Buy a can of mismatch quality base coat at paint shop. Don't bother with the clear coat. The paint shops still get mismatches even with their high tech mixing systems. Shoot that on. Done it on a daily driver..looks fine and of course easy to spray.
for flipper DD cars that we want to look decent ( brings up the sell value considerably ) we do a ES type paint job with a kit from these guys http://smartshoppersinc.com/autobod..._finish_products-1/start_to_finish_paint_kits, includes all the paint supplies in one kit all you have to do is supply the sanding material . its cheap and quick and the paint isn't bad quality either ..
No-The boards have been welded solid and molded to the sills and quarters-I did leave the reveal from the board to the quarter though
PLEASE GOD DONT USE TRACTOR PAINT OR RUSTOLEUM. If you use that, you might as well buy a GEO STORM with sticker flames and take that to car shows and cruise ins. I can build a gallon of bad *** Polyurethane with hardener that I guarantee will last over 10 years out in the weather with no wax for $145. I rolled the Poly on my press board floor and it slicked out very nice (look up thread "what to do with left over paint"). I can build an automotive grade Enamel for $50, or I can make you a colored Urethane primer but you can really only get pastels for $90/kit with hardener. The more rich the color on primer the harder it will be to sand in the long run. OR if you are not particular on a color, I will sell you some mismatched paint cheap. I would go with the polyurethane, Its as thick as mol***es, flows super nice, and you can throw rocks at the paint and it wont chip. Attached is a picture of a Propane truck with my Polyurethane on there, and If you are familiar with the tanks they are pitted with mulitple imperfections. This truck was done with 4 gallons of Polyurethane, 2 days of prepping and this is the result. One of the slickest tanks I have ever seen. Also below is a pic of a golf cart in base clear no buffing with a $65 cheapy spray gun in the middle of a garage. $65 for the clear kit and $120 gallon for base.
Cheap? Better call Maaco. They usually have a sale on and you can get one painted and out the door for less that 300 dollars.
I'll second this recommendation. I took my 55 down to bare metal (in 1996), and put gray urethane primer on it. A year later I did some bodywork, and got some tinted urethane primer, and sprayed it two tone. It looked ok, or fugly, depending on your point of view...but it looked like that until 2010 when I finally got around to doing the last of the bodywork, and got a friend to paint it with acrylic enamel two tone in the correct original colors. While it was in primer, I put a whole bunch of miles on it, and it was pictured in Hot Rod magazine a few times, and it was generally a lot of fun and low maintenance. I had no issues with rust, and it got to sit outside part of the time, and went on a few trips far away and through lots of rain storms. Maybe I got lucky, or maybe urethane primer is not as porous as some guys seem to think. First primer job, I also did the firewall, dash, and jambs at this time in the final color. Second primer job, a year later (before putting the trim back on) you never know who will be taking pictures After the real paint job. And this is holding up just fine, five years later.
I realize he is selling stuff, his stuff! But paint guru seems to be the way to go if you want to shoot it yourself....I intend to deal with him when my current project is ready for paint....
Thank you!! But I am Sorry I try not to use this site for business, but I see so many people make costly mistakes, and with just a little more money you get such a more superior product. I am not a salesman, I am a real world painter that just happens to know enough about manufacturing coatings to be dangerous. I started as a diy guy myself and I wished I had someone help me along and not waste money on junk over the years. The paint process can really make someone completely lose interest in a project, and it's usually just lack of knowledge. But if anyone has questions about any product line, just ask and I will answer honestly. You don't have to buy from me but at least use my prices to negotiate better deals with your local paint distributor. And if he can't compete give him my card lol.
Been reading this and seems like going astray, by the reading the first post he wants to make car presentable and still be able to do his body work. The only way good to do that , unless you live in a dry climate, is with a tinted sealer. Primer holds too much moisture, and any paint will need to be color matched every time to look right.
I used SW 2k primer. It comes in different colors.... i bought a gallon of gray and a quort of blue. added a little blue until I liked the color. I over reduced it to get it to lay out flat. Obviously i did my body work first them primed with feather fill primer and blocked the car flat before spraying the blue. I finished blocking In 400 grit. the black is SEM trim black.
That's what I used on the car in post 12 above- tinted high fill 2k - ran it that way for 7 years in all kinds of weather - no issues whatsoever - car is smooth and shiny now
A few of us have experience which direction contradicts this statement. Maybe it depends on the type of primer you use? Lacquer primer is porous...urethane 2K primer seems to do a great job of keeping out moisture. And even if the primer is porous, it won't retain moisture, it will just let it in and out as the humidity changes, right?
Is there really any such thing as a temporary paintjob? Whatever you apply is either going to be removed or painted over later. In either of these cases, you're setting yourself up for a lot more labor than the $ saved today, not to mention opening a can of worms regarding layering and adhesion of your final paint product. I'd lay down an epoxy primer or a dedicated sealer and then epoxy primer. There's nothing "unpresentable" about driving a primed car, as a matter of fact I'd prefer primer to a cheap looking paint job. Drive it that way until bodywork and final paint later.
I know you said no spray paint, but if it's a temp job you're just going to be sanding off, that may be your best option. I've opened cans before and sprayed it out of my gun with decent results for a quick temp job. I've done an entire car for $25 and paint matching is easy.
I know it's already been said, but don't use any soft enamels such as farm implement or rustoleum coatings. Save that stuff for frame work. You literally "paint yourself into a corner". Chemical stripping is about the only way to remove it later which isn't that much fun IMO. Just about any true automotive finish, whether primer or bargain catalyzed enamel paint can be easily sealed over later for a real paint job if that's where you end up someday.
Very true! You might be able to pay $25 for paint but you will pay $1,200 to strip it off when your ready to really paint your car. if your paint/primer is not 2K and does not use a hardener DO NOT USE IT on the outside of the car.
I wrapped my old wagon for temporary color (removable) it had original paint and I didn't want to be the one that put a cheap paint job on the would depreciate the value of the car. or be hard to remove. Total cost was $450 in material and a week end in labor
Now THAT is pretty slick... Got more detail on how? Where did you get the material? And how well does it hold up?
They say 5 year warrantee 3M 1080 vehicle wrap. they wrap speed boats and b*** boats so...... I guess its good to go. I have sold the wagon wrapped so not sure???
That vinyl wrap got me thinkin'. Kids these days are using spray-on Plasti-dip as automotive paint. Look it up. Now there's a temporary paint job!
I saw the 56 wagon Smokin Bill did up close--looked great!!! Also saw a 62 Impala recently (wild-Morrison ch***is and Sharihoff nasty big block) done in a wrap as well--looked terrific .
The Jalopy Journal
