hole to be able to press fit a 3/8 nut into it. Then weld the nut in place, and grind it flush (you're even able to do this with access from 1 side) Now you still have all the same size bolts holding the hood on. AND the the threaded area the bolt goes into is much deeper, therefore, stronger. Sometimes the area being repaired isn't deep enough for a HeliCoil.
This one is fixed, but riv nuts or weld nuts are easy installs in blind holes. Riv nuts are great for thin metal. Weld nuts can accomodate more clamping force, however I've even used riv nuts with sub frame connectors
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